Celery Root

Someone recently asked me about my favorite seasonal offering during winter. The ugly duckling of the vegetable bin, celery root, summarily came to mind. It is no surprise that the

knobby, warty, barnacle- like root is overlooked for sexier edibles of wintertime. Visually repugnant it may be, but I still recall my first taste. I was an angsty teen walking through a mall where a restaurant show was happening. Someone handed me a white paper cup with something mushy in it and something crispy on top. I can’t remember the crisp part, but I remember the shazam! moment when I tasted the puree. That entire season I asked every restaurant if they served celery root to no avail. To this day, a taste of celery root brings back the memory of a moment in time that really sparked food adventurism in me.

Celery root or celeriac (sometimes also called knob celery, turnip related celery, or Verona celery) is one of those vegetables you wonder aloud about at the farmers market with “what made the first person eat this?” It is not appetizing to look at. Still underrated in the U.S., it is widely used in Europe and has been since the Middle Ages. It even gets a mention in Homer’s Odyssey as “selinon.” Pretty sure the horses were eating it, but you have to start somewhere.

Celery root is the cousin to carrots, parsley, parsnips and anise- root vegetables that you eat either for their tips or their root. It is developed from the same wild species as stalk celery but it is cultivated for its root, not its stalk. Its flavor tastes like a fusion of celery and parsley and smells similarly. To me the taste is redolent of the earth-soil, but it in delicious way. It is delicious and a hearty non-starch replacement for potatoes. It is also remarkably storable, remaining fresh 1-2 weeks in a refrigerator and longer in a root cellar. I love root cellars. Remember to trim the leaves from the root before storing.

Root cellars are one of my favorite things

Before making its way onto European and Western Asian dinner plates, it was used mainly for medicinal and religious uses. I have read this in many books and descriptions about celery root but have not uncovered which sort of “religious uses” these were, unless aphrodisiacs and crowns of celery root leaves to cure hangovers are religious uses. For this is how the ancient Greeks used it. It is widely revered for its calming and analgesic properties. The Chinese used it to stabilize high blood pressure and much of Europe used it to detoxify the blood and eliminate intestinal parasites.  The jury is out on whether celery root will cure your hangover or your love life, but celery root is extremely low in calories (1/2+ 20 calories), high in fiber, nonfat, and rich in vitamins A, E, & C, Potassium, Phosphorous, and Carotene.

The root can be mashed, boiled, roasted, braised, sautéed, added to thicken soups and stews, sliced for salads, and even French friend. It is as versatile as our beloved potato but ever more nutritious and tasty. Look for firm tubers without lots of discolorations. Smaller roots taste better. Larger roots are woodier and better for long stewing or roasting. Remember to allow for about ¼ of it to be discarded as you peel off the thick outer layer. A knife works better than a vegetable peeler to “peel” the outer layer. Don’t discard those yummy leaves. They have the highest percentage of vitamin c. Use them to flavor soups, sautés, and salads. I have even made a quick pesto of them.


Boiling the chopped root

My favorite way to prepare celery root is with a simple puree. I peel, cut into cubes, and boil the root in half milk & half water for about 20 minutes. Drain, saving some of the liquid, then puree with a hand blender with some of the reserved liquid. Top it with a piece of trout and a few of the leaves.

Celeriac Remoulade is a classic French dish similar to coleslaw where the root is peeled, grated, placed in lemon juice, and dressed in a mustardy mayo. You can even pickle celery root using a simple dilly bean recipe. Hughsli sells a yummy looking celery root-kohlrabi mixture I would love to try. Empire State South here in Atlanta often has a celery root soup with candied hazelnuts that is pretty outstanding. I also used to love the celery root gnocchi from Hector Santiago at the recently closed Pura Vida. Check out this recipe by Hugh Acheson in Food and Wine for Creamy Celery Root Skordalia where he uses celery root in place of traditional potatoes.

 

Photo from  Best Emerging Chefs.com

I really want to make this recipe of Celeriac with Moscatel Grapes, Burnet, and Toasted Hazelnuts from Ollie Dabbous (whose restaurant Dabbous is on my bucket list).

I asked a couple of chef friends their favorite way to prepare and eat celery root.  Nick Melvin of the soon to be Garden District likes to do a celery root remoulade brown butter puree. Zeb Stevenson of The Livingston and Proof & Provision likes to make a celery root gratin. So many possibilities. I am going to try latkes with the celery roots I have on hand or celery root cake. Yes, cake (from Gotham in New York).

Attack of the Killer Tomato Festival

The tomato: seductively red with sensuous curves and flesh bursting with juice. What better gift of summertime to have for a muse? On Sunday July 17,2011 hundreds of fanciers converged at JCT Kitchen to taste and toast the heirloom jewels from local gardens on a dazzling summer day.

I look forward to Attack of the Killer Tomato Festival each year. Along with Field of Greens, it is my favorite gathering of chefs, mixologists, farmers and the food community. Not only is it an homage to the mighty mater but proceeds benefit Georgia Organics, a non profit close to my heart. Sunday's event raised nearly $40,000!

The tomato has come a long way from being banned by the Church of Rome as "the devil's fruit" to being the "benign majesty" it is today. I re-read Pablo Neruda's "Ode to Tomatoes" in preparation for Sunday's fete. In the poem he writes, "at the midpoint of summer, the tomato, star of the earth, recurrent and fertile star..." I thought of that line all day as people discussed the beauty, flavor and totality of the tomato. I wasn't the only one feeling poetic about the tomato.

Aside from a few different chefs and mixologists this year's fest was much the same as last year's festivities. I loved how the bridge was utilized this year to give more space to stations and spread out the crowd. I didn't follow a route on my way. I probably crossed the bridge 4 or 5 times as I flitted about, occasionally stopping to listen to The Spazmatics and Five Bone Rack, composed of chefs Ford Fry, gary Mennie, Jamie Adams, Zeb Stevenson and Justin Brogdon.

I didn't take many photos this year which made the experience all the more enjoyable. I immersed myself in the moment. Besides, I can just look at Savory Exposure's gorgeous photos here.

My first bite came from Chris Neff of Sprig who was inspired by French lore of the tomato's aphrodisiac qualities. Chef Neff filled different heirloom "love apples" from Noring Farms with summer heirloom tomato salad and red snapper ceviche. This was the only station where you could catch festival goers feeding one another their pomme d' amour. This delicate bite made with a watermelon-looking varietal was one of my favorites of the day-gorgeous, delicious, fresh and fun.

And we were off! A roasted tomato galette with bacon horseradish creme fraiche from Jessica Hanners of Souper Jenny, incredible heritage breed pork trotters and sungold tomato salad with guanciale vinaigrette from Matt Palmerlee of Farm 255 and a killer pimento cheese sandwich with sliced tomatoes, pickled green tomato relish and bacon from Farm Burger. It was great fun watching chef Terry Koval toast the bread while we nibbled.

Craig Richards of La Tavola had the most amazing octopus salad with heirloom tomatoes, Thai basil and chili melon with tomatoes from Yoder Family Farm. It was bright, fresh, colorful and the octopus was super soft and tender. Craig explained a Mediterranean tenderizing technique that involves simmering the octopus along with wine corks. Truth or old wives tale; who knows? It works for Craig. The octopus was perfect.

I loved Drew Van Leuvan's dish- a tomato ceviche (Dillwood Farms) with lemon verbena, white chocolate and horseradish granita. Tasting it was one of those rare instances when the flavor combination was something never before experienced. It was graceful and dainty, savory and robust. Pretty sure I grabbed Drew's hand and said "this is so good" to which he replied "I know!" He always surprises and delights me at One Midtown Kitchen. Another I really loved with similar lightness was Empire State South's tomatoes with flowering basil, shoyu-tomato vinaigrette and fromage blanc. Lush flavors and local ingredients are just what I expected of chefs Hugh Acheson and Ryan Smith. Hugs and big smiles were great bonuses.

Two of my favorites that I could eat as an entree: Miller Union's Steven Satterfield served up shrimp, tomato (Love is Love Farm), okra and hot pepper over rice grits. Hot and Hot Fish Club's Chris Hastings had the most beautiful head-on Florida hoppers with heirloom tomatoes, grilled Vidalia onion, avocados and a basil lime vinaigrette. Holy smokes, they were lobster-like in flavor.

My votes for best booths would be Linton Hopkins' of Holeman and Finch and Restaurant Eugene and Hector Santiago of Pura Vida. Behind the H&F/Eugene area were perfect logos from the restaurants created out of toothpicks and cherry tomatoes. Ingenious. Pura Vida's booth had house cured meat hanging alongside a pig face complete with earring and tomato in it's mouth. The best part, besides his amazing "Montadtod de Tomates", was the display holder he made the night before. He laughed about hammering out the the metal late at night after I complimented him on it. He went into incredible detail about the tomato creama inside his beautiful bite. As he always says, "heart and balls." He never phones it in.

My three favorite creative (and delicious) bites:

• Pimento Cheese profiterole with tomato jam- Patric Bell of West Egg. Exquisite and delectable.
• Tomato and charred watermelon pop- Matt Adolfi of Floataway Cafe. Sweet, savory, cool.
• Heirloom salsa gelee with shrimp ceviche, tortilla powder and micro cilantro- Cooper Miller of The Feed Store Restaurant. Colorful and amazing in texture and taste. Putting all the bits together tasted like a bite of chips and salsa. Yum-my.

Soup on a hot day? Yes, please. I loved Shaun Doty of YEAH! Burger's smokes tomato soup with mussels even on such a warm afternoon. Tomatoes go very well with the salt of the sea. Jay Swift of 4th and Swift cooled my palate after a spicy dish. His tomato melon gazpacho was velvety, soft and delightfully topped with a slice of crisp radish. Cooler still was Ron Eyester's chilled bloody Mary soup with Celia's cherry tomatoes and crumbled farm egg which could be enjoyed inside JCT. I love the green tomato bloody Mary that is seasonal at his restaurant, Rosebud as much as I adored the tomato lemonade champagne he served in The Family Dog cups at the festival. He said it was inspired by Kat Kinsman's tomato lemonade mocktail recipe found here in Food and Wine.

Speaking of cocktails, the mixologists of The Attack of the Killer Tomato were extremely inventive. I liked all but one. Stand outs:

• Tomatina Punch- Kellie Thorn of Empire State South. Loved the tomato foam from Woodland Gardens tomatoes and the lavender bitters.
• Rio Rosa Swizzle- Paul Calvert & Raul Aparcana of Pura Vida
• The Pineapple Express- Brian Stanger of Top Flr
• Scoundrel's Waltz- Kevin Bragg of 4th and Swift

Here are the winners as judged by the people and the celebrity judges, including Kate Krader (a senior editor of Food and Wine Magazine), Andrew Knowlton (restaurant editor of Bon Appetit magazine, Carolyn O'Neil (registered dietitian and columnist for the AJC), and Cybil Wallace (features editor at CNN.com):

• Best Booth: Linton Hopkins of restaurant Eugene & Holeman and Finch Public House
• Best Presentation: Hector Santiago of Pura vida
• Best taste: Andy Carson of Bacchanalia
• Best Cocktail: Miles MacqQuarrie of Leon's Full Service
• Special mention: Donald Sargent of Morelli's Gourmet Ice Cream and Desserts

Peoples Choice

• Best Dish: Eddie Hernandez of Taqueria del Sol
• Best cocktail: Paul Calvert and Raul Aparcana of Pura Vida

I can't wait for next year!