Celery Root

Someone recently asked me about my favorite seasonal offering during winter. The ugly duckling of the vegetable bin, celery root, summarily came to mind. It is no surprise that the

knobby, warty, barnacle- like root is overlooked for sexier edibles of wintertime. Visually repugnant it may be, but I still recall my first taste. I was an angsty teen walking through a mall where a restaurant show was happening. Someone handed me a white paper cup with something mushy in it and something crispy on top. I can’t remember the crisp part, but I remember the shazam! moment when I tasted the puree. That entire season I asked every restaurant if they served celery root to no avail. To this day, a taste of celery root brings back the memory of a moment in time that really sparked food adventurism in me.

Celery root or celeriac (sometimes also called knob celery, turnip related celery, or Verona celery) is one of those vegetables you wonder aloud about at the farmers market with “what made the first person eat this?” It is not appetizing to look at. Still underrated in the U.S., it is widely used in Europe and has been since the Middle Ages. It even gets a mention in Homer’s Odyssey as “selinon.” Pretty sure the horses were eating it, but you have to start somewhere.

Celery root is the cousin to carrots, parsley, parsnips and anise- root vegetables that you eat either for their tips or their root. It is developed from the same wild species as stalk celery but it is cultivated for its root, not its stalk. Its flavor tastes like a fusion of celery and parsley and smells similarly. To me the taste is redolent of the earth-soil, but it in delicious way. It is delicious and a hearty non-starch replacement for potatoes. It is also remarkably storable, remaining fresh 1-2 weeks in a refrigerator and longer in a root cellar. I love root cellars. Remember to trim the leaves from the root before storing.

Root cellars are one of my favorite things

Before making its way onto European and Western Asian dinner plates, it was used mainly for medicinal and religious uses. I have read this in many books and descriptions about celery root but have not uncovered which sort of “religious uses” these were, unless aphrodisiacs and crowns of celery root leaves to cure hangovers are religious uses. For this is how the ancient Greeks used it. It is widely revered for its calming and analgesic properties. The Chinese used it to stabilize high blood pressure and much of Europe used it to detoxify the blood and eliminate intestinal parasites.  The jury is out on whether celery root will cure your hangover or your love life, but celery root is extremely low in calories (1/2+ 20 calories), high in fiber, nonfat, and rich in vitamins A, E, & C, Potassium, Phosphorous, and Carotene.

The root can be mashed, boiled, roasted, braised, sautéed, added to thicken soups and stews, sliced for salads, and even French friend. It is as versatile as our beloved potato but ever more nutritious and tasty. Look for firm tubers without lots of discolorations. Smaller roots taste better. Larger roots are woodier and better for long stewing or roasting. Remember to allow for about ¼ of it to be discarded as you peel off the thick outer layer. A knife works better than a vegetable peeler to “peel” the outer layer. Don’t discard those yummy leaves. They have the highest percentage of vitamin c. Use them to flavor soups, sautés, and salads. I have even made a quick pesto of them.


Boiling the chopped root

My favorite way to prepare celery root is with a simple puree. I peel, cut into cubes, and boil the root in half milk & half water for about 20 minutes. Drain, saving some of the liquid, then puree with a hand blender with some of the reserved liquid. Top it with a piece of trout and a few of the leaves.

Celeriac Remoulade is a classic French dish similar to coleslaw where the root is peeled, grated, placed in lemon juice, and dressed in a mustardy mayo. You can even pickle celery root using a simple dilly bean recipe. Hughsli sells a yummy looking celery root-kohlrabi mixture I would love to try. Empire State South here in Atlanta often has a celery root soup with candied hazelnuts that is pretty outstanding. I also used to love the celery root gnocchi from Hector Santiago at the recently closed Pura Vida. Check out this recipe by Hugh Acheson in Food and Wine for Creamy Celery Root Skordalia where he uses celery root in place of traditional potatoes.

 

Photo from  Best Emerging Chefs.com

I really want to make this recipe of Celeriac with Moscatel Grapes, Burnet, and Toasted Hazelnuts from Ollie Dabbous (whose restaurant Dabbous is on my bucket list).

I asked a couple of chef friends their favorite way to prepare and eat celery root.  Nick Melvin of the soon to be Garden District likes to do a celery root remoulade brown butter puree. Zeb Stevenson of The Livingston and Proof & Provision likes to make a celery root gratin. So many possibilities. I am going to try latkes with the celery roots I have on hand or celery root cake. Yes, cake (from Gotham in New York).

ONE. Midtown Kitchen Summer Chef Series

Extremely thrilled for this summer chef series at ONE Midtown Kitchen. Drew Van Leuvan is one of my favorite chefs in Atlanta. When you dine at ONE with Drew you get the best of both worlds. He uses the finest, freshest local product with a sophisticated and creative approach to the ingredients. He takes the simplest ingredient and elevates it to tantalizing. Just this week I had his take on asparagus soup: a cool foam of white asparagus over a layer of creamy warm green asparagus. It was as luscious and delicious as it was stunningly beautiful. Fiddleheads were on the menu as well but I chose scallops with foraged mushrooms and pickled ramps.

This chef series will gather some of Drew's friends and favorite chefs to showcase their skills. Guests will be treated to a 5 course summer feast prepared by that evening’s Chef and Drew. Chef Van Leuvan will prepare an amuse and the first and fifth courses while the Guest Chef will prepare the second, third and fourth courses. All courses will be creatively paired with cocktails, wine or beer courtesy of each Chef. A ticket for a 5 course meal, with beverage pairings, will be $75.00. Pick 3 dinners for $200. Pick 5 dinners for $300. Guests can make reservations through ONE. midtown kitchen at 404-892-4111. Dinner begins at 7 pm. Menu themes for each evening will be posted on onemidtownkitchen.com. Just look at the talent coming:

June 1st-Hugh Acheson of Empire State South, 5&10, The National and Gosford Wine

June 15th- Shaun Doty of Yeah! Burger

June 29th- Bruce Logue of La Pietra Cucina

July 20th- Ford Fry of JCT Kitchenand Bar and No. 246 (coming soon)

August 3rd- Hector Santiago of Pura Vida and Super Pan

August 17th- Drew Belline of No. 246

August 28th- Richard Blais of Flip Burger Boutique (sold out)

August 31- Carvel Grant Gould of Canoe

September 14th- Joshua Hopkins of Abattoir

September 28th- Ron Eyester of Rosebud and The Family Dog

Empire State South Grand Opening

I have been excited for quite some time about the proposed restaurant Empire State South restaurant with chef/partner Hugh Acheson at the helm. I love his style and sensibility when it comes to food and gathering. His respect for the seasons in his approach to local produce prepared simply and pure creates dishes without pretense. It is admirable as well as delicious. I love the juxtaposition, or rather that it does not seem to be a juxtaposition when you are eating his refined comfort food.

When I found out that the Chef de Cuisine was to be Nick Melvin of Parish and formerly The Inn at Serenbe, I was uber excited. Nick is passionate about his craft, about veggies fresh from the garden, trout fresh from local waters, pickling, local, seasonal, whole animal...I could go on and on. He is profoundly passionate about Empire State South and I can't wait to taste what comes from this motivation.

I am ready for the soft opening this weekend and the grand opening next week. I have talked with Nick about the menu (which he elucidates in great detail) and now I can see versions on the website. I took a tour and oh my is it lovely. The dark wood, the milk paint, the dishes, the antique lighting, the kitchen, the garden, the a la Marzocco GB-5 for espresso, the small batch bourbons, the bocce court. It is all so composed and speaks of a vision.

There are already events like the Farm, Fork and Cork dinner benefiting the Southeastern Horticultural Society whose mission it is to build and maintain learning gardens throughout the Southeast. Empire State South is already reaching out, strengthening the southern community and living up to its moniker.



But wait, there's more...


(isn't she lovely?)

I wasn't aware of the boxed lunch menu! You can pick them up or have them delivered. A twelve dollar adorable and yummy lunch in a tiffin. What a fun idea and what a yummy bunch of choices. The tiffins make me smile because I have a pie carrier that I take with me everywhere that looks very similar. My mom had one. My grandmother had one. My friends love to make fun of it at our annual cookie swap UNTIL they see how neatly my cookies are stored and carried away.

You can get a tiffin too. Look at this one from Ten Thousand Villages. Adorable.

Attack of the Killer Tomatoes Part Deux

On Sunday, August 8 I attended the 2nd annual Attack of the Killer Tomato Festival at JCT Kitchen. The atmosphere was filled with positive energy, even in the ticket line. The day was gorgeous. It was hot but what is more cooling and refreshing than a tomato? After chatting with the lovely volunteers from Georgia Organics, I started making my rounds. First stop, Miller Union and tomatoes from Crystal Organics. Steven Satterfield chatted a bit and handed me an heirloom tomato aspic. Aspic? Gross, was my first impression. How wrong was I? This was in my top two dishes I had all afternoon. The aspic had the crisp, clean flavor of tomato broth and each bite of the heirloom tomatoes (yeah green zebras) brought forth a tasty surprise. To compliment it, I had one of Cara Laudino's (also of Miller Union) Electric Boogaloos made with Prairie Organic vodka. I loved the cardamon and muddled yellow tomatoes, simple and perfect.


Next up, Hot and Hot Fish Club's Hot and Hot Tomato Salad with fresh corn, field peas, fried okra, applewood smoked bacon and chive aoli. While he gathered my dish, chef Chris Hastings and I talked about his last Farm to Table and Back dinner at JCT. One bit and I knew this would be my favorite dish. The tomatoes from Yoder farms were simply sublime. The fried pickled okra lingers on my palate.

Around the corner I ran into Hector Santiago of Pura Vida and Super Pan with his steamed coconut blts. Loved every bite! I washed it down with Paul Calvert's La Mancha made with tomatoes from Serenbe Farms. Yum-my! He pureeed roasted heirloom tomatoes with agave syrup and mixed with a shot of tequila. mezcal and basil. Kevin Maxey of Craft/Craftbar handed me a pulled pork lettuce wrap with smoked tomato molasses and heirloom tomato relish with tomatoes from Dillwood farms. Delightful.

Kevin Bragg from Prohibition mixed me up a drink with tomato water and Blue Coat gin. We chatted a bit about the pretty blue bottles and our love for Hendrick's gin until our conversation shifted to how fantastic his concoction was. Seriously, It was dangerous. I could drink it all day. I had a quick stop at Kevin Rathbun's table for a Noring farms shrimp tomato soup dumpling with tomato ponzu and then had a gulp of Souper Jenny's smoked 3 tomato gazpacho. It started to settle in that I would be consuming alot of tomatoes today.

Taqueria Del Sol presented an organic tomato (Serenbe Farms) cruda in habanaro viniagrette on a tostada topped with southwestern crema and a generous dollop of caviar. Savory, light and decadent rolled into one. I strolled over to Ron Eyester who was mixing up Woodland gardens cherry tomatoes with Rosebud mozzarella and anchovies. He gave me a generous cupful and I ate every bite. Standing next to me was the sweet Todd ginsberg from Bocado who had a salad of Adam Herrin's farm heirloom tomatoes, avocado, green goddess dressing, cucumbers and delicious radishes. I really loved this dish for the perfect tomatoes, creamy avocado and crisp radish. It was very put together and Todd was charming to talk with while I sampled.

At Farm 255 I tried a confit blt with tomatoes from FarmsFull Moon . The pork belly was incredible and we had a great chat about my love for farmburger while I noshed with a group. From this I was treated to a grilled cheese keaster from Aria with roof top dried tomatoes from Dillwood farms, applewood smoked bacon and chipotle sauce. I could eat this for every meal. It was savory, hot, melty goodness with so much flavor as the ingredients combined into one. This turned out to be the winning dish for Gerry Klaskala.

On the short walk downstairs I said hi to Eli Kirshstein (who may or may not take over the old Repast space), chatted a bit with Savory Exposure and was greeted with *sigh* air conditioning as I walked in the door. I didn't make it far before getting a great hug and a smile from Hugh Acheson. Have I mentioned how excited I am for the opening of his new restaurant Empire State South? He showed me to his spot with Nick Melvin and tried their Woodland gardens tomatoes with pickled shrimp, field peas and boiled dressing. So very simple and southern and good.

I zigged over to the JCT table and was greeted by Nick Horn's smile AND he and Ford Fry's resplendent Killer Tomato Jelly Donut with bacon mayonaisse. Oh. My. It wasn't something you could take bites of but rather pop in your mouth and wait for the flavor explosion. I crave it now. Whippoorwill Hollow Farm provided the yellow tomatoes for Leon's Full Service's The Golden Ticket. Whew! That was good but strong (and just seeing the name of Leon's makes me crave bacon in a glass). Miles Macwuerrie was a treat to watch at the bar.

There was quite a crowd near Livingston's table but luckily I was able to share with a stranger and enjoy Gary Mennie's Riverview Farms tomato shortcake. Everything was so lovely at every table that I wish i had taken photos but most of the time I was balancing a plate and a glass until I was able to put it in the compost bin. The what? That's right, everything was served in and on compostable dishes/cups. Same goes for the cutlery. Loved it.

Carvel Grant Gould created a warm goat cheese cheesecake with applewood smoked bacon and tomato fig jam from Moore Farm and friends' tomatoes. It was luscious and perfect. I am a big fan of savory desserts and this hit the spot. I headed over to Restaurant Eugene's Tom Cola and tried a swig. It was sweet and good with Prairie vodka, tomatoes from Love is Love farm, lime, allspice, and of course, Coca-Cola. I was delighted to see John Currence of City Grocery in Oxford MS
at a nearby table. His roasted Mortgage-Lifter Tomato Biscuits with bacon rillettes, basil aoli and arugula were out of this world. Read about him in this month's Food and Wine. I want to make this recipe.

I then popped over to Andy Minchow's Holeman & Finch table for a Tom Cat tonic. I was mesmerized watching the mixologists work with tomatoes from WA Hennessey Farm and even more enchanted with the drink. Lovely. After I picked up my drink I chatted with Mike Lata of FIG. We talked about his upcoming Farm To Table and Back dinner at JCT in December. Looks like I will see him twice in one week for that and a jaunt to his Charleston restaurant, one of my all-time favotires. His dish was an heirloom tomato (Crystal Organic) tarte tatin with fromage blanc. The dish was so simple yet so refined. Joe Truex's Watershed table was next with a delicious tomato (Dillwood Farms) pie a la king. "One bite" he said. I listened. It was divine. My mouth was full as I said hello to JCT chef/owner Ford Fry who was having as good a time as the rest of us. I was a bit distracted by Andrew Knowlton of Bon Appetit sitting behind me on a bench. His photos don't do him justice.

La Pietra Cucina prepared a wonderful Panzanella with thai basil and compressed red cabbage with tomatoes from Stoke's Farms. Great flavors. Over by the Pacci table, I talked a moment with Running with Tweezers. She was a big fan of Keira Moritz' heirloom tomato sorbets and ice creams. They were very cute and just the right tasting size in their lil bitty cones.

Before heading back outside, I stopped at Lara Creasy's bar for he Love Apple, Sugar Baby granita. I fell in love and I told her so. Not only was it perfect for such a hot afternoon, but it was so full of tomato flavor. It paired nicely with my heirloom tomato corn dog with brandywine ketchup from chef Linton Hopkins. This delicacy is what i had in my mouth when I ran into Melissa Libby and chatted a bit about how fabulous the event was and how much fun the band was. The Spazmatics are adorable, almost as much as Melissa.

Scott Serpas offered me a shot of garden tomato with pickled shrimp and celery crema. It was yummy, especially the celery crema. Great flavor combo. I was quickly introduced to Brian Stanger of Abattoir and handed his very creative Mason Dixon Sangrita made with tomato juice, chile sauce, and pomegranate juice and tequila. Kevin Gillespie of Woodfire Grill had adorable tomato ice cream sandwiches with tomatoes from Moore Farms and Friends. It was neat to see he and Eli Kirschtein standing next to one another with a gaggle of lady admirers.

I ended my spree of tomato eating with one of the best things there. Anne Quatrano had Hawaiian shaved ice with heirloom tomato herb waters with tomatoes from Summerland Farm. I chose tomato melon for mine and then was told I could add tomato moonshine. "Do it" I said. So, so very good with smoked salt on top. I ate/drank every bit while watching the Spazmatics and took a cookie to go.

Through this adventure with the love apple, I learned that I really like tomatoes prepared in many ways. I only didn't like a few of the dishes. I did miss one, however. 5 Seasons had olive oil fried heirloom tomato ice cream with foccacia crust and lavender infused tomato. Sad to have missed out. Sounds incredible.

The event was so well put together. From the Chefs paired with farms to the band, mixologists and environmental materials used. To top it off, the money raised goes to Georgia Organics. Even Jennifer Popovich Graphic Design, who designed the chef display cards and programs, donated her time and services. Bravo all!

Next year I hope to attend and see much more attention to the farms.

Farm to Table at JCT Kitchen

I jumped at the chance to attend JCT Kitchen's Farm to Table & Back dinner for so many reasons. JCT has a commitment to fresh, seasonal, local ingredients that are whipped up European style with southern flare. The dining room is so very pretty, upscale and down home at the same time. 100% of the proceeds of this dinner were to benefit Georgia Organics, an organization that is trying to integrate healthy, sustainable and local food into the mouths of Georgians. If that is not reason enough, Hugh Acheson, four-time James Beard Best Chef Southeast finalist and chef/partner of 5&10, The National and Gosford Wine in Athens was the guest chef for the evening.

My dinner companion and I were greeted and seated in a cozy candlelit table next to a table with a writer and companion working on a review for a local paper.It was entertaining to talk with them because they had so many food aversions but were still terribly excited by the food. Chef Ford Fry came by to welcome us and thank us for giving to a cause that is near and dear to his heart.
We were given the gorgeous menu reminiscent of the elegantly rustic promo. The table next to us said "ooh pretty!" and talked about the font for a while. Our beautiful taste arrived an we stared. A luscious, plump Brunswick ruby red shrimp nestled in buttermilk dressing with chopped celery, micro greens and UGA caviar left a lingering impression on my palate. I loved my first bit of this sustainable caviar, but the celery was the ingredient that rounded out the dish for me. Such a simple, overlooked ingredient made this dish come alive for me.

Next was She crab soup with sherry and hard boiled egg served with a glass of Frogtown MRV 2006. This rhone blend was softly layered with notes of pear and honeysuckle and perfectly complimented the soup. THE SOUP! I will order she crab soup if ever it is on a menu and I can honestly say this was the best I have ever had. It was so full of sweet crab that I could have eaten most with a fork. This was my favorite moment of the evening.

The second course arrived with a La Craie Vouvray. Coming off of my she crab high I was presented with beets--happy, happy girl. This roasted carrot and beet salad with feta was so simple with pulled together freshness. The cumin vinaigrette gave it added zing and punch. The Loire vouvray was fresh, young and had a minerally crispness; a perfect compliment. The apricot aroma was what I was commenting on just as the evening's chef, Hugh Acheson arrived at our table. His enthusiasm for the evening, the food and the mission was intoxicating. We held his charming company at our table as long as we could. We chatted about our meal and his upcoming venture Empire State South. I am brushing up on my bocce ball for the opening in August. Word on the street is that Parish chef, Nick Melvin will be chef de cuisine. What an amazing duo they will be.

A 2007 Girasol Cabernet arrived to head off our third course. This was a big cab that lusciously delivered toasty oak, cassis, hints of chocolate and lingering cherry notes. It was a pleasant surprise alongside the smothered pork chops over grits with morels and ramps. I like to pair cabernets with pork. Who says pork goes better with a pinot? The pork chops were good. Don't get me wrong, the chops were gorgeous and perfectly seared, but the stars of this dish were the morels and ramps. They admirably highlighted the beneficiary of this dinner, Georgia Organics. Nothing beats fresh seasonal ingredients for sublime taste as well as a connection to the earth.

We finished our meal with a lovely Mrs. Dulls shortcake with a spring fruit compote and whipped cream. Being a transplanted southerner, I had to look up Mrs. Dulls. Henrietta Dull had a popular cooking column in the Atlanta Journal Constitution where she created authentic dishes in a traditional style. She was so popular that her recipes were compiled into a cookbook with menus to boot. She died in 1964 at the age of 100. The AJC said her book was "the standard by which regional cooks have been measured since 1928." Wish I had known all of this while I was enjoying the shortcakes, for I think they would have tasted even better. Our cheers to a great evening came by way of a Castelier cava from Spain. A perfect ending to a perfect dinner.

The next Farm to Table and Back dinner at JCT Kitchen is July 15th with guest chef Chris Hastings of the Hot and Hot Fish Club in Birmingham. I will see you there!

*photos from Melissa Libby

concrete to cauliflower

When I read today's article in the AJC about the new Edible garden at The Atlanta Botanical Garden, my head began humming Joni Mitchell. "They paved paradise and put up a parking lot..." Essentially, the Botanical Garden is a tree museum but this museum took a parking lot and returned it to nature, paradise if you will. Visitors will now be able to see food in it's natural state. We have become so disconnected from our food. If you have ever seen Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution, you have witnessed school-aged children unable to name fruits and vegetables. I'm not talking about rutabagas or durian, but tomatoes. Tomatoes! Kids could not identify tomatoes.

The new garden opens Saturday, May 1. There will be a visitors’ parade across the Canopy Walk, led appropriately by Atlanta’s Seed and Feed Marching Abominable. Who better to usher in the slow food movement at our beloved garden? My membership has expired but I plan to renew it today out of love and respect for a great idea. Soon local chefs with a love and respect for local, sustainable foods will show us the farm to table way, chefs like Linton Hopkins, Kevin Gillespie, Hugh Acheson, Billy Allin, Ann Quatrano, Clifford Harrison, Scott Serpas, Jay Swift, Shane Touhy, Todd Mussman, Ford Fry and Nick Melvin to name a few.

Let's hope schools start making plans for field trips for hands-on learning. First stop, tomatoes.

*field bag can be found on Etsy here.

Farm to Table event at JCT Kitchen

Don't procrastinate finishing your taxes! James Beard finalist Hugh Acheson will be the guest chef at JCT Kitchen on Thursday, April 15th. The menu looks incredible. We already know how fabulous the chef is with regional cuisine and the entire portion of the proceeds goes to Georgia Organics. It's a win-win-win situation. The ambiance of Ford Fry's JCT Kitchen, the innovative comfort food of Hugh Acheson and money going towards sustainability and locally grown foods. I've already booked my table.