wood sorrel

When I was a little girl I would take my books and journals into the woods. There was this magical spot with wild grapes, thick vines, blackberries, and a mossy floor to lie upon. I didn't need much more that this setting and words on a page. In this spot, I could be anywhere, in any time. Sometimes I was an Indian (I had not learned to say "Native American" yet) living off the land and other times I was Laura Ingalls Wilder searching the prairie for beauty. I had a creek for water and it was filled with crawfish. I would pop the wild grapes and berries into my mouth as I read about things like drying meat for pemmican.

Sometimes I made fairy salad with bits of things I knew were edible. Violet flowers, mint leaves, dandelion, and what I called "fairy bells", but now know as wood sorrel. It's a delicate yet decadent mix while on a mossy carpet with a daisy crown upon your head.

The Fresh Cut at Kimball House

I no longer live near the magical spot but the taste of wood sorrel always reminds me of carefree days of unbridled imagination where I made bouquets of lilacs, daisies, and violets. So yesterday when Miles Macquarrie handed me a chartreuse-colored cocktail with pureed sorrel called The Fresh Cut, I became Laura Ingalls and squealed "sorrel tastes like springtime!"

Wood sorrel is of the genus Oxalis, meaning "sour." A first nibble of wood sorrel tastes pleasantly tart and lemony with a slight feeling of what I call "spinach tongue," that sticky, weird feeling caused by oxalic acid. Raw or cooked, wood sorrel is bright and fresh.

Wood sorrel grows from mid-spring to fall in shady areas of undergrowth. It consists of three heart-shaped leaves on a slim stem and is often confused with clover, which has oval-shaped leaves. The leaves can be green, red, or purple but always grow three to a stem. Flowers can be yellow, white, or pink. The creeping perennial is dainty with long, slender stems that only fully extend in the shade. Sorrel is so delicate that the leaves fold in when in direct sunlight or during storms and the leaves and flowers close up when it is dark.

All parts of wood sorrel are edible: leaves, stems, flowers, and seed pods (which I called "fairy bananas" as a child). There are no poisonous look-alikes but those with kidney problems or gout should avoid eating because of the high oxalic acid content. Wood sorrel is high in vitamin c, potassium, and a great source of iron. Many have sojourned into the woods for sorrel to cleanse their bodies of heavy metals. I just think it tastes delicious. It is great raw in salads, almost eliminating the need for dressing with its zing. The leaves are wonderful in smoothies or as a pot herb. To make a lemony tea: pour boiling water over leaves and flowers and let steep for a few minutes. Mmm spring.

"A year is made up of a certain series and number of sensations and thoughts which have their language in nature. Now I am ice, now I am sorrel."

                                                     - Henry David Thoreau, Journal, June, 1857

Dandelion

I picked up these greens from Woodland Gardens at the new Freedom Farmer's Market at the Carter Center.

Dandelions are one of the first spring greens to appear and also one of the most nutritious leafy vegetables. Their bright, somewhat bitter, and fresh leaves are a welcome mitigation from winter's starch-laden and preserved foods. Often used as a spring tonic, dandelion greens are rich in vitamins A, C, E, D, K, as well as copper, potassium, phosphorous, and magnesium. They are higher in beta carotene than carrots and higher in calcium and iron than spinach. They are also a great source of protein and fiber. Beyond vitamins and minerals, dandelion greens have properties that support digestion, reduce swelling, and act as an antibacterial.

notebook sketch

 

All parts of dandelion are edible: the leaves, flowers, stems, and root. They emerge from January to May and are best at this time. "Best" is an understatement. I wouldn't want to eat bitter dandelion greens any time other than spring. The younger the plant, the less bitter and more tender. New fronds are almost sweet and are more nutritious. There are ways to lessen the sharpness of the leaves beyond simply using younger leaves in early spring. Process them with some sort of naturally occurring fat (nuts, seeds, oils...). They make a great pesto. Blend them in a smoothie with fruit. Grill them as you would romaine or sauté like spinach. The leaves also make a great green for sandwiches.

Dandelion leaves are smooth and green and grow in rosettes from the roots. The edges are indented in large "teeth." It is wonderful to purchase greens from farmers' markets but foraging has an advantage- the crowns. The crown is the knot-like bit sitting upon the taproot just where the leaves meet it. It is kind of artichoke-y and contains the flower buds. Always remember to gather dandelions only from ground clear of road run-off or chemicals.

 

 The roots of dandelion are often dried, roasted, and ground as a coffee substitute or even added to cookies and cakes. I find them best like any boiled vegetable. Clean, peel, and chop the root and  boil the slices roots for 5+ minutes. Add salt and pepper and a dash of olive oil.

 

Those bright, happy flowers we made headdresses of as children (well, I did) are more than just spots of sunshine in the grass; they are quite tasty. Dandelions have composite flowers. Hundreds of tiny ray flowers make up the "flower" we see. From this, we make dandelion wine, natural dyes, vinegar, battered and fried flowers, or add the bright petals to spring salads. Or for a fun spring cocktail or soda, try making dandelion flower syrup:

 

Dandelion Flower Syrup

 

2 cups petals (tightly packed)

2 cups sugar (can use honey as well)

2 cups water

juice of 1 lemon (optional)

 

• wash flowers and remove petals
• cover with water
• bring to a boil for 1 minute
• remove from heat
• let steep overnight or for several hours
• strain
• add sugar and lemon
• boil then reduce to simmer for 1 1/2 hr
• decant in bottle or mason jar
• use in place of simple syrup



 This prolific "weed" is the scourge of suburban lawns but no matter how many chemicals are doused upon this source of nutrition, medicine, and burst of cheer, it remains. The dandelion's fortitude reflects upon its prowess.

 

Perhaps the best part of the dandelion is when the flower goes to seed and hundreds of tiny parachutes send them far and wide with our wishes. Make a wish, you.

Ramps, the ephemeral sign of spring

As dreary February slowly slogs, I find myself "alert for the first signs of spring" much like an anxious Henry David Thoreau in his Walden cabin. Forsythia and daffodils are in full bloom in the south but the first edible green of spring has yet to emerge from its perennial bulb.  Ramps, a harbinger of springtime, are feted each year with festivals,celebrations, queens, and eating contests. For a brief time they are the stars of many a spring menu.

From The Library of Congress American Folklore Collection

We have had such a lack of true winter this season that I wondered what affect the warmth would have on ramp emergence through the leafy loam of the forest. I checked on one of my favorite foraging spots this weekend and guess what; one rogue ramp was growing in early February. Ramp season is coming!

Ramp season is normally late March through early April in this area (Northern Ga). Native to North America, ramps are found from South Carolina to Canada but grow especially well in Monongahela National Forest (N. Central VA). Research apprises me of this as much as my childhood memories.  I spent many a spring break submerged in the Monongahela forest as a child camping, hiking, collecting and foraging. At the time I wished I was playing on the beach or at Disney like many of my friends spent their week. In retrospect, the experience of finding, gathering, and cooking my food was invaluable.

close up of ramp leaves

Ramps are fairly easy to nose out (hee).  Begin in shady areas of deciduous forests, woods, and ravines with moist soil composed of loads of organic matter, like leaves. Look for bright green, broad, flat leaves.  The leaves resemble those of the Lily of the Valley, their poisonous doppleganger. A quick sniff of the leaves reveals an effluvius garlicky aroma. The ramp's bulb resembles that of a scallion but the long stem usually is purple or deep burgundy on the lower end. The leaves last a month or so then wilt and disappear. Pretty white flowers open in the middle of spring. They have a  stronger flavor and make for a pretty addition to salads.

Ramps can be eaten in entirety.  They are aggressively full of flavor with a taste like spring onions and the scent of garlic. They are potent in vitamins and minerals and revered for their revitalizing power. Throughout history, including Native American folklore, people have created spring tonics with ramps. The gathering of the greens is as much an ushering in of spring as it is a therapeutic awakening.  After a winter with protein and starch laden foods and a lack of fresh fruit and vegetables, ramps would be incredibly revitalizing. Ramps are rich in vitamins a and c, selenium, chromium, folate, iron, antioxidants, choline and have an abundance of sulfur compounds. Thoreau was onto something when he said "we need the tonic of wildness." This ephemeral stinky plant contains compounds the prevent against cancer (Selenium), help the liver eliminate cholesterol (sulphur compounds), boost cognitive function (choline) and prevents hypertension (prostaglandin A1).

journal page

The etymology of allium tricoccum, ramps, is fascinating. Their European cousin, Allium Ursinum, is probably the source of the name, for, ramson is what Europeans look forward to in spring. Some call them nodding onions, wild leeks, wild garlic, or buck rams. It should not go unnoticed that "Ursinum" is derived from the Latin "ursus," meaning bear. Bears love digging up ramps, wild garlic and ramson by any name. Perhaps they too need a spring tonic after hibernation. Coinciding with ramp season and the end of hibernation for bears is the astrological sign Aries, the ram (March 20-April20). Ramps have been revered for ages; one of America's greatest cities is even named for them. "Chicago" is derived from an Algonquian word for garlic field, "chicagoua."

Ramps are easy to harvest but make sure you do so ethically. There is no need to unearth an entire patch and over harvest. Besides, a little ramp goes a long way. You don't need a special tool to harvest; a screwdriver will do the trick. Brush away leaves surrounding the plant and gently dig.  The bulbs grow in clumps. One way to not over harvest (besides just gathering leaves) would be to only gather part of a clump and leave the rest. You could also grow your own, but for me, part of the mystique is the thrill of the hunt. The seeds can be found on the the white flowers that grow on the leafless stalk.  They are black like shotgun shot and bounce; a great seed dispersal mechanism of the plant. Seeds take 6-18 months to germinate and plants take 5-7 years to produce seeds. Enough reason to not overharvest or take baby ramps.

Ramps are great just sauteed in a bit of olive oil or mixed in with eggs or potatoes. They are incredible if you keep in mind the old addage: "foods that grow together go together." Think ramps, morels and fiddleheads.  Mmmmm, the perfect combination. There is something about a dish that conveys a season with a taste; the memory of food like this stays with me.  I once had a ramp custard with morel broth and buttered morels at Empire State South and I swooned. Ramp farrotto, lamb confit with ramps, and pickled ramps stand out as dishes from ESS that celebrated the ramp.  Drew Van Leuvan of One Midtown Kitchen created a scallop dish with foraged mushrooms and pickled ramps last spring that was perfect. I remember it and can almost taste it. I also remember a fish Drew made with pickled ramps and mushrooms over an onion puree. Another memorable ramp special was a fish dish from The Iberian Pig. I cannot remember the type of fish (halibut, I think) but I do remember the ramps, morels, and fiddleheads along with fennel and blood orages. It was so complex, yet light; earthy yet refined. I squealed with my first bite. It tasted of spring.

Ramp Pesto

Ingredients:

2 bunches ramps,washed and trimmed

1/2 c parsley

1/2 c toasted nuts (I like pine nuts)

1/4 c Parmesan cheese, grated

1/2 t lemon juice (or a good squeeze)

olive oil

salt and pepper

1) Puree all ingredients except olive oil and salt & pepper in food processor

2) Slowly pour in olive oil to the consistency of a paste

3) season with salt and pepper then toss with pasta

*this is great on a steak as a chimchurri if you leave out the cheese.

Ramp Compound Butter

Ingredients:

1 lb butter

1-2 c ramp greens, chopped finely

2T fresh squeezed lemon juice

1) combine ingredients in food processor

2) pack ingredients into jar

3) smear on crusty bread

*keeps about 6 months in fridge and can be frozen

Kudzu Supper Club and The Perennial Plate

Kudzu Supper Club brings together growers, patrons and chefs to celebrate the sustainable farms of Georgia. Add wine to the mix and an incredible evening of enlightenment and exploration ensues. I had the priviledge of attending one of the unforgettable dinners on October 9th, 2011.

Close to the event date, the secret location was emailed to the guest list along with directions. On Sunday afternoon we set forth to Burge Plantation in Madison, Georgia for an experience I will not soon forget.The drive to the dinner spot was breathtaking, so removed from the city that I felt transported into another time. It was very easy to settle down and relax in this atmosphere.  Out of the car, I was instantly greeted by Kudzu founders, Brady Lowe and Cory Mosser and introduced to Daniel Klein of The Perennial Plate. Unlike a usual dinner party, these type of gatherings are always much more approachable.  Must be something about a shared purpose or simply a love of food but I felt comfortable around everyone and made fast friends with those around me.Chefs, farmers and diners mingled in the spirit which this enterprise had intended. I don't want to get sappy, but it was a beautiful thing.

I had only been out of the car for a minute before Brady placed a glass of Riesling in my hand. See? Good people. Loved this Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Washington State Riesling--apple/apricotty with a zing finish.

 The reception began with a welcome from Brady, a selection of local cheeses, and a bucket of chicharrones and kale chips. I had to physically separate myself from the bucket of goodness.

Made my way to the fire to take in the smells (and maybe a bit of bourbon). Delighted to find Chef Nick Melvin (Rosebud) and Chef Shane Devereux ( The Sound Table, Top Flr)manning the coals.  Wanted to scoop this simmering lamb into my mouth.

This was my view from the fire. Dreamy, isn't it?

At the fire I had the first of many of these--Nick's sea salt skewers with seared lardo and padron peppers. Perfection.

Everyone took their seats at the table. Mine was on the side looking down over the lake. Artisan bread was passed along with charred elephant garlic and olive oil to schmear. We also had jars of pickled goodies to sample. I made sure my seat was near Nick Melvin's pickled carrots and pickled beets. They are legendary.

Head and trotters terrine. Nom Nom.We also had incredible lamb pate in jars but we enjoyed them quicker than I could snap a photo.

I loved the joyful tablescapes of happy Burge Farm veggies. The first course continued with a salad of baby farm greens and winter radishes. Food tastes infinitely better when it has just been harvested and eaten on the dirt it was grown within.

Scholium Project Naucratis 2009

Second course begins with more crusty bread that will soon be sopping up the most flavorful broth I have ever tasted. (really) Daniel Klein of the Perennial Plate prepared a Gum Creek Farms whole lamb with Indian Organics foraged edibles. I don't think I took a photo of this dish, mostly because I was agasp at how lovely it looked, smelled and tasted. It was so layered with different flavors and textures. Knowing that the whole lamb was used and hearing the tale of foraging the woods on the property for edibles furthered my love for it. Honestly, there was not a drop left in my bowl.

Sokol Blosser Estate Pinot Noir 2008-perfect with lamb and pork. Tasted of cherries.

Buttermilk sorbet intermezzo. Loved the pickled watermelon rind.

Chef Nick Melvin describing the experience and getting us excited about our third course (s). He puts love into his food. You can't do anything but smile and feel good when he talks about sustainable, local ingredients and heritage pork.  He is a maestro.

I neglected to snap more photos of our meal but don't regret it. I was having such a great time meeting the people at our family-style table and savoring each delicious bite. This photo is of my neighbor's plate after he had already dug in.  We had plancha crisped sausage (made by Nick) and nardello peppers--yowza, so good.  Next up, dry-aged, Gum Creek Farms pork scallops. I think Nick mentioned that they were sou vide which made me realize how much effort had been put into this dinner.  He must have been up all night. The "scallops" were perfectly cooked (again, amazing for being outside on a farm) and packed full of flavor from both the heritage pig and the pesto. On the side, but certainly able to stand on their own, were Burge organic spiced greens and a hash of local apples, sweet potatoes and roasted poblanos.  Spray bottles of potlikker were on the table for the greens. SPRAY BOTTLES OF POTLIKKER!

Dessert course blew my mind. This is a candied bacon and fresh creme Sticky Piggy Pudding. Sweet and salty and creamy. It was both decadent and comfort food at the same time. I could have eaten 4 of them.

A parting shot at the end of a meaningful evening. Tommy Searcy of Gum Creek Farms, Nick Melvin of Rosebud, Brady Lowe of Taste Network and smiling Cory Mosser of Burge Organic Farm. Taking a quote from Steve Jobs, "And the only way to do great work is to love what you do.Your work is going to fill a large part of your life, and the only way to be truly satisfied is to do what you believe is great work." This group of men, Daniel Klein of The Perennial Plate included, believe in and love what they do and it shows. This was such a great collaboration of good and I was ecstatic to be a part of it. I would dine like this weekly if the opportunity arose. I don't really feel adept at putting the atmosphere into words but being surrounded by happy chefs, farmers, meat magicians (Rusty Bowers of Pine Street Market was there as well), wine enthusiasts, foragers and adventurous diners all bent on a sustainable taste experience was intoxicating.

no fiddlehead?

Love these new bowls, platters and trivets from Crate and Barrel's Sprout collection. Fellow foragers will love them too. Wish they had one with fiddleheads. Click on the link to see the image of the radish and cress.