Fall Cocktails in Atlanta

On a spectacular day watching the sun set from my perch at Top of the Mark in San Francisco I talked with my bartender about fall and the autumnal drinks I love so. Gone are the fruity, pastel, light drinks of summer. On the fall inspired cocktail menus are rich, spicy, dark concoctions meant to warm one from within. "What is your favorite?" He asked. I told him about Navarro Carr from The Sound Table and his perfect Toronto. This is where we switched proverbial places and I tended to him, instructing each delicious step along the way to my go-to fall elixir. He stirred, tasted, and declared it simple, yet intriguing.

We arrived at the subject of Atlanta bartending when I flipped through a dog-eared copy of San Francisco Magazine and spotted Jason Rager who recently moved from Atlanta and his post at Holeman and Finch Public House to San Francisco's AQ. Rager's Manhattan was a favorite fall (and all year) cocktail of mine with 110 proof Willett rye, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, both Angostura and Regan's bitters, and a house-made cherry. I can never replicate it at home. Though he and Greg Best are gone, cocktails are still outstanding at this James Beard nominated Bar Program. The Ranier Expedition is a favorite of mine lately- High West Silver Oak, Imbue Petal and Thorn, Punt e Mes, Amargo Vallet (herbal, spicy liquor ), lemon bitters.


Top of the Mark Manhattan

Angela Manhattan at Miso Izakaya

 

My bartender tried his hand at a perfect Manhattan. It was good, but not a Jason Rager Manhattan or The Angela Manhattan Ronnie Le Claire makes at Miso Izakaya. The swizzle sticks were great though. San Francisco bars love their swizzle sticks. More swizzle sticks, more matchbooks, Atlanta! The conversation carried on and I talked about a fun week of trying fall cocktail menus in Atlanta with a friend. Follow along below.

Our cocktail adventure began with mixtress extraordinaire Kellie Thorn at Empire State South. I swooned over a Brief Encounter, all boozy with the strong spices of fall (Lion's Pride dark oat whiskey, Carpano, Antica Formula, barrel aged bitters) yet nostalgic for the summer that has gone  with a strawberry shrub from local strawberries of early summer. It was bewitching how it matched my enthusiasm for the coming cold at the loss of summer's bounty.

We moved to Abattoir for foie gras from chef Hector Santiago's Butcher's menu and a fall sipper. Bartender's choice: The Autumn Crisp from Ryan McLaughlin. It tasted like something you would want to sip from a thermos next to a fire and was gorgeous in the glass with a dried apple slice resting on the edge. Recipe here:

2 oz. American Spirit Whiskey
1 oz Cinnamon spiced iced tea (we use Harney and Sons)
1 oz Fresh squeezed Ellijay Apple Juice
¾ oz Honey Water (1 part honey to 1 part water)
2 bar spoons lemon juice
Dried apple slice - garnish

Combine all ingredients in a glass. Add ice. Add apple slice garnish.

From Abattoir we headed to Miso Izakaya to treat my out of towner to one of Atlanta's best cocktails: The Unsung Hiro. During the summer, it sips like a refreshing cooler but the magic of this concoction is its morphing ability.  The cool, crisp fall evening was equally matched by the rye, spicy ginger, and Lapsang Souchong infused sea salt that dances atop the hand cut cube of ice filling the glass. I declared this my favorite summer cocktail but I need to include it as a favorite fall sipper too.

 

Last stop for this particular evening is a favorite haunt- Proof and Provision. Small, dark, and undergroundish, you never know what kind of crowd will roll in here. Bartenders are solid, endearing, super creative, and most of all able to put up with whatever crowd floats in. See, across the street is the Fox Theater. I have witnessed dressed up for the ballet people ordering shots of Goldschlager (which P and P does not carry) and throngs of vest-wearing, PBR-ordering Mumford and Sons fans using words like "bespoke cocktail." The guys behind the bar don't flinch; they just roll with it. The crowd was weird this particular night but the drinks were solid. Fitting a fall evening as well as the end of a good day of sampling was The Firm Handshake, a menu staple. Redemption Rye, Leopold's Fernet, demerara syrup, bitters, and a smoky lapsang souchong tea-infused ice ball blend in perfect harmony of sweet and bitter.

 



As we walked into the stony cavern that is  Wrecking Bar, my friend from Las Vegas smiled and sat with "There is nothing like this in Vegas." I sipped a High West Campfire while he smiled happily with an  Elijah Craig 18 year. Behind the bar Ian Cox and Brian Ferraro kept the jokes coming while crafting classic cocktails. Ian made his Rye in the Dark, his mixture in the Taste of Atlanta Barcraft Competition. I will be ordering this perfect fall sipper with rye and Fernet for months to come.

sampling from the vast bourbon selection

We stopped at my favorite pre-Chastain spot before our concert, Food 101. The Goldentini was a nectarous barrel-aged mix of Troy and Sons Platinum whiskey, Lillet Blanc, and rhubarb bitters. It was perfect with the beef jerky chef Justin Keith shared with us as we discussed the merits of bevnaps at length.

Paul Calvert of Paper Plane has a Smith's inspired menu that blew me away. In a glass he managed to capture the essence of a song, the angst of youth, and autumnal flavors in one fell swoop. Big Mouth Strikes Again is a big mouthful of fall: bourbon, vermouth, cappalletti aperitif, bigallett china-china (made from sweet and bitter orange peels and spices), and bitters. Calvert arranges his cocktail menus from light to dark. This one lies appropriately on the bottom of the list. I have also had a few "There's a Light That Never Goes Out" this season. It never fails to delight my senses. The walnut paneled walls and comfy barstools never fail at soothing comfort either. Stepping into the space at Paper Plane feels at the same time habitual and enchanting, a perfect place to beguile time. We ended this evening with a walk through the tiny-light strewn courtyard to our cab.


The third evening was cool and we settled in for rabbit rillettes and cocktails at One Eared Stag which is a really cozy spot on a Sunday evening. I had a great autumn inspired drink but it was a bartender's choice so I don't have many details to spare other than Rye and cherry bitters, I think.

Final stop on our three day cocktail crawl is my new favorite in Atlanta, Kimball House. I am thoroughly  and profoundly enchanted with everything about Kimball House. I have frequented the many establishments that have held court in this building but none have filled the space with the grandeur it deserves. It is transportive stepping into Kimball House. On this particular rainy evening, the space was dazzling. I wanted to order caviar service and sip gin from the many vintage glasses as towers of oysters were presented. The outstanding oyster program is something that Atlanta has been missing. I look forward to seeing the menu filled with twenty or so fresh choices from around the US on Instagram each day. We didn't have any this evening but I did wax poetically about a night when I helped with a tower of fresh shells, each one shucked to perfection with no shell and ample sea water. This evening it was all about Miles McQuarrie's bar program and the nighttime ambiance that is the inside of an old train depot.

 

Mexican Razor Blade

We had a couple of Mexican Razor Blades-- tequila, sherry, lime, coconut, cinnamon, cayenne--spicy, smoky, and delicately layered with exotic flavors. The Bellman is another favorite with rye, Carpano Antica Formula vermouth, and many bitters.

 



The Bellman
 

So we ended a weekend worthy of the word epic filled with the joys of life and sweater weather concoctions. Our three days of conversations were lifted with those who delightfully entertain behind the bar. I have a list of places and barkeeps we missed. I will leave that to our next adventure.

 

Goldenrod

I walked to find the meadow, to sink down into the grass, soak in the sun, and feel childhood pleasure. The grass was lush and brilliant green on this early autumn afternoon. The sky was a cloudless robin's egg blue, the type odes and songs are written about. Breaking up these jewel tones was an explosion of gold plumes softly swaying in the gentle breeze. Goldenrod, one of summer's last flowers.

 

I watched the bees alight on the blossoms, drinking the already honey-scented nectar. Animals and insects, attracted by the bright, showy plumes, drink the abundant nectar and collect the heavy pollen. Heavy pollen. Hear that? Goldenrod is not wind pollinated and even if it was, its pollen is too heavy and sticky. Poor goldenrod is always blamed for early fall allergy season but the real culprit is the plant that shares its bloom time with goldenrod: ragweed. Ragweed has the small greenish yellow flower heads and produces giant amounts of necessary tiny pollen to float in the wind. Fields ablaze with goldenrod do signal the coming of colder temperatures, but are not to blame for your sneezing.

 

Billy goat weed, Feverfew, and Goldenrod- a ruderal bouquet 

To most goldenrod is considered a weed. Well, maybe not in Kentucky where it is the state flower or Delaware where it is the state herb (who knew there were state herbs?). The perennial with single woody, hairy stems grow from 3 to 7 feet tall. Its narrow, dark leaves alternate between jagged and smooth edges. It multiplies by sending root runners which take root and start to grow new plants. Strawberries do this too. This is why there are usually clumps of goldenrod together. The bright flowers bloom in late summer to early fall. Because it can crossbreed with other plants, there are more than 100 species of goldenrod. Goldenrod is noticeable both because of its fiery bloom and because it is a ruderal ( from Latin rūdus meaning rubble)species, meaning it easily grows in poor soil or disturbed soil. These are the first to colonize after a forest fire or take over an abandoned lot.

 

Fun History of goldenrod:

• Thomas Edison experimented with goldenrod when he tried to find a naturally occurring substitute for rubber at the request of Henry Ford and Harvey Firestone. The rubber tree, which does not grow in the United States, provided the natural rubber used for tires up to that time and it was becoming increasingly expensive. Edison managed to get 12% rubber out of the plants. Henry Ford even made a Model T with tires made of goldenrod rubber and claimed the tires strong and long lasting. Eventually synthetic rubber was discovered.
• Goldenrod was one of the plants used for tea after English tea was boycotted following the Boston Tea Party (1773). They called it "Liberty tea." It was also used after the Civil War when English tea was difficult to obtain.

The vibrant yellow flowers have long been a source of dye. All parts of the plant are edible and all varietals are safe. Goldenrod is of the genus Solidago which means "to strengthen" or "to make whole." Beyond tea, it has long been used medicinally for respiratory and urinary tract issues and to help ease pain. Tinctures and tonics have also been made to utilize goldenrod's antibacterial properties both internally and externally. Use the flowers for garnish. Cook leaves much like spinach or use in soups and stews. Use both the flowers and leaves to make a sweet, delicate tea with bright herbal hints and a fennel-like scent. It tastes a bit like sweet hay. The healing and calming qualities of this tisane can also ease emotional pain.

Fresh Leaf  Goldenrod Tea:

 Chop leaves and flowers

 

Steep, covered @T in 1 cup of boiling water (or 1T dry)

for 20-30 minutes

Enjoy while Sting sings Fields of Gold.

 

How to Spend a Perfect Weekend in Asheville: The Asheville Wine and Food Festival Day 1

 

 Destination Asheville for a weekend of local food and mountain vistas.

So looking forward to The Asheville Wine and Food Festival.

In a mere 3 hours and 25 minutes my partner in crime and I arrived at The Renaissance in downtown Asheville. The drive was easy and beautiful with the mountains looming in the distance. We dropped off our belongings and hit the streets for a late lunch. The location of the Renaissance is perfect for the downtown restaurant, music, and art scene.



First stop: Curate

We sipped on a Garnacha blanco and feasted on jamón serrano fermin, jamón iberico fermin, jamón Ibérico de bellota, and croquetas de pollo.

 Second afternoon stop: French Broad Chocolate Lounge

We ooed and ahhed over all hand dipped French Broad confections (one of only a handful in the world to make truffles from bean to bar chocolate) and decided on a (giant) slice of flourless chocolate truffle torte. Then we made noises of extreme pleasure akin to an herbal shampoo commercial. It was that good.

Junction's The Local Sage cocktail- beautiful, layered, sage-y, delicious.

 

 Our event for the evening: Elixer- a craft cocktail competition of The Asheville Wine and Food Festival with 12 mixologists competing for the prize. The difficult part for these cocktail makers was the necessary inclusion of Angry Orchard hard cider in their glass. The event was lively and convivial. In addition to the cocktails in the competition, there were many local distilleries to sample. I had my first taste of Defiant Whiskey from Blue Ridge Distillery, a trend that colored my weekend.

View from judge Mackensy Lunsford's seat

Autumn in Asheville from OneFiftyOne a crowd favorite including Shrub and Co. Tart Apple Shrub and Troy and Sons Blonde Whiskey. Tasted like fall. I finished my glass and my friend Monica's.

Winner Kyle Beach from MG Road. His 100 Proof Heartache was a smoky, savory concoction worthy of praise with mescal, apple brandy, ginger, chili, lime... On Friday night I visited MG Road and asked him to make a few cocktails and talked about inspiration. He is Paul Calvert-esque behind the bar- charming, inspired, and clever with his ingredients. He asked my style and I explained in literary terms. What I received in return was exactly the flavor profile I was seeking.

Final stop of the night: The Imperial Life

A favorite of mine and on this night chock full of many of the bartenders who competed in Elixer. I was able to sit with good friends and eat Jacob Sessoms locally inspired food. We sampled much of the small plate menu full of all things raw, cured, and aged, like house-made charcuterie, artisan cheeses, raw oysters, sashimi, tartars. Cynthia Turner was a genius and a pleasure behind the bar. Another place where it is good to say "make me something with____ please." We strolled home under a giant moon satiated and happy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Great New Foraging Book-- Wild Edibles by Sergei Boutenko

I read and purchase a lot of foraging/plant identification books and I definitely have a favorite. It is so old and dog-eared from being read and revisited over the years. I even purchase reissues for new little tidbits of edibles but cling to my old copy. It has always been my favorite, my go-to for identification and information. That is until this week when I received Wild Edibles by Sergei Boutenko. This book is clear, concise, and thoughtfully written for both novice foragers and those who know a thing or two.

My favorite page

This practical guide is chock full of photographs that clearly identify edibles with multiple shots for distinction. I have yet to encounter a book that does this so well. If words (like leaf shapes) are unfamiliar, the reader can flip to the back of the book to find drawings of common foraging words and diagrams. Included along with identification are uses, nutritional information (very detailed), helpful tips, identification tricks, cautionary advise about look alikes, and flavor. He also includes conservation and gathering etiquette.

The story of Sergei's lifelong adventure with wild edibles makes a great read as well. His enthusiasm for foraging and eating healthfully while respecting the earth comes through on every page. He ends the book with 67 recipes that are inventive with flavors and textures and allow for flexibility of wild ingredients.

Not a book reader, or want something hand to always have with you? Sergei created an app with identification techniques, photos, and nutritional information. Check it out here.

Attack of the Killer Tomato Festival

My favorite festival, Attack of the Killer Tomato, celebrated its 5th year July 21 with all the pageantry and aplomb that a beloved gathering of chefs, mixologists, farmers, and tomato enthusiasts could possibly muster. All for the beloved tomato and to help Georgia Organics advocate for our local farmers.

 

44 Chefs representing 38 restaurants paired with 27 local farms and their bounty of summertime tomatoes, many of them those ripe heirloom beauties that have us scoffing at grocery store imposters. It is astounding to me how each year there are so many new and interesting creations from our bevy of talented Atlanta chefs all relying on the same ingredient for inspiration.

Jeff Jackson of Rosebud

Jeff''s "Paint it Red"

Add to the chefs 17 mixologists grouped with both local farms for tomatoes and one of the following: Crop Harvest Earth Vodka, Farmers Botanical Gin, Ole Smoky Tennessee Moonshine, Troy and Sons Moonshine, or Paqui Tequila. Again, the mixtures never seem the same and are the biggest treat of the usually very steamy Sunday fest.

People's choice winner Local Three with Caprese Ice Cream with basil, ricotta, and tomato flavors.

 

 

 My favorite bite, tomato umami bomb, from Tyler Williams of Woodfire Grill. So good I couldn't hold the camera steady.

My favorite cocktail from Andy Minchow of the much anticipated Ration and Dram. Confession time; I had three. The Tajin seasoning on top was so unexpected and perfect.

Hector Santiago's slider. He is now with Abattoir and I cannot wait to see what he brings to the table. 

 Patric Bell-Good's (Barrelhouse) Bloody Mary Gazpacho with pickled corn and okra utilizing Troy and Son's white whiskey. Looking forward to more Troy and Sons at Asheville Wine and Food Festival in a few weeks.

Arianne Fielder of Seven Lamps and her Nest Egg: gin, strawberry-tomato granite, rosemary, and a green chartreuse "egg" floater.

 

Kara Hidinger with Abattoir's Gandy Dancer (loved the tomato foam). Cannot wait for Staplehouse to open. Kara, Ryan Smith, and Ryan & Jen Hidinger is a dream team of goodness in so many ways.

 

Did I mention the dunk tank? Watching Ron Eyester get repeatedly dunked was a laugh riot. He was such a good sport.

Until next year...

 

 

 

Speaking of tomatoes, The Red Gold Summertime Grillin' Party is now live on their Facebook page. There will be a grand prize give away of a Big Green Egg. To enter: click Here.  I use their lime and cilantro tomatoes to make a quick and delish chicken burger.

Caribbean Chicken Burger

 

1 lb. ground chicken

1 14.5 oz can of Red Gold Lime Juice & Cilantro

Salt & Pepper

 

Mix ground chicken and Red Gold tomatoes (drained). Form into patties. Salt and pepper. Grill

 

Serve on a toasted H& F bun or lettuce. Add guacamole or avocado or even a roasted pineapple slice. Top with Emily G's chutney.

 

Asheville Wine and Food Festival

View from Biltmore Estate back porch

Travelers hungry for an authentic food experience need look no further than the Foodtopia nestled between the Blue Ridge and Smokey Mountains. Asheville embodies a social and environmental consciousness that permeates throughout the community. The significance of supporting and appreciating where and who food comes from is everyday life in this region where traditional ways of cooking, preserving, and curing never went the way of convenience. The words "farm to table" are not necessary here. Farm to table just is in Asheville.

In addition to a great diversity of local and regional ingredients grown and raised in fertile soil, Asheville is home to a bevy of talented chefs, distillers, brewers, farmers, and artisans from around the world who collaborate with purpose on maintaining the viability of the local food system. With its bourgeoning food scene, Asheville is both a food destination and mountain refuge. Raft in the rivers, hike through Pisgah National Forest, take a walk through George Vanderbilt's Biltmore, discover the 100 year old Omni Grove Park Inn, and also check out the tailgate markets, a sustainable chocolate factory, hundreds of independent restaurants, and scores of microbreweries fed by pure mountain water.

Mark the weekend of August 22-24 on your calendar for a food driven fete showcasing the connectedness of farm, table, and community in beautiful Western North Carolina. In its 5th year, The Asheville Wine and Food Festival is bigger and better in the US Cellular Center. Presented by EDISON at The Grove Park Inn, here is what you can expect:

 

Elixer

This mixologist competition highlighting many craft spirits from the region (Troy and Sons Moonshine, Cardinal Gin, Carriage House Apple Brandy) includes samples of tipples and hors d’oeuvres on Thursday 8/22.

Jael Rattigan of French Broad Chocolates

Sweet

Sweet on Friday evening will be a sampling of the tastes of local bakers, chocolatiers, pâtissiers, wine vendors, and distillers who will line the corridors of the historic Grove Arcade in downtown. Expect to hear wonderful phrases like "...with sorghum molasses from Doubletree Farm" or "infused with Mountain Farm's lavender."

Jacob Sessoms of Table Restaurant and The Imperial Life

WNC Chef's Challenge

The region's celebrated chefs compete Iron Chef style with the finale happening during the Grand Tasting on Saturday 8/24. Proceeds benefit Eliada, helping children and families of Western North Carolina. You can follow the food fight that has been going on since February here.

 

Grand Tasting

This is the main event including, cooking demos, more than 300 wines, dishes from local restaurants, craft beer & spirits, and sample of artisanal products from the region. Meet the farmers, chefs, restaurateurs, brewers, distillers, and producers while you mingle. This bright finale, culminating the three day culinary gathering, will integrate the members of the Asheville landscape and show the long standing relationships between purveyors and community. And then you will be back to taste Asheville again and again.

General Admission
Saturday, August 24, 2013
1-5 p.m. | $55
U.S. Cellular Center | 87 Haywood St., Asheville

VIP
Saturday, August 24, 2013
12-5 p.m. | $75
U.S. Cellular Center | 87 Haywood St., Asheville
Tickets can be purchased here.

Yum Bunz is Open!

Atlanta has been waiting for the opening of Yum Bunz with eager anticipation. Today is the day to experience the collaboration between Miso Izakaya's Guy Wong and Real Chow Baby's Mike Blum with Executive chef Chris Lee. Plenty of parking awaits in the deck next to the spot. Fresh, quality ingredients served up fast and friendly.

 

The space is bright, clean, and spacious with large booths, tables, and communal picnic-like tables down the center. Hand painted pop art murals are vibrant and stunning to inspect as you wait for your order to be brought to your seat. I can't help but notice the pops of red throughout the space and feel its symbolic joyousness it is supposed to impart in Chinese tradition. This place is cheerful.

 

Griddled pork and chive dumplings.

There is also a vegetarian option.

 

 

The bao--perfect palm-of-your-hand-sized yeast dough amply filled yet less than 180 calories each. They make for a perfect portable meal. A box of six is a mere $8.69. You won't be confused by which bao is which with thoughtful paper labels on the bottom of each.

 

Noodle Bowls: choose a base (white or brown rice, quinoa, rice or gluten free egg noodles), choose a protein (chicken, beef, tofu), & choose a sauce (teriyaki, red curry, green curry, pad Thai).