fiddlehead definition


fid·dle·head [ fídd'l hèd ] (plural fid·dle·heads) noun
Definition: edible fern shoot: the coiled frond of a young fern, often cooked and eaten as a delicacy

Showing posts with label Hector Santiago. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hector Santiago. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Attack of the Killer Tomato Festival

My favorite festival, Attack of the Killer Tomato, celebrated its 5th year July 21 with all the pageantry and aplomb that a beloved gathering of chefs, mixologists, farmers, and tomato enthusiasts could possibly muster. All for the beloved tomato and to help Georgia Organics advocate for our local farmers.
 
44 Chefs representing 38 restaurants paired with 27 local farms and their bounty of summertime tomatoes, many of them those ripe heirloom beauties that have us scoffing at grocery store imposters. It is astounding to me how each year there are so many new and interesting creations from our bevy of talented Atlanta chefs all relying on the same ingredient for inspiration.
Jeff Jackson of Rosebud
Jeff''s "Paint it Red"
Add to the chefs 17 mixologists grouped with both local farms for tomatoes and one of the following: Crop Harvest Earth Vodka, Farmers Botanical Gin, Ole Smoky Tennessee Moonshine, Troy and Sons Moonshine, or Paqui Tequila. Again, the mixtures never seem the same and are the biggest treat of the usually very steamy Sunday fest.

People's choice winner Local Three with Caprese Ice Cream with basil, ricotta, and tomato flavors.
 
 
 My favorite bite, tomato umami bomb, from Tyler Williams of Woodfire Grill. So good I couldn't hold the camera steady.
My favorite cocktail from Andy Minchow of the much anticipated Ration and Dram. Confession time; I had three. The Tajin seasoning on top was so unexpected and perfect.
Hector Santiago's slider. He is now with Abattoir and I cannot wait to see what he brings to the table. 

 Patric Bell-Good's (Barrelhouse) Bloody Mary Gazpacho with pickled corn and okra utilizing Troy and Son's white whiskey. Looking forward to more Troy and Sons at Asheville Wine and Food Festival in a few weeks.

Arianne Fielder of Seven Lamps and her Nest Egg: gin, strawberry-tomato granite, rosemary, and a green chartreuse "egg" floater.
 
Kara Hidinger with Abattoir's Gandy Dancer (loved the tomato foam). Cannot wait for Staplehouse to open. Kara, Ryan Smith, and Ryan & Jen Hidinger is a dream team of goodness in so many ways.

 
Did I mention the dunk tank? Watching Ron Eyester get repeatedly dunked was a laugh riot. He was such a good sport.
Until next year...
 
 
 
Speaking of tomatoes, The Red Gold Summertime Grillin' Party is now live on their Facebook page. There will be a grand prize give away of a Big Green Egg. To enter: click Here.  I use their lime and cilantro tomatoes to make a quick and delish chicken burger.

Caribbean Chicken Burger
 
1 lb. ground chicken
1 14.5 oz can of Red Gold Lime Juice & Cilantro
Salt & Pepper
 
Mix ground chicken and Red Gold tomatoes (drained). Form into patties. Salt and pepper. Grill
 
Serve on a toasted H& F bun or lettuce. Add guacamole or avocado or even a roasted pineapple slice. Top with Emily G's chutney.
 

Monday, January 14, 2013

Celery Root


Someone recently asked me about my favorite seasonal offering during winter. The ugly duckling of the vegetable bin, celery root, summarily came to mind. It is no surprise that the
knobby, warty, barnacle- like root is overlooked for sexier edibles of wintertime. Visually repugnant it may be, but I still recall my first taste. I was an angsty teen walking through a mall where a restaurant show was happening. Someone handed me a white paper cup with something mushy in it and something crispy on top. I can’t remember the crisp part, but I remember the shazam! moment when I tasted the puree. That entire season I asked every restaurant if they served celery root to no avail. To this day, a taste of celery root brings back the memory of a moment in time that really sparked food adventurism in me.
Celery root or celeriac (sometimes also called knob celery, turnip related celery, or Verona celery) is one of those vegetables you wonder aloud about at the farmers market with “what made the first person eat this?” It is not appetizing to look at. Still underrated in the U.S., it is widely used in Europe and has been since the Middle Ages. It even gets a mention in Homer’s Odyssey as “selinon.” Pretty sure the horses were eating it, but you have to start somewhere.
Celery root is the cousin to carrots, parsley, parsnips and anise- root vegetables that you eat either for their tips or their root. It is developed from the same wild species as stalk celery but it is cultivated for its root, not its stalk. Its flavor tastes like a fusion of celery and parsley and smells similarly. To me the taste is redolent of the earth-soil, but it in delicious way. It is delicious and a hearty non-starch replacement for potatoes. It is also remarkably storable, remaining fresh 1-2 weeks in a refrigerator and longer in a root cellar. I love root cellars. Remember to trim the leaves from the root before storing.
Root cellars are one of my favorite things

Before making its way onto European and Western Asian dinner plates, it was used mainly for medicinal and religious uses. I have read this in many books and descriptions about celery root but have not uncovered which sort of “religious uses” these were, unless aphrodisiacs and crowns of celery root leaves to cure hangovers are religious uses. For this is how the ancient Greeks used it. It is widely revered for its calming and analgesic properties. The Chinese used it to stabilize high blood pressure and much of Europe used it to detoxify the blood and eliminate intestinal parasites.  The jury is out on whether celery root will cure your hangover or your love life, but celery root is extremely low in calories (1/2+ 20 calories), high in fiber, nonfat, and rich in vitamins A, E, & C, Potassium, Phosphorous, and Carotene.
The root can be mashed, boiled, roasted, braised, sautéed, added to thicken soups and stews, sliced for salads, and even French friend. It is as versatile as our beloved potato but ever more nutritious and tasty. Look for firm tubers without lots of discolorations. Smaller roots taste better. Larger roots are woodier and better for long stewing or roasting. Remember to allow for about ¼ of it to be discarded as you peel off the thick outer layer. A knife works better than a vegetable peeler to “peel” the outer layer. Don’t discard those yummy leaves. They have the highest percentage of vitamin c. Use them to flavor soups, sautés, and salads. I have even made a quick pesto of them.

Boiling the chopped root


My favorite way to prepare celery root is with a simple puree. I peel, cut into cubes, and boil the root in half milk & half water for about 20 minutes. Drain, saving some of the liquid, then puree with a hand blender with some of the reserved liquid. Top it with a piece of trout and a few of the leaves.
Celeriac Remoulade is a classic French dish similar to coleslaw where the root is peeled, grated, placed in lemon juice, and dressed in a mustardy mayo. You can even pickle celery root using a simple dilly bean recipe. Hughsli sells a yummy looking celery root-kohlrabi mixture I would love to try. Empire State South here in Atlanta often has a celery root soup with candied hazelnuts that is pretty outstanding. I also used to love the celery root gnocchi from Hector Santiago at the recently closed Pura Vida. Check out this recipe by Hugh Acheson in Food and Wine for Creamy Celery Root Skordalia where he uses celery root in place of traditional potatoes.
 
Photo from  Best Emerging Chefs.com
I really want to make this recipe of Celeriac with Moscatel Grapes, Burnet, and Toasted Hazelnuts from Ollie Dabbous (whose restaurant Dabbous is on my bucket list).
I asked a couple of chef friends their favorite way to prepare and eat celery root.  Nick Melvin of the soon to be Garden District likes to do a celery root remoulade brown butter puree. Zeb Stevenson of The Livingston and Proof & Provision likes to make a celery root gratin. So many possibilities. I am going to try latkes with the celery roots I have on hand or celery root cake. Yes, cake (from Gotham in New York).

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

ONE. Midtown Kitchen Summer Chef Series

Extremely thrilled for this summer chef series at ONE Midtown Kitchen. Drew Van Leuvan is one of my favorite chefs in Atlanta. When you dine at ONE with Drew you get the best of both worlds. He uses the finest, freshest local product with a sophisticated and creative approach to the ingredients. He takes the simplest ingredient and elevates it to tantalizing. Just this week I had his take on asparagus soup: a cool foam of white asparagus over a layer of creamy warm green asparagus. It was as luscious and delicious as it was stunningly beautiful. Fiddleheads were on the menu as well but I chose scallops with foraged mushrooms and pickled ramps.

This chef series will gather some of Drew's friends and favorite chefs to showcase their skills. Guests will be treated to a 5 course summer feast prepared by that evening’s Chef and Drew. Chef Van Leuvan will prepare an amuse and the first and fifth courses while the Guest Chef will prepare the second, third and fourth courses. All courses will be creatively paired with cocktails, wine or beer courtesy of each Chef. A ticket for a 5 course meal, with beverage pairings, will be $75.00. Pick 3 dinners for $200. Pick 5 dinners for $300. Guests can make reservations through ONE. midtown kitchen at 404-892-4111. Dinner begins at 7 pm. Menu themes for each evening will be posted on onemidtownkitchen.com. Just look at the talent coming:



June 1st-Hugh Acheson of Empire State South, 5&10, The National and Gosford Wine


June 15th- Shaun Doty of Yeah! Burger





June 29th- Bruce Logue of La Pietra Cucina

July 20th- Ford Fry of JCT Kitchenand Bar and No. 246 (coming soon)



August 3rd- Hector Santiago of Pura Vida and Super Pan

August 17th- Drew Belline of No. 246






August 28th- Richard Blais of Flip Burger Boutique (sold out)





August 31- Carvel Grant Gould of Canoe






September 14th- Joshua Hopkins of Abattoir







September 28th- Ron Eyester of Rosebud and The Family Dog

Friday, July 2, 2010

♥ and cohones!


Pura Vida always has ample free parking, a rarity in Atlanta when it comes to my favorite restaurants. On a balmy Friday evening as the sun was setting (think the start of a Top chef episode), we parked across the street and hit the crosswalk that leads right to the door. We were greeted with a smile and the percussion of Latin music. We danced our way to our table after returning a wave and a smile to chef/owner Hector Santiago. It is such an electric atmosphere. I have had a different server every visit and each has been friendly, helpful, knowledgeable, efficient and enthusiastic. I don't say this much.

We sat under the brown glass pendant lamps and noted the "rain" falling only behind one window. It must have been from chef Hector's pepper garden growing on the rooftop. I thought of those tasty peppers as I recalled Bon Appetit's 10 best roof to table restaurants list on which Pura Vida garnered a spot. I need to get another bottle of his hot sauce when I leave too.

We usually order a bottle of wine but this time we opted on a few signature drinks. The mojitos are outstanding! Ours had coconut rum, lots of muddled mint and a fresh quarter stalk of sugar cane. We also tried the mango lemonade. Rummy and mangoey as described. The bloody Maria, made with tequila instead of vodka was spicy and flavorful, a perfect match for our tapas.
On first inspection, I noticed many new items on the menu. Our server, Laura, noted that a new menu came out this week and it was "really exciting." We started with a couple of appetizers from the bar menu--a plate of beautiful serrano ham and a melon dish topped with fried jamon. Simple, sweet and salty.

Our tapas began arriving in a steady stream. Steaming coconut buns, a dish I always order, were mouth watering. I couldn't wait to taste the crispy pilon pork belly on the soft coconut pillows layered with cilantro, cabbage and a tamarind sauce. Heavenly. I love this dish especially because the tiny pickled Chile peppers come on the plate.


My mouth was happily on fire with the piquant peppers when my green papaya salad with king crab was laid before me. Great timing, as the cool, tart, crisp papaya with sweet fresh crab cooled my palate. Very tasty and refreshing. I tried on of the buenelos, puff filled with savory cheese as my table mates enjoyed empanadas with Hector's Diablo sauce and huge testones (Mayan fried plantains with chipotle honey and cilantro puree).

Our server came by to see how we were liking our dishes and we asked a few questions. She was so knowledgeable about the ingredients in each dish and drink. Even if she had not been so focused on our experience, the menu had a glossary of items that may be unfamiliar to the diner. I learned a few things on this particular evening.

The hangar steak pinchos with cilantro chimchurri sauce were a flavorsome bunch of juicy, tender meat on skewers rubbed with adobo caribe. They arrived hot. In fact, every dish came to our table hot and fresh. I noticed and appreciated as much just as I appreciated Hector's inventive and clever food prepared from local ingredients.

My apio dish was placed before me and with just a look I could tell it was going to be interesting--celery in many forms. This was my favorite of the night because by description and ingredients it was so unassuming. Crunchy celery and celery root puree gnocchi with a light sauce, layers of both flavors and textures showcases chef Hector's creativity.

Speaking of inventiveness, this incredible plate of Ahi tuna was a sight to behold. Cubes of bright tuna surrounded by lemon caviar, cilantro, a spicy aoli, coffee "dirt." I loved this playful dish for so many reasons.

A long, thin roja pizza was piping hot with roasted garlic tomato sauce and crumbles of Spanish chorizo. This would be a great option for kids but they would have to fight the adults at our table for a bite. We then shared the wahoo and chorizo skewers with banana mustard. Hot and tasty goodness with a rich, tangy sauce that seamed peculiar at first but paired perfectly. Last up, Lobster on polenta that was warm sweet and saucy.

Despite our many plates, we anticipated the dessert menu. I think we tried them all. House made ice creams tonight included guava ice cream that was buttery and peach-like in flavor, leche cream that was ice-milk yumminess and a nutty one that I never did ask about. It was the best one. The chocolate flan brulee was gone very quick as our spoons dove into it's warm, spicy chocolate middle and we ended with the chocolate tart. A perfect dark chocolate ending to a perfect dinner.

Chef hector came to our table for a visit. We chatted about the flavors, ingredients and his motto "heart and balls." His from the hip cooking with no rules, just experimental tastes makes for the best tapas in Atlanta. He is so very charming and so passionate about his craft. He told us how the Top Chef tour has been and about an upcoming demo at the Ohio State fair. He is also rather stoked about gastrotrek to Peru. He is ecstatic about the Mistura Gastronomic Festival which he described as "a foodie paradise where you can eat from one end to the other all day long" and still cannot taste everything. As the sun set we headed home discussing along the way our favorite hidden gems in each dish. Pura Vida never dissapoints.
Pura Vida on Urbanspoon