Wish: My favorite local things

Someone on twitter mentioned that there were only 104 days until Christmas today. I wasn’t ready to entertain the thought until I thought of Wish parties. Each year during the holiday season a group of girlfriends and I gather for a fun night out and exchange gifts. Sometimes we set a limit and sometimes there is a theme. My favorite evening was when the gift to bring was a re-gift of a piece of jewelry or accessory that you just didn’t wear but loved. I came home with a gorgeous scarf that came with a story. I gifted a necklace that was so pretty but had never been worn.For years it sat lonesome in a box in my bathroom drawer. Now I get to see it regularly on a friend who adores it. Besides giving a loving home to things we couldn’t let go of otherwise, the narrative behind each gift was the best part of the evening. When I host a Wish party this year, I am going to combine the stories with a basket much like Oprah’s favorite things episode she used to produce. Each guest will bring a number (depending on the number of guests) of their locally made favorite item. Everyone gets one of each and goes home with a basket full of goodies. My ideal basket:

 

Sweet Grass Dairy Green Hill Cheese

This creamy, buttery, and smooth cheese with a thin bloomy rind and golden color is similar to Camembert. Jersey cow’s milk gives it the gorgeous color and I am convinced being made with love gives it its taste. Sweet Grass Dairy is a family owned and operated farm in Thomasville where the cows live as cows should and cheese making grew out of new found joy at a cheese-making class. It’s delicious, local, and sustainable.

 

French Broad Chocolates Vanilla Bourbon Caramel

True perfection. They had me as a loyal customer at our first meeting a couple of years ago but my intense love for Jael and Dan Rattigan stems from their business plan: "To explore our perpetual lust for culinary creativity through the medium of chocolate. To create a beautiful space and a beautiful menu; to witness the emotional impact of our creations on our patrons; to further hone our place in the community and lighten our environmental impact, all the while living as decent human beings." Many business owners say things like this this, but Jael and Dan actually have achieved their objectives. I love everything about French Broad Chocolates, from their meticulous sourcing, their Willy Wonkaesque factory harnessing the sun to roast the beans, to the lovely packaging. My friends know of my great love and make sure to stop for me each time one of them is in Asheville. My favorite confection right now is the Vanilla Bourbon Caramel filled with Knob Creek bourbon. Sweet, rich and at the same time a lil smoky from the bourbon. Runner up: Lavender & Honey truffle with local lavender & wildflower honey and  Peruvian dark chocolate. It is layered bits of the Blue Ridge Mountains wrapped up inside of exotic dark chocolate. You can smell, taste, and feel the lavender bits and the honey. Pretty sure it tastes like sunshine and bluegrass too.

Emily G’s Berbere Sauce

Inspired by a spice mixture that is the flavor foundation for Ethiopian cooking, Emily G’s Berbere Sauce makes grilling or crock pot dinners easily exotic. Super inspired by the spice combination, Emily woke with the flavor in her head and worked all day crafting a batch that eventually became this sauce. The “love” that is printed on her jars can be tasted. She tries to create jams, sauces and relishes simply, naturally, and with the best ingredients available. I can’t wait to get my hands on a jar of pear honey which came about after she tasted an amazing pear from South Georgia and dreamt up a slow cooked, thickened version of it with just a hint of honey. It’s much like how her Emily G’s story began- a mom (who also happens to be a classically trained chef) on a strawberry picking play date in Lawrenceville with buckets full of fresh berries. The play date turned into a jam making day. This is how Emily’s grandmother from Alabama did things. When you have a fresh ingredient in excess, you put-up. Friends and family loved what they tasted, wanted more, and Jams of Love was born.

If her curry ketchup collaboration with Rosebud is ready by the holidays, I might put it in my wish bag too.

 

Southern Gal Bath and Body

These are luscious lip balms that I use every day. I have one in my purse, one in my car, one in the kitchen, and one right next to me at my computer. It began with a crafting whim at making soap and has grown into a full bath and body line. Tricia’s soaps are beautiful, creamy, and have lasting scents. Making them allows her to be an amazing mom at home. For the holidays this past year I bought soaps, candles, scrubs, and lotions for everyone from Southern Gal Soaps/ Bath and Body.

Beautiful Briny Sea Salts

Beautiful Briny Sea Salts are made here in Atlanta. I especially love the truffle salt and the lavender salt. The blends are made with hand harvested salts from around the world and certified organic herbs. All ingredients are sourced from the growers with sustainability as a focus.  More importantly, they are incredible delicious.

Garlic Clove Foods: Gluten Free Garden Pilaf

The D’Angelos make delicious, healthy, and quick cooking foods a family affair with Garlic Clove Foods. Everyone pitches in to produce blends made with a combination of 100% Whole Grains (Quinoa, Bulgur & Millet), Vegetables, Legumes and natural herbs and spices.  The Gluten free Garden Pilaf is a mixture of organic millet and organic quinoa with vegetables, herbs, and spices. I love being able to gift something made near my home by a family trying to bring better food to everyone's table. My gluten free friends will love it!

Phickles Pickles: Rasta Beans

Phickles Pickles began in 2009 in Angie Tillman’s home kitchen and has since moved to a facility in Athens. The entire family pitches in from the filling of the jars, sticking on the labels, and delivering the boxes. Each jar is hand packed with locally sourced veggies and fruit. I love all of the pickles but Rasta Beans are my favorite of the bunch. Rasta Beans came about as a gift to a local Athens restaurant that served a few dishes with jerk seasoning. They now have quite a cult following. Rasta Beans are not always available but she will make them to order. Look for Angie and her sweet booth adorned with heirloom linens at farmer's markets and local shops.

H & F Bottle Shop Bloody Mary Mix

It’s not a spicy mix but that is easily remedied with the addition of hot sauce and a few of those Rasta beans mentioned above. I love the mix’s  brightness and thickness. The mix begins with hand-milled tomatoes, not juice, but tomatoes and includes hand-squeezed lime juice, Worcestershire, horseradish, Trappey’s hot sauce, celery seed, and cream Sherry. The bottle encourages you to add to it what will make your bloody Mary best for you. I absolutely love the handwritten batch date on the label.

Pine Street Market Cured Meats

Pine Street Market meats begin with local pork from Berkshire hogs from Gum Creek Farms in Georgia. Humanely raised pigs forage off the land using a rotational grazing method without antibiotics, pesticides, or herbicides. CIA trained Rusty Bowers is a skilled craftsman in the art of salumi. His house-cured meats made on site in Avondale Estates and aged in custom-built, climate controlled curing caves. My favorites are the speck and the applewood smoked bacon. My kids call it the “good bacon” when they are asking for it.

 

NaturAlmond Almond Butter

 





When Jamie Foster couldn't find almond butter in stores that could compare to her grandfather's, she began making her own. With the enlivening support of friends and family, NaturAlmond was born and continues to grow in Chamblee, Georgia. Handcrafted using just two ingredients, roasted almonds and sea salt, it is both delicious and nutritious.

photo from Milepost65.com

Jack Rudy Tonic

This small batch cocktail syrup made in Charleston is gorgeous in apothecary bottles with letterpress labels. Besides quinine, the tonic is composed of a blend of lemongrass, orange peel, sugar, and citric acid. It is concentrated and can be used as a sweetening agent for a cocktail or traditionally as “tonic water” with the addition of fizzy water. I confess that I have yet to try it but I have had stellar cocktails from Brooks Reitz at Fig Restaurant in Charleston. What’s not to love about a handcrafted tonic from a southern gentleman who named his product for his grandfather?

♥ and cohones!

Pura Vida always has ample free parking, a rarity in Atlanta when it comes to my favorite restaurants. On a balmy Friday evening as the sun was setting (think the start of a Top chef episode), we parked across the street and hit the crosswalk that leads right to the door. We were greeted with a smile and the percussion of Latin music. We danced our way to our table after returning a wave and a smile to chef/owner Hector Santiago. It is such an electric atmosphere. I have had a different server every visit and each has been friendly, helpful, knowledgeable, efficient and enthusiastic. I don't say this much.

We sat under the brown glass pendant lamps and noted the "rain" falling only behind one window. It must have been from chef Hector's pepper garden growing on the rooftop. I thought of those tasty peppers as I recalled Bon Appetit's 10 best roof to table restaurants list on which Pura Vida garnered a spot. I need to get another bottle of his hot sauce when I leave too.

We usually order a bottle of wine but this time we opted on a few signature drinks. The mojitos are outstanding! Ours had coconut rum, lots of muddled mint and a fresh quarter stalk of sugar cane. We also tried the mango lemonade. Rummy and mangoey as described. The bloody Maria, made with tequila instead of vodka was spicy and flavorful, a perfect match for our tapas.
On first inspection, I noticed many new items on the menu. Our server, Laura, noted that a new menu came out this week and it was "really exciting." We started with a couple of appetizers from the bar menu--a plate of beautiful serrano ham and a melon dish topped with fried jamon. Simple, sweet and salty.

Our tapas began arriving in a steady stream. Steaming coconut buns, a dish I always order, were mouth watering. I couldn't wait to taste the crispy pilon pork belly on the soft coconut pillows layered with cilantro, cabbage and a tamarind sauce. Heavenly. I love this dish especially because the tiny pickled Chile peppers come on the plate.


My mouth was happily on fire with the piquant peppers when my green papaya salad with king crab was laid before me. Great timing, as the cool, tart, crisp papaya with sweet fresh crab cooled my palate. Very tasty and refreshing. I tried on of the buenelos, puff filled with savory cheese as my table mates enjoyed empanadas with Hector's Diablo sauce and huge testones (Mayan fried plantains with chipotle honey and cilantro puree).

Our server came by to see how we were liking our dishes and we asked a few questions. She was so knowledgeable about the ingredients in each dish and drink. Even if she had not been so focused on our experience, the menu had a glossary of items that may be unfamiliar to the diner. I learned a few things on this particular evening.

The hangar steak pinchos with cilantro chimchurri sauce were a flavorsome bunch of juicy, tender meat on skewers rubbed with adobo caribe. They arrived hot. In fact, every dish came to our table hot and fresh. I noticed and appreciated as much just as I appreciated Hector's inventive and clever food prepared from local ingredients.

My apio dish was placed before me and with just a look I could tell it was going to be interesting--celery in many forms. This was my favorite of the night because by description and ingredients it was so unassuming. Crunchy celery and celery root puree gnocchi with a light sauce, layers of both flavors and textures showcases chef Hector's creativity.

Speaking of inventiveness, this incredible plate of Ahi tuna was a sight to behold. Cubes of bright tuna surrounded by lemon caviar, cilantro, a spicy aoli, coffee "dirt." I loved this playful dish for so many reasons.

A long, thin roja pizza was piping hot with roasted garlic tomato sauce and crumbles of Spanish chorizo. This would be a great option for kids but they would have to fight the adults at our table for a bite. We then shared the wahoo and chorizo skewers with banana mustard. Hot and tasty goodness with a rich, tangy sauce that seamed peculiar at first but paired perfectly. Last up, Lobster on polenta that was warm sweet and saucy.

Despite our many plates, we anticipated the dessert menu. I think we tried them all. House made ice creams tonight included guava ice cream that was buttery and peach-like in flavor, leche cream that was ice-milk yumminess and a nutty one that I never did ask about. It was the best one. The chocolate flan brulee was gone very quick as our spoons dove into it's warm, spicy chocolate middle and we ended with the chocolate tart. A perfect dark chocolate ending to a perfect dinner.

Chef hector came to our table for a visit. We chatted about the flavors, ingredients and his motto "heart and balls." His from the hip cooking with no rules, just experimental tastes makes for the best tapas in Atlanta. He is so very charming and so passionate about his craft. He told us how the Top Chef tour has been and about an upcoming demo at the Ohio State fair. He is also rather stoked about gastrotrek to Peru. He is ecstatic about the Mistura Gastronomic Festival which he described as "a foodie paradise where you can eat from one end to the other all day long" and still cannot taste everything. As the sun set we headed home discussing along the way our favorite hidden gems in each dish. Pura Vida never dissapoints.

Cochon 555 atlanta

( photos by Thomas James Photography)

I hummed Pink Floyd all afternoon.

I had the privilege of attending Cochon 555 in Atlanta this weekend and I am still dreaming of the flavors created by the invited chefs and wineries. Cochon 555 is the brainchild of event planners Brady Lowe and Carolina Uribe. This coast to coast 10 city tour invites 5 chefs who are supporters of local food and who support the heritage breed. Pigs are locally sourced from sustainable heritage breeds. Need to brush up on what "heritage breed pig" means? Click here for a great article describing heritage breeds as a rough equivalent to organic. Brady hopes this tour's purpose will be "building new relationships between chef and farmers." Along with the 5 chefs and 5 pigs are five wineries that are family owned.

I arrived at the swanky W hotel in Buckhead at 3:30 for the VIP "meat and greet" held on the 16th floor pool area. First stop, a 2006 Evenstad Reserve from Domaine Serene. This Willamette Valley Pinot Noir was smooth and round with notes of spice, berries/cherries and cedar had a long finish and was perfect with pork. BLT Steak had a beautiful offering of super fresh bluepoint and greenpoint oysters that tasted of the sea. Next was a stunning array of cheeses and accompaniments, notably Emily G's jams. The light shown most brightly on a mason jar filled with perfect slices of Benton's bacon. My first pork of the event and it was perfect!

After a chat with the affable Mr. Lowe I ventured out into the sun to see the butchering demonstration. We watched the talented knife skills of chef Craig Deihl of Cypress break down an entire guinea hog for charcuterie. I had a few more oysters, another glass of Domaine Serene and another slice of lamb salumi before we headed down to the 4th flour for the competition.

The lowdown on Cochon 555:
5 of the best regional chefs, each with a 125 heritage breed pig
5 family wineries join to showcase their wine
foodies, food critic, fellow chefs and bloggers indulge
guests and 20 professional judges determine the winner based on presentation, utilization and best flavor

I rode the elevator with a writer, photographer and cheese trays. We were all having such a fun experience and we had not yet entered the competition. On our way, I was thrilled to run into Taste network's Carolina Uribe and talk a little about the event and its vision. The 4th floor space was industrial-spacious with open ceilings, cement floors, sunlight streaming in from three sides. I reached for a glass for wine tasting and delighted in seeing tiny piglets in each one. It's the simple things.

I chose a 2006 Columbia Rediviva of the Stones from Buty Winery from the Walla Walla Valley. This cabernet syrah blend, much to my liking, was dominated by syrah. It was earthy and like the description, sensuous. I tended to go back to this spot throughout the evening. I began my quest for pork, where some chefs offered one choice and others offered 13.

Kelly English (“2009 Best New Chef” by Food & Wine Magazine) of Restaurant Iris in Memphis smoked a Gloucestershire Old Spots breed from Freckle Face Farm in AR for 24 hours and created 700 banh mi tamales. What a fantastic start. The tamale, topped with coleslaw and pork cracklins was spicy, smoky and a mix of Asian and Mexican flavors.

I made my way over to Mike Lata of FIG restaurant in Charleston. His food is ridiculously delicious, sustainable, locally acquired and seasonal. I'll admit I have created a weekend vacation around reservations on more than one occasion. He's also a really cool guy. Lata presented 10 cohesive offerings from his Tamworth breed from Keegan-Filion Farm in SC. Nestled among the sunflowers were the following dishes: Banh mi pickled ramps, headcheese and liver pate; corn hogs with rhubarb ketchup (presented in lovely paper cones), boudin blnc chow chow, pork skin "ala parmegianno" polenta, bbq ribs with coleslaw, pork belly with watermelon pickles, crispy trotters gribiche, lard crackers (pig shaped even!) with pimento cheese, porchetta tonnato and bourbon lard caramels. You could really see and taste the amount of effort and creativity that went into this oblation of pork. My favorite was the crispy pork trotter and I could have eaten 10. Lata said that he expected this to be the next trend in food. His diners love them. I visited Lata's space many times for another pimento cheese and another bourbon lard caramel. Praise the lard, those were delicious.

Next to Lata's area was the Hirsch Vineyards tasting. The lovely Jasmine Hirsch poured me a glass of Bohan Dillon “Family Blend” Pinot Noir. This smoky, tobacco tasting wine really brought out the flavors in my next couple of dishes.

Todd Mussman of Muss and Turner's serves food that is always fresh and local. I like his restaurant because I can go in jeans and flip flops and have amazing seasonal food and an incredible wine without any fuss. Todd had a Yorkshire hog from Gumcreek Farms in GA. You could smell the smoky pork from a distance and that is what drew me over to him. Todd handed me his "entire pig in a bowl" which was smoked roasted porchetta over smoked pork consomme with bitter herb salad and ham jerky. It was delicious, smoky, satisfying.

We headed back towards Hirsch Vineyards for the wine and also so my companion could talk with Jasmine again. I stopped at the Anne Amie Vinyards table for another pinot. Boyd Pearson poured me a glass of the 2007 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. It was dense, heady, mushroomy, herby and complimented the smoky meat perfectly. I would quickly be back for another glass.

My next stop was with last year's prince of porc Kevin Rathbun of Rathbun's and Rathbun Steak. He looks amazing by the way. Kevin had a Berkshire hog from Riverview Farms in GA. My first bite/slurp was a steamed pork dumpling in 5 spice consomme. Meh. It was good, but simple compared to dishes I have eaten at Rathbun's. I then took a bite of the pork belly flan. Others around me were a little hesitant, saying that they do not like the consistency of flan and can't imagine it with meat. When I say this was mouth-watering goodness, it is an understatement. My palate was awakened by a combination of flavors it had never experienced. Like a fine wine, I rolled the flan around on my tongue. It was smooth, smoky, with notes of cherry, chocolate and had a nuttiness i later found to be candied cashews. This was my favorite dish of the event. Hands down.

Meanwhile, Ryan Farr of 4505 Meats San Francisco held everyone's amazement as he broke down an entire hog neatly. I couldn't help but hum Weird Al Yankovich's "Like a surgeon."


Moving over to Sean Brock's station, I was in awe. Artfully settled before me on straw were 13 treats. Sean comes from McCrady's restaurant in Charleston, a favorite of mine not just because they are ecologically sensitive (check out their recycling, local and sustainable, but because Sean's food is delectable. Sean chose an Ossabaw/berkshire cross from Ecofriendly Foods in VA. and turned out such creative dishes that they were disappearing as they were laid out. I stood next to chef Kevin Gillespie and wanted to chat with him more, but really wanted to lay my hands on Sean's bites. First off, I had the pork fried funnel cake with pork lard sugar. Have I said "praise the lard" already? Well, can I get an amen? Next, a "noodle" bowl where the noodles were made from pork skin cut very thin. The johnny cakes topped with braised bacon, a quail egg and whipped sorghum were a hot ticket. I heard from a judge or two that liked this the best.
He had pickled red hot sausage, an incredible coppa pastrami with secret sauce, bibb letttuce and pumpernickel, a creamy pork liver over soup, chicharrones even. I loved the pastrami, but my favorite was actually the garden radishes with braised fatback wrapped on a stick. It was farm to table and to my mouth.


To say that I was satiated at this point would be an understatement, but wait, there's more. Guest chef Nick Melvin of Parish rolled through the crowd with an entire roasted pig that had been injected with 12 pounds of hamhock butter. Sandwich bread and sauce was provided and as he began chopping the crowd dug in. Parish is a staple for me and I inched closer for a bite. Much to my delight, Nick picked up "the best part," dipped it in sauce and hand fed it to me. Incredibly good.


The event came to a close with a presentation of gifts and bourbon to the 5 chefs. Guests were treated to Benton's bacon brittle with chocolate covered chicharrones. I think I will dream of this sweet and savory concoction for quite a while. We waited anxiously for the prince of porc announcement and the winner was...Sean Brock. Sean gave a touching thank-you speech and held his trophy high. His prince status enables him to compete in the Aspen Food and Wine Classic on June 2oth where someone will be crowned King or Queen of Porc.


On to the afterparty.....

Cochon 555 Upcoming dates:
4/24 Des Moines IA
5/2 Washington DC
5/16 Portland
5/23 Seattle
6/6 San Francisco
6/6 Aspen Food and Wine Classic

concrete to cauliflower

When I read today's article in the AJC about the new Edible garden at The Atlanta Botanical Garden, my head began humming Joni Mitchell. "They paved paradise and put up a parking lot..." Essentially, the Botanical Garden is a tree museum but this museum took a parking lot and returned it to nature, paradise if you will. Visitors will now be able to see food in it's natural state. We have become so disconnected from our food. If you have ever seen Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution, you have witnessed school-aged children unable to name fruits and vegetables. I'm not talking about rutabagas or durian, but tomatoes. Tomatoes! Kids could not identify tomatoes.

The new garden opens Saturday, May 1. There will be a visitors’ parade across the Canopy Walk, led appropriately by Atlanta’s Seed and Feed Marching Abominable. Who better to usher in the slow food movement at our beloved garden? My membership has expired but I plan to renew it today out of love and respect for a great idea. Soon local chefs with a love and respect for local, sustainable foods will show us the farm to table way, chefs like Linton Hopkins, Kevin Gillespie, Hugh Acheson, Billy Allin, Ann Quatrano, Clifford Harrison, Scott Serpas, Jay Swift, Shane Touhy, Todd Mussman, Ford Fry and Nick Melvin to name a few.

Let's hope schools start making plans for field trips for hands-on learning. First stop, tomatoes.

*field bag can be found on Etsy here.

Reader's Choice

Vote now for your favorite spots in Atlanta in The Sunday Paper's readers Choice Awards. Click here to vote. My picks were pretty easy.]

best overall: Ecco, Woodfire grill (tie)

best new restaurant: Empire State South (I'm betting on it)

BEST LOCAL CHEF: Kevin Gillespie, Hector Santiago (tie)

BEST WAIT STAFF: La Tavola

BEST BARBECUE: Fatt Matt's

BEST PUB FOOD: The Porter

BEST SEAFOOD: Oceanaire

BEST SOUTHERN: South City Kitchen

BEST SANDWICH SHOP: Alon's

BEST BRUNCH: Parish

BEST DESSERT: flourless chocolate cake with olive oil and sea salt-La Tavola

BEST BLOODY MARY: Front Page News

BEST WINE LIST: Ecco

BEST ICE CREAM: Jakes

BEST RECESSION-FRIENDLY CHEAP EATS: El Taco

BEST BEER SELECTION: Brickstore

BEST PIZZA: Antico

BEST TAPAS: Pura Vida

BEST BARTENDER: Hadi Joyce, Wisteria

BEST PATIO: Six feet Under (rooftop, but patio nonetheless)

Farm to Table event at JCT Kitchen

Don't procrastinate finishing your taxes! James Beard finalist Hugh Acheson will be the guest chef at JCT Kitchen on Thursday, April 15th. The menu looks incredible. We already know how fabulous the chef is with regional cuisine and the entire portion of the proceeds goes to Georgia Organics. It's a win-win-win situation. The ambiance of Ford Fry's JCT Kitchen, the innovative comfort food of Hugh Acheson and money going towards sustainability and locally grown foods. I've already booked my table.

Scoutmob

I have been scoutmobbing all over town. This is one of my favorite new Apps. The deals are so good that I feel guilty using the codes in restaurants. Most of the deals I have acquired have been from spots I would visit regardless of coupons or deals. No keeping up with coupons, no wasted paper. Click here to get the app. Remember to tip your server on the pre-deal amount.

martini

Up, Dry, a lil dirty, two olives please. Who has the best martini in Atlanta?