'e -- Jose Andres' "secret" restaurant

This is what your golden ticket looks like when you are the lucky winner of a reservation to 'e by Jose Andres. It is so fitting. Much like Willy Wonka, Chef Andres is the curator of genius. With my golden ticket in hand I was instantly greeted outside the entrance to Jaleo by Anthony Perri. He offered me a glass of cava and led the way through the restaurant to the secret door to 'e. My group and I were seated at the curved 8-seat bar flanking a cooking area. The small room is edged in card catalog drawers. Things are propped up and hanging from various drawers. My eyes darted to and fro. A light fixture disguised as a corset here, a caged doll there, Jesus, a devil mask, apothecary jars. I was so intrigued. Is this a cabinet of curiosities of the life of Jose Andres?
Frozen Sangria with Grilled Strawberries
The dinner show began with sangria mixed with liquid nitrogen and placed in a simple cup. Smoother than gelato, it had the same intense flavor as sangria, just a different texture,. The grilled strawberries were meant to be eaten intermittently with the frozen sangria. The warm and sweet berries were a great temperature contrast and accentuated the wine's sweetness. The chefs before us were using tweezers and other fine implements for the next course. This was going to be something very special, I could feel it.

Spanish "Clavel"

The Clavel is the national flower of Spain given to us here in a cast of Chef Andres' hand. The flower made of papered yogurt with a dab of pomegranate in the center was ethereal. Tangy, floral, sweet and sour in one fleeting bite.

Caramelized Pork Rinds

Light, sweet, salty, oilless. Perfection.

Beet Jewelry

Appropriately served in a golden jewelry box, these beet rings adorned many of our fingers before we tasted. The dehydrated beet curls sprinkled with gold dust were unexpectedly salty and savory. I think because they were so pretty and sparkly, I expected sweetness. Instead we got intense beet flavor in crispy chip-like form. So playful!
Membrillo and La Serena Cone
The bite inside of a pastry cone began with La Serena, a very pungent soft sheep's milk cheese and finished with membrillo, quince paste. The sour and salty followed by sweet and jammy was a contrast of tastes and textures.
Apple "Brazo De Gitano"
I was forewarned of the delicateness of this course but still pierced my fingers through it. The light apple meringue with blue cheese espuma inside dissolves in your mouth. With a thin strip of caramel and a hint of apple, it was both sweet and salty.
Jose Taco & Artichoke with Caviar and Quail Egg
Gasp. That is what I did when this beautiful plate was set before me. It was almost too pretty to eat...almost. I will remember these two dishes forever. This crispy small artichoke housed a soft cooked quail egg and was topped off with sustainable Rio Frio caviar. The harmony of flavors and textures left me wanting more The crispy earthiness of the artichoke, the succulent creaminess of the quail egg and the rich, savory, saltiness of the sturgeon roe were compliments both familiar and surprising to my palate. I am pretty sure "oh my God" came out of my mouth. From here, I wrapped the jewel colored jamon iberico de bellota around the dollop of caviar and paused. Jamon iberico de bellota is the finest jamon iberico, from happy free ranging pigs who spend their last three months eating acorns from the forest floor of southwestern Spain. I first tasted a small fat-swirled ribbon by letting it rest on my tongue. The supple flavor of the acorn rich fat as it melted in my mouth was supple and lingered like a fine wine. The combination of the iberico and caviar was, in a word, sublime.
Bocata "De Calamares"
This adorable little sandwich was an homage to the fried squid sandwiched Jose loved to eat at the beach as a boy. It was adorable but instantly filled me with terror when Stephanie said the word "uni." I am a very adventurous foodie. I will try almost anything. I love offal. But a date in college where the first bite of sushi lovingly thrust into my mouth was uni scarred me for life. This is not the place to pass on a dish so I dug in. Incredible. The fried uni was robust and flavorful with a bit of aoli on a beautiful mini brioche. The cucumber was the perfect cool and crisp addition. Loved it.

Ajo Blanco

Ajo Blanco is a centuries old Andalusian chilled white soup that is often called a white gazpacho. Made from simple ingredients, garlic, bread, water and oil, ajo blanco replaces tomatoes with the regions famous almonds for a creamy and subtly flavored white soup. The soup is thickened with stale bread and garnished with white grapes. 'e's version is a fun deconstruction. Guests are given a bowl of arranged components: sliced almonds, ground almonds, microgreens, grapes and a granita and then a marcona almond liquid made without cream is poured over. We were encouraged to taste the ingredients separately and then mixed. In this way, each layer stood out when sipping the mixed soup. I loved the sweet nuttiness and could imagine myself sipping this on a hot Spanish day. Here is a great recipe/history page if you would like to make it at home.

During our dinner one of our guests inquired about a wine paired with a course. The lovely and gracious Stephanie walked over to the Underwood typewriter and typed out the name and vintage for him. Such a small gesture but so meaningful. I heard this was one of Jose's favorite things about 'e. He was excited for the bill to be typed out for such an intimate experience. I agree.
Santa Barbara Spotted Prawns with Roses
Luscious Langostines in a sauce made from the head and accompanied by rose foam. Rose is not a scent or flavor I enjoy but here the herbal contrast to the Langostines was lush, fitting and delicious.

Smoky Oysters in Escabeche

This was a fun dish! Kumamoto oysters, encased in a spherification of their own liquid were smoked before us in glass globes using orangewood and a polyscience smoking gun. Along with pearl onion confit they were topped with toasted honey air. It tasted like the sea and the brine hung on my palate. I think I closed my eyes for a minute.

Catch: Charcoal Roasted Turbot with Fermented Black Garlic

This delicate, light turbot had a flavorful scallion dressing and citrus pearls that burst with flavor. The fermented black garlic developed a sweetness in the fermentation process and lost the bitterness and sharpness usually associated with garlic.

Whole Lobe of Foie Gras Baked in Salt

Stephanie brought out the lobe encased in salt before it was cut into generous portions and plated on top a streak of cacao, a tart citrus sauce and edible flowers. The salt casing gave it a great texture next to the smoothness that was this perfect piece of foie. Perfection.

Secreto of Iberico Pork

Much like the foie gras, the large plate of secreto was shown to us before being plated.
Secreto is the meat sourced from between two layers of fat from the pig's shoulders. Three slices lightly grilled arrived on a slate plate with copious amounts of shaved black truffles and chanterrelles. The rich, highly marbled meaty goodness was perfectly balanced by the earthiness of its fungal sidekicks.

Orange Pith Puree La Serena

La Serena cheese returned in this dish with the pungent, spoonable cheese nestled atop spirals of clementine pith puree. The salty bitterness is countered by the snappy citrus and mellowed with pumpkin oil. Toppings of basil and toasted, caramelized pumpkin seeds along with the toasted cheese added texture. Think Food Group has a great video demonstration of this dish here. The arrival of dessert also brought espressos, ports and cappucinos in gorgeous, dainty cups and saucers.

Frozen Apricot Coulant
This fruit version of the ever present chocolate molten cake (which I happen to love at restaurants or to make at home) oozed cool apricot liquid when pierced with my fork. It was bright, naturally sweet, and nectarous.

Apples and red wine "Fredy Giradet"

A velvety quenelle of vanilla bean ice cream with alternating spheres of apple and spheres of red wine encased in gelatin. It was a delectable grouping of sweet and spice that playfully paid homage to Fredy Giradet, a world renown chef who lashed out against modern gastronomy.

25 Second Bizcocho

This spongy cake was given to us with the task "pick it up and eat it." Like a one-year old with her first taste of cake, I obliged. It was airy, citrusy, sweet and light. It reminded me of a cooking demo Richard Blais did on the 2010 Top Chef Tour. He showed the audience how to make a perfect cake in 25-30 seconds using flour, sugar, eggs and a paper cup, vindicating the microwave in the kitchen. This version was delightfully shaped and deliciously moist.

This incredible experience comes to an end with the arrival of a golden box of chocolates, two pieces each of saffron scented milk chocolate squares topped with strands of saffron and dark chocolate "air" with maldon salt. I typically do not enjoy milk chocolate. My palate prefers dark. However, this milk chocolate was light, smooth and flavored and scented with the infused saffron as well as the thread resting on top. I love the tasty bitterness with the chocolates sweetness. The dark chocolate air, much like the bizcocho, melts in your mouth. The addition of salt mellows the chocolate, reduces the bitterness and brings out the cacao. In a nutshell, divine.

At the end of the dinner (say it isn't so) the staff lined up much like a theatrical curtain call and we applauded. The applause was not only for the refined food we enjoyed, each dish steeped in Spanish tradition and taken to cutting edge, but for impeccable service.

I left 'e walking on air after the most extraordinary gastronomic experience of my life. Truly. Jose Andres is a creator of genius. I cheered for him when he deservedly won the 2011 James Beard award for Outstanding chef on May 9. Accepting his award Jose said "Food has the power to change the life of people." On this particular night the food and Jose changed mine.

Oh my darlin, oh my darlin...

This box of sunshine is sitting on my counter full of nectarous possibilities. Shall I make something sweet, something savory or enjoy them after peeling away nature's wrapper? If apples are the fruit mascot of winter and watermelon the mascot of summer, then clementines are certainly my talisman of winter. Packed with about the same high amount of vitamin c as a navel orange but remarkably more flavor, clementines are a delicious snack choice. First one out of the box eaten as nature had intended. But what to do with the peel? Zest!


Wait, before I get to zesty stuff I need to share a creative clementine concoction from my favorite mixologist, Jeff Jackson, who is now GM at Rosebud. An homage to Jackson's love of plaid, the Tartan is a checky mixture that softly channels the sweetness and zing of clementines. As this tall beautiful glass is set before you, you will be enchanted by the citrusy aromas that are heightened by its ingredients. The Tartan begins with clementine infused vodka (he likes that they are sweet but retain acidity in the vodka). Jackson is adept at transforming a neutral tasting liquor like vodka into an intense infusion that lends itself to his creations. Add to clementine infused vodka a cranberry shrub. Shrub, you ask?

shrub: a shrub is a drink concentrate/liqueur/cordial

made with fresh fruit vinegars and sugars.

Many are based around berries. Shrubs recipes

date back to colonial times and are similar to grog.

Here the tartan gets tarty. Jackson's last component is prosecco, whose bubbles lighten the heaviness of the sugary shrub and he mentioned something about the mineral quality (have I mentioned his discerning palate?) while I was thinking "yum." If you were lucky enough to spend an evening or afternoon at the bar chatting, eating and drinking with Jeff, you know how good this tastes. And luckily for us he will be starting Drink with Jeff again soon. I have had some wonderful adventures with wine and cheese on the patio with this outgoing oenophile. Check it out. I guarantee you will learn something.

Chicken with Clementine shallot sauce

Here is what I did:

• salt, peppered and allspiced (just a tad) a few chicken breasts




• sauteed both sides in olive oil




• set aside and cover with foil to keep breasts warm.


• deglaze pan with 1/2 or so of white wine (dry, oakey, stale, leftover from last night)



• add chicken broth (about 1/2 cup?), finely chopped shallots, 1/2 the juice from the clementine and zest



• boil and reduce. Whisk in thyme, a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, remaining clementine juice and any needed spice.



• cut chicken into slices, place and spoon sauce.
  
  

Easy and scrumptious! Now what to do with the leftover peel?

Here is what The Lilliputian Baking Company does with clementine peel. They candy it and sell it in cute lil jars at The Irwin Street Market.

You could either eat these sweet treats as is or dip in dark chocolate. Extra pieces would make an excellent garnish for the following recipe I found on Epicurious.com.

Chocolate Tart (photo from Epicurious.com)


Ingredients:
For crust
Vegetable oil for greasing pan
5 ounces wheatmeal biscuits such as Carr's whole-wheat crackers, finely ground (1 1/3 cups)
2 tablespoons sugar
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

For filling
2 large egg yolks
1 1/3 cups heavy cream
10 1/2 ounces fine-quality bittersweet chocolate (not unsweetened), finely chopped


Special equipment: a 9- or 10-inch fluted round tart pan (1 inch deep) with a removable bottom; an instant-read thermometer


Make crust:
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly oil tart pan.

Stir together biscuit crumbs, sugar, and butter in a bowl, then press crumb mixture evenly onto bottom of tart pan. Bake crust 10 minutes, then cool completely in pan on a rack.

Make filling:
Lightly beat yolks in a small bowl. Bring cream to a simmer in a 2-quart heavy saucepan and remove from heat. Add about one third of hot cream to yolks in a slow stream, whisking constantly, then pour yolk mixture into remaining cream, whisking.

Cook custard over moderately low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until it is thick enough to coat back of spoon and registers 170°F on thermometer, 1 to 2 minutes (do not let boil). Remove from heat and add chopped chocolate, whisking until smooth.

Pour filling evenly over crust and chill tart, uncovered, until firm, at least 2 hours. Remove side of pan and serve tart chilled or at cool room temperature.

♥ and cohones!

Pura Vida always has ample free parking, a rarity in Atlanta when it comes to my favorite restaurants. On a balmy Friday evening as the sun was setting (think the start of a Top chef episode), we parked across the street and hit the crosswalk that leads right to the door. We were greeted with a smile and the percussion of Latin music. We danced our way to our table after returning a wave and a smile to chef/owner Hector Santiago. It is such an electric atmosphere. I have had a different server every visit and each has been friendly, helpful, knowledgeable, efficient and enthusiastic. I don't say this much.

We sat under the brown glass pendant lamps and noted the "rain" falling only behind one window. It must have been from chef Hector's pepper garden growing on the rooftop. I thought of those tasty peppers as I recalled Bon Appetit's 10 best roof to table restaurants list on which Pura Vida garnered a spot. I need to get another bottle of his hot sauce when I leave too.

We usually order a bottle of wine but this time we opted on a few signature drinks. The mojitos are outstanding! Ours had coconut rum, lots of muddled mint and a fresh quarter stalk of sugar cane. We also tried the mango lemonade. Rummy and mangoey as described. The bloody Maria, made with tequila instead of vodka was spicy and flavorful, a perfect match for our tapas.
On first inspection, I noticed many new items on the menu. Our server, Laura, noted that a new menu came out this week and it was "really exciting." We started with a couple of appetizers from the bar menu--a plate of beautiful serrano ham and a melon dish topped with fried jamon. Simple, sweet and salty.

Our tapas began arriving in a steady stream. Steaming coconut buns, a dish I always order, were mouth watering. I couldn't wait to taste the crispy pilon pork belly on the soft coconut pillows layered with cilantro, cabbage and a tamarind sauce. Heavenly. I love this dish especially because the tiny pickled Chile peppers come on the plate.


My mouth was happily on fire with the piquant peppers when my green papaya salad with king crab was laid before me. Great timing, as the cool, tart, crisp papaya with sweet fresh crab cooled my palate. Very tasty and refreshing. I tried on of the buenelos, puff filled with savory cheese as my table mates enjoyed empanadas with Hector's Diablo sauce and huge testones (Mayan fried plantains with chipotle honey and cilantro puree).

Our server came by to see how we were liking our dishes and we asked a few questions. She was so knowledgeable about the ingredients in each dish and drink. Even if she had not been so focused on our experience, the menu had a glossary of items that may be unfamiliar to the diner. I learned a few things on this particular evening.

The hangar steak pinchos with cilantro chimchurri sauce were a flavorsome bunch of juicy, tender meat on skewers rubbed with adobo caribe. They arrived hot. In fact, every dish came to our table hot and fresh. I noticed and appreciated as much just as I appreciated Hector's inventive and clever food prepared from local ingredients.

My apio dish was placed before me and with just a look I could tell it was going to be interesting--celery in many forms. This was my favorite of the night because by description and ingredients it was so unassuming. Crunchy celery and celery root puree gnocchi with a light sauce, layers of both flavors and textures showcases chef Hector's creativity.

Speaking of inventiveness, this incredible plate of Ahi tuna was a sight to behold. Cubes of bright tuna surrounded by lemon caviar, cilantro, a spicy aoli, coffee "dirt." I loved this playful dish for so many reasons.

A long, thin roja pizza was piping hot with roasted garlic tomato sauce and crumbles of Spanish chorizo. This would be a great option for kids but they would have to fight the adults at our table for a bite. We then shared the wahoo and chorizo skewers with banana mustard. Hot and tasty goodness with a rich, tangy sauce that seamed peculiar at first but paired perfectly. Last up, Lobster on polenta that was warm sweet and saucy.

Despite our many plates, we anticipated the dessert menu. I think we tried them all. House made ice creams tonight included guava ice cream that was buttery and peach-like in flavor, leche cream that was ice-milk yumminess and a nutty one that I never did ask about. It was the best one. The chocolate flan brulee was gone very quick as our spoons dove into it's warm, spicy chocolate middle and we ended with the chocolate tart. A perfect dark chocolate ending to a perfect dinner.

Chef hector came to our table for a visit. We chatted about the flavors, ingredients and his motto "heart and balls." His from the hip cooking with no rules, just experimental tastes makes for the best tapas in Atlanta. He is so very charming and so passionate about his craft. He told us how the Top Chef tour has been and about an upcoming demo at the Ohio State fair. He is also rather stoked about gastrotrek to Peru. He is ecstatic about the Mistura Gastronomic Festival which he described as "a foodie paradise where you can eat from one end to the other all day long" and still cannot taste everything. As the sun set we headed home discussing along the way our favorite hidden gems in each dish. Pura Vida never dissapoints.

Quintessential Chocolates

I love pulling into my driveway to find a package at the door. Today there was a big brown box awaiting me. Inside, deep inside, was a mylar insulated package which revealed yet another package. Chocolate! This unexpected gift came from Quintessential Chocolates out of Fredericksburg Texas. Lecia Duke,a former architect and graphic designer founded Quintessential Chocolates in Nashville, Tennessee in 1984 after apprenticing under a Swiss master-chocolatier to learn the almost-lost confectionery art form known as liqueur praline (sugar crust). Duke has made liquid-center chocolates with over 150 storied beverages including Frangelico, Amaretto, Crown Royal, Crème de Menthe, Hennessy Cognac, various Kentucky Bourbons, Tequila, and Tennessee Whiskey plus wines of the world including Champagne, Bordeaux, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and Port. I read a bit about the process of forming a capsule of cornstarch to house the liquid and the process of enrobing it in chocolate. Fascinating.

The California cabernet was mellow but not overly flavored with the wine (which I would have preferred). The chocolate has just the right amount of richness to blend with the filling but not be too overbearing. I learned a valuable lesson with this first one; take one bite unless you want liquid running down your chin.

The Tennessee whiskey packed a punch. It was an explosion of newly distilled whiskey that ended with the crunch of crystallized sugars. She has really put her knowledge of architecture to use. The liquid centers of the chocolates are unmolested by sugars or additives and enter your mouth in their purest form. I have tasted many liquor filled chocolates but never like this. I may need to call up Ethel M and compare for comparison.

My favorite so far is the Tawny Port. Its smoothness compliments the rich, dark chocolate perfectly.

Palomitapapa addiction

When the description says it "defies expectations," it does. I have an unhealthy addiction to Sahagun's Palomitapapa pieces with exploded corn. Dark, rich, handmade chocolate with pieces of exploded corn, ground chile japones and a dusting of O Prado Fino sea salt. Elizabeth Montes gets the japones from her father's garden.

I love The Meadow for trying new chocolates or different varieties of salt but mostly I love the site for these. Try one just once, I dare you.