'e -- Jose Andres' "secret" restaurant

This is what your golden ticket looks like when you are the lucky winner of a reservation to 'e by Jose Andres. It is so fitting. Much like Willy Wonka, Chef Andres is the curator of genius. With my golden ticket in hand I was instantly greeted outside the entrance to Jaleo by Anthony Perri. He offered me a glass of cava and led the way through the restaurant to the secret door to 'e. My group and I were seated at the curved 8-seat bar flanking a cooking area. The small room is edged in card catalog drawers. Things are propped up and hanging from various drawers. My eyes darted to and fro. A light fixture disguised as a corset here, a caged doll there, Jesus, a devil mask, apothecary jars. I was so intrigued. Is this a cabinet of curiosities of the life of Jose Andres?
Frozen Sangria with Grilled Strawberries
The dinner show began with sangria mixed with liquid nitrogen and placed in a simple cup. Smoother than gelato, it had the same intense flavor as sangria, just a different texture,. The grilled strawberries were meant to be eaten intermittently with the frozen sangria. The warm and sweet berries were a great temperature contrast and accentuated the wine's sweetness. The chefs before us were using tweezers and other fine implements for the next course. This was going to be something very special, I could feel it.

Spanish "Clavel"

The Clavel is the national flower of Spain given to us here in a cast of Chef Andres' hand. The flower made of papered yogurt with a dab of pomegranate in the center was ethereal. Tangy, floral, sweet and sour in one fleeting bite.

Caramelized Pork Rinds

Light, sweet, salty, oilless. Perfection.

Beet Jewelry

Appropriately served in a golden jewelry box, these beet rings adorned many of our fingers before we tasted. The dehydrated beet curls sprinkled with gold dust were unexpectedly salty and savory. I think because they were so pretty and sparkly, I expected sweetness. Instead we got intense beet flavor in crispy chip-like form. So playful!
Membrillo and La Serena Cone
The bite inside of a pastry cone began with La Serena, a very pungent soft sheep's milk cheese and finished with membrillo, quince paste. The sour and salty followed by sweet and jammy was a contrast of tastes and textures.
Apple "Brazo De Gitano"
I was forewarned of the delicateness of this course but still pierced my fingers through it. The light apple meringue with blue cheese espuma inside dissolves in your mouth. With a thin strip of caramel and a hint of apple, it was both sweet and salty.
Jose Taco & Artichoke with Caviar and Quail Egg
Gasp. That is what I did when this beautiful plate was set before me. It was almost too pretty to eat...almost. I will remember these two dishes forever. This crispy small artichoke housed a soft cooked quail egg and was topped off with sustainable Rio Frio caviar. The harmony of flavors and textures left me wanting more The crispy earthiness of the artichoke, the succulent creaminess of the quail egg and the rich, savory, saltiness of the sturgeon roe were compliments both familiar and surprising to my palate. I am pretty sure "oh my God" came out of my mouth. From here, I wrapped the jewel colored jamon iberico de bellota around the dollop of caviar and paused. Jamon iberico de bellota is the finest jamon iberico, from happy free ranging pigs who spend their last three months eating acorns from the forest floor of southwestern Spain. I first tasted a small fat-swirled ribbon by letting it rest on my tongue. The supple flavor of the acorn rich fat as it melted in my mouth was supple and lingered like a fine wine. The combination of the iberico and caviar was, in a word, sublime.
Bocata "De Calamares"
This adorable little sandwich was an homage to the fried squid sandwiched Jose loved to eat at the beach as a boy. It was adorable but instantly filled me with terror when Stephanie said the word "uni." I am a very adventurous foodie. I will try almost anything. I love offal. But a date in college where the first bite of sushi lovingly thrust into my mouth was uni scarred me for life. This is not the place to pass on a dish so I dug in. Incredible. The fried uni was robust and flavorful with a bit of aoli on a beautiful mini brioche. The cucumber was the perfect cool and crisp addition. Loved it.

Ajo Blanco

Ajo Blanco is a centuries old Andalusian chilled white soup that is often called a white gazpacho. Made from simple ingredients, garlic, bread, water and oil, ajo blanco replaces tomatoes with the regions famous almonds for a creamy and subtly flavored white soup. The soup is thickened with stale bread and garnished with white grapes. 'e's version is a fun deconstruction. Guests are given a bowl of arranged components: sliced almonds, ground almonds, microgreens, grapes and a granita and then a marcona almond liquid made without cream is poured over. We were encouraged to taste the ingredients separately and then mixed. In this way, each layer stood out when sipping the mixed soup. I loved the sweet nuttiness and could imagine myself sipping this on a hot Spanish day. Here is a great recipe/history page if you would like to make it at home.

During our dinner one of our guests inquired about a wine paired with a course. The lovely and gracious Stephanie walked over to the Underwood typewriter and typed out the name and vintage for him. Such a small gesture but so meaningful. I heard this was one of Jose's favorite things about 'e. He was excited for the bill to be typed out for such an intimate experience. I agree.
Santa Barbara Spotted Prawns with Roses
Luscious Langostines in a sauce made from the head and accompanied by rose foam. Rose is not a scent or flavor I enjoy but here the herbal contrast to the Langostines was lush, fitting and delicious.

Smoky Oysters in Escabeche

This was a fun dish! Kumamoto oysters, encased in a spherification of their own liquid were smoked before us in glass globes using orangewood and a polyscience smoking gun. Along with pearl onion confit they were topped with toasted honey air. It tasted like the sea and the brine hung on my palate. I think I closed my eyes for a minute.

Catch: Charcoal Roasted Turbot with Fermented Black Garlic

This delicate, light turbot had a flavorful scallion dressing and citrus pearls that burst with flavor. The fermented black garlic developed a sweetness in the fermentation process and lost the bitterness and sharpness usually associated with garlic.

Whole Lobe of Foie Gras Baked in Salt

Stephanie brought out the lobe encased in salt before it was cut into generous portions and plated on top a streak of cacao, a tart citrus sauce and edible flowers. The salt casing gave it a great texture next to the smoothness that was this perfect piece of foie. Perfection.

Secreto of Iberico Pork

Much like the foie gras, the large plate of secreto was shown to us before being plated.
Secreto is the meat sourced from between two layers of fat from the pig's shoulders. Three slices lightly grilled arrived on a slate plate with copious amounts of shaved black truffles and chanterrelles. The rich, highly marbled meaty goodness was perfectly balanced by the earthiness of its fungal sidekicks.

Orange Pith Puree La Serena

La Serena cheese returned in this dish with the pungent, spoonable cheese nestled atop spirals of clementine pith puree. The salty bitterness is countered by the snappy citrus and mellowed with pumpkin oil. Toppings of basil and toasted, caramelized pumpkin seeds along with the toasted cheese added texture. Think Food Group has a great video demonstration of this dish here. The arrival of dessert also brought espressos, ports and cappucinos in gorgeous, dainty cups and saucers.

Frozen Apricot Coulant
This fruit version of the ever present chocolate molten cake (which I happen to love at restaurants or to make at home) oozed cool apricot liquid when pierced with my fork. It was bright, naturally sweet, and nectarous.

Apples and red wine "Fredy Giradet"

A velvety quenelle of vanilla bean ice cream with alternating spheres of apple and spheres of red wine encased in gelatin. It was a delectable grouping of sweet and spice that playfully paid homage to Fredy Giradet, a world renown chef who lashed out against modern gastronomy.

25 Second Bizcocho

This spongy cake was given to us with the task "pick it up and eat it." Like a one-year old with her first taste of cake, I obliged. It was airy, citrusy, sweet and light. It reminded me of a cooking demo Richard Blais did on the 2010 Top Chef Tour. He showed the audience how to make a perfect cake in 25-30 seconds using flour, sugar, eggs and a paper cup, vindicating the microwave in the kitchen. This version was delightfully shaped and deliciously moist.

This incredible experience comes to an end with the arrival of a golden box of chocolates, two pieces each of saffron scented milk chocolate squares topped with strands of saffron and dark chocolate "air" with maldon salt. I typically do not enjoy milk chocolate. My palate prefers dark. However, this milk chocolate was light, smooth and flavored and scented with the infused saffron as well as the thread resting on top. I love the tasty bitterness with the chocolates sweetness. The dark chocolate air, much like the bizcocho, melts in your mouth. The addition of salt mellows the chocolate, reduces the bitterness and brings out the cacao. In a nutshell, divine.

At the end of the dinner (say it isn't so) the staff lined up much like a theatrical curtain call and we applauded. The applause was not only for the refined food we enjoyed, each dish steeped in Spanish tradition and taken to cutting edge, but for impeccable service.

I left 'e walking on air after the most extraordinary gastronomic experience of my life. Truly. Jose Andres is a creator of genius. I cheered for him when he deservedly won the 2011 James Beard award for Outstanding chef on May 9. Accepting his award Jose said "Food has the power to change the life of people." On this particular night the food and Jose changed mine.

ONE. Midtown Kitchen Summer Chef Series

Extremely thrilled for this summer chef series at ONE Midtown Kitchen. Drew Van Leuvan is one of my favorite chefs in Atlanta. When you dine at ONE with Drew you get the best of both worlds. He uses the finest, freshest local product with a sophisticated and creative approach to the ingredients. He takes the simplest ingredient and elevates it to tantalizing. Just this week I had his take on asparagus soup: a cool foam of white asparagus over a layer of creamy warm green asparagus. It was as luscious and delicious as it was stunningly beautiful. Fiddleheads were on the menu as well but I chose scallops with foraged mushrooms and pickled ramps.

This chef series will gather some of Drew's friends and favorite chefs to showcase their skills. Guests will be treated to a 5 course summer feast prepared by that evening’s Chef and Drew. Chef Van Leuvan will prepare an amuse and the first and fifth courses while the Guest Chef will prepare the second, third and fourth courses. All courses will be creatively paired with cocktails, wine or beer courtesy of each Chef. A ticket for a 5 course meal, with beverage pairings, will be $75.00. Pick 3 dinners for $200. Pick 5 dinners for $300. Guests can make reservations through ONE. midtown kitchen at 404-892-4111. Dinner begins at 7 pm. Menu themes for each evening will be posted on onemidtownkitchen.com. Just look at the talent coming:

June 1st-Hugh Acheson of Empire State South, 5&10, The National and Gosford Wine

June 15th- Shaun Doty of Yeah! Burger

June 29th- Bruce Logue of La Pietra Cucina

July 20th- Ford Fry of JCT Kitchenand Bar and No. 246 (coming soon)

August 3rd- Hector Santiago of Pura Vida and Super Pan

August 17th- Drew Belline of No. 246

August 28th- Richard Blais of Flip Burger Boutique (sold out)

August 31- Carvel Grant Gould of Canoe

September 14th- Joshua Hopkins of Abattoir

September 28th- Ron Eyester of Rosebud and The Family Dog

Foodtopia for the People

Asheville has a strong history of living off the land and celebrating it. "Asheville" evokes images of the mountains, arts and crafts, natural beauty and folk music. Set at the confluence of the French Broad and Swannanoa rivers and resting in the central area of a high plateau bordered by the Blue Ridge, Craggy and Black Mountains on the east and the Great Smokies on the west, it is no wonder that Asheville's first permanent settlement in 1785 was known as Eden Land. Foodtopia is a movement that celebrates food, drink and traditions, showcasing the pleasure of food with a respect for community and the environment.

At the Taste of Asheville: Meet the Foodtopians dinner on April 27th I fully embraced the localism, authenticity and conviviality that is Foodtopia. With 135 independent restaurants, natural beauty, farmers markets, breweries, artisans and organic farmers, Asheville can center tourism on their iconic foodstuffs. The Foodtopians are great ambassadors for this culinary scene. Their dedication to fresh, sustainable and locally sourced ingredients combined with the geographic distinctness of Asheville puts the city on the map as a gastronomic destination.

I was greeted with huge smiles when I entered Bradford's on Bishop. I slipped in with the crowd and wanted to make them my friends and neighbors. I have been to a lot of these events but never has the vibe been so joyful and full of genuine warmth and festivity. I met the chefs, the farmers, the cheesemakers, the brewers. Each one brimming with lively enthusiasm for their craft.

First stop, Craggie Brewing Company for a glass of Burning Barrel, a bourbon chipotle porter that was smoky, spicy to the nose and a finish smooth as a sip of Pappy. In other words, yum. I tried another that was really hoppy (I like hoppy. I believe it was the Antebellum Ale. Brew master Bill Drew was nice as can be. I was lucky enough to clink glasses with Ale Sharpton and he seemed to like the brews too. I also tried the signature drink of the evening, a jalapeño mojito. Loved the comingling of hot peppers mixed with cool mint.

Laughing Seed Cafe presented a spring green pesto bechamel lasagna accompanied by tasty kale with pine nuts. Here I met owner Joan Cliney-Eckert who owns a 3 acre farm where she sources much of her cafe's produce.

The charming Michel Bandouin of Bouchon made me a plate of French comfort food Asheville style. I swooned over the plate of Lapin a la Moutard with creamed turnips and a salad of roasted beets and goat cheese. Michel spoke of the local rabbits, the mustard he seasoned with and the goat cheese from a local creamery. It was at this moment that I began to latch on as a Foodtopian.

At The Corner Kitchen station I met owner Joe Scully and snacked on his hangar steak with molasses and mustard infused olive oil. Standing next to him was Jamie Agar of Hickory Nut Gap Farms. Scully sources from this local farm that raises grass fed beef and goat, pastured pigs, chicken and turkeys.

Lucia of Ultimate Ice Cream Company was close by to cleanse my palate. I had such a difficult time choosing from the listing of flavors but settled on one of the star ingredients of the evening with roasted ramp and goat cheese sourced from Spinning Spider Creamery. What a great flavor and interesting combination! Throughout the evening I came back to try Brown Sugar Bacon and maple, Blueberry Honey (yum, the local honey) and my favorite, Rielsling Sorbet.

My next taste dazzled all my senses. Zambra put forth one of my favorites of the evening, local trout cakes with micro greens, trout roe and a topping of crispy trout skin. Gorgeous, creative and so inspired. I also sampled a spread of spinning spider goat cheese with leeks on toast.

Jason and Peter of Posana handed me this oh so tender and delicious braised pork with celeriac puree. They explained how it was rubbed with local grainy mustard first. I ate each composed bite with the puree an wanted more.

I spent much of the evening around the cooking station of The Red Stag Grill. Chef Adam Hayes and crew had so many mouth watering local offerings. The pork pate paired with Lusty Monk mustards was a great start. I moved on to a braised bison short rib that had been encased in caul fat and then to goat sausage. Knowing the ingredients were fresh and locally sourced only added to the intense flavors.

Drunken pork livers were intense with the infusion of bourbon. I loved the rabbit rillette on a piece of crusty toast and topped with chef Hayes' pickled rhubarb. This was such an authentic local dish that I didn't think it could be topped. I inquired about other seasonal offerings since I had seen ramps in abundance. Fiddleheads? No. Morels? This illicited a big grin on chef Hayes' face as he handed me a slice of toast with a smear of chicken liver mousse blended with morels. Hands down my favorite taste of the evening--delicate, smooth and composed umami. Seconds later he plated for me a dish of strawberries, Looking Glass chevre, local honey (sourwood) and shave truffles. Yowza. The Red stag is my first stop this summer when I visit Asheville.

French Broad Chocolate Lounge had the most beautiful spread of chocolate truffles and cakes. When I visit I want to try them all, especially the lavender and honey. Dan and Jael Rattigan, look for me.

Bistro Restaurant on Biltmore Estate served up a pork belly cooked in bacon fat then cooked in duck fat. The first bite melted in my mouth. The second I dipped in their ancho cherry sauce. Wow, just wow. A friend saw my food daze and brought by a Mongolian braised bison taco from Lexington Avenue Brewery. So tender and delicious wrapped in a super flavorful corn tortilla. As I walked away from the table Jeff from Luella's Bar B Q handed me a cup of mac and cheese with bacon and offered me pulled pork slider. A friend nearby tried the sliders and proclaimed them delicious.

Last stop was the Blue Ridge Dining Room at the Grove Park Inn where chef Jack Melson was cooking up Anson Mill blue corn meal encrusted Sorrell Creek trout topped with manque choux. Perfect!

I couldn't get out the door without more good coming at me. The Foodtopians told me to make sure I collected a parting gift. I chose a bar of Black Mountain Chocolate but it was a difficult choice with the gorgeous jars of Imladris Farm jams. I did not want to leave such conviviality.

Foodtopia, I get you and I embrace you. I have made my plans to take a foodie trip to Asheville and I already know it is going to be a good time. Hope the Foodtopians come back for The Atlanta Food and Wine Festival so we can return the comity of a shared love of food, libations and gathering.

*Thank you to Spravka Imaging for the photos!

Destination Morocco via The Imperial Fez

Now you say Morocco and that just makes me smile. I haven't seen Morocco in a long, long while..." I hummed this tune during rush hour traffic on my way to a favorite refuge of mine, The Imperial Fez. Upon entering Rafih and Rita Benjelloun's restaurant one is transported to Morocco, its sights, sounds, scents and traditions. Chef Benjelloun takes great pride in all aspects of the meal and reminds us that eating together is more than sustenance. He takes us to exotic Morocco without need of a passport.
The salon is saturated with exotic colors in the form of tapestries, carpets, pillows and cushions. Ornate lanterns hang from the ceiling and framed traditional Moroccan knives and swords flank the walls. Its tented ceiling and low tables that can easily be grouped together are designed for communal gathering. After a hospitable welcome I have left the stress of traffic and have arrived in exotic northern Africa.

The succession of courses begins with ceremonial hand washing. The tass is brought over to your table and warm water is gently poured over your hands and a soft towel is draped over your left shoulder to dry your hands and keep your fingers clean throughout the feast. First dish to be delivered is a cup of harrira lentil soup and Moroccan bread of whole wheat and honey. I drank it and dipped my bread into it. It was so delicious and savory for such a simple ingredient as a lentil, kind of umami.

As food begins to arrive family style at our table, I am enchanted by the emanation of aromas from the kitchen. Moroccan cuisine is characterized by its rich spices: cumin, chiles, paprika, coriander, saffron, ginger and cinnamon. Chef Benjelloun sees cumin and preserved lemon as signature Moroccan flavors. He explained to me just how easy preserved lemons can be created. Perhaps this could be his next how-to video demonstration.

Plates of various salads are set before us. Sweet and sour carrot salad looked benign but was bursting with fresh flavor. It accompanied a cool and crisp shredded cucumber salad with fresh oregano. Also unassuming was the cauliflower salad and the shredded pickled veggies which were heightened by the side of harissa, a paste of garlic, chiles, olive oil and salt. What really stood out for me was eggplant zaalouk. Chef Rafih calls it "poor man's caviar" for a reason. It is savory, tart and satisfying. You can learn make it at home with Chef Rhafi after viewing the first in a series of cooking demonstrations by Chef Rafih produced by Thomas James Photography and Video Productions.

Proof that food does not have to be savory OR sweet arrives in the form of a b'stella, crisp phyllo dough rolled thin and filled with cornish hen (tradition places squab inside), toasted almonds, eggs, dates and raisins minced together, cooked crisp and dusted with powdered sugar. The b'stella has that "made with love" quality that makes a father's food stand above others' to a person. For foods are not just inert objects. They are alive; alive not only with their own transmittable qualities of taste and smell but also alive with essence of their manufacturer. The b'stella was alive with the dynamism of chef Rafih. Watch him create it here.

Quickly our table was covered in dishes with tender, marinated chicken kebabs, a seafood platter and incredibly perfect couscous. Couscous with nuts, raisins and spices is central to Moroccan cuisine just as lamb is a principle meat. Both are expertly developed at Imperial Fez. The grilled lamb chops were delectably smokey and lightly seasoned. The lamb shank seemed roasted for hours into a so-tender, falling off the bone tastiness of garlic, cumin, paprika and cilantro along with a blend of mushrooms.

"And I've just had a taste of something fine..."

The evening began to come to an end with pastries similar to baklava made with honey and almonds. The tass was presented to us once again, this time along with drops of fragrant rosewater. Glasses of mint tea with fresh mint leaves were delicately poured for each guest. As we sat smiling about our shared experience I thought of how a meal goes beyond a nutrative need to survive. There is a significance to "breaking bread." It reminds us of our connection to other human beings.

Chef Rafih will take his feast on the road next month (March 15) when he is the featured chef at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas for a Moroccan dining experience. Each month on the 15th The Cosmopolitan will feature an acclaimed chef for a unique culinary experience. The Cosmopolitan is an incredible destination resort for foodies. The third floor is a mecca filled with inspired chefs surrounding a shimmering three storied chandelier. Chef Rafih will bring authenticity to this Moroccan feast for the lucky few who will be able to attend before it sells out.

"Something fine.."

Spring Fever

This cold winter full of "wintry mix" has me yearning for spring unlike any year I remember. As much as I love comfort food, I have had enough. I want to plant my garden, dig in the earth and eat those foods that only springtime brings. I want to stroll the farmer's market and come home with fresh pea shoots and asparagus. I want to forage for wild ramps and fiddleheads or simply purchase the finds of others.


My hankering became visibly evident as I worked and dreamed at my desk and noticed that my doodling had a theme. Who doodles asparagus? My shopping bags and baskets are ready for the return of the outdoor markets filled with the spoils of Georgia! Why eat local, seasonal food?

• local food is good for the environment: less of a carbon footprint


• local food supports your local economy


• local food is fresher, tastes better and is higher in nutritional value which declines over time. Local foods have ripened on the vine, not in transit.


• buying local gives you a personal connection to your food <----- my favorite!


• buying seasonal, local food follows what nature has intended, when it is fresh, abundant and least expensive.


• local food has more variety. Local farmers play with their crops more and change it up. Ever seen a watermelon radish at your grocery?


• buying local helps preserve green spaces. Your support helps keep those lovely farms and pastures from being developed.


• Buying local helps someone living their dream. I live vicariously through many local entrepreneurs who are happily pickling their way through life.

I am really looking forward to the new Grant Park Farmer's Market on Sundays in addition to these:

Decatur Farmer's Market

Dunwoody Green Market

East Atlanta Village Farmer's Market

Morningside Farmer's Market

Peachtree Road Farmer's Market

Maybe not a farmer's market per se but it is a pretty cool collective of local talent and yumminess. The Irwin Street Market's community kitchens helped many of my favorite entrepreneurs live their dream.