Signs of Spring

I spotted this patch of blue on my run this morning. Veronica penduncularis or 'Georgia Blue' was growing on the side of the road, poking through dirt, rocks, and debris. Its presence made me ever aware of the signs all around me. Squirrels were chasing each other and searching for food buried before it grew cold. Birds were chirping and gathering bits and pieces for nest building. Daffodils were blooming and trees buds were beginning to swell.

This is the time of year I like to pick up Thoreau's Walden and read about how excited he was for things to start budding and blooming. "Walden was dead and is alive again" he wrote. The rebirth of our landscape ushers in a rebirth for our souls.

Soon, very soon, the landscape (and our dinner plates) will be augmented by ramps, morels, and fiddleheads, those harbingers of springtime.

Places and spaces I look forward to in early spring:

Empire State South-- foraged spring ingredients always sing on the spring menu.

Seven Lamps-- Drew Van Leuvan created the most spectacular spring menu while at One Midtown Kitchen. I had ramps, morels, and fiddleheads in one meal. I have no doubt early spring will be nothing shy of dazzling at Seven Lamps. The winter menu has thrilled me over and over.

100 Mile Dinner-- the next dinner is in March. I anticipate lots I local foraged early spring arrivals or some of Nick Melvin's pickled ramps from last spring.

No. 246-- Drew Belline is an accomplished forager which makes No. 246 extra dreamy in early spring.

Ecco-- Remember last spring when chef Craig Richards covered a pizza in wood violets? It was stunning and, I heard, delicious. Morels with fish; ramps with rabbit; a pasta with both?

Miller Union-- The menu at Miller Union always revolves around the week's harvest. Wasn't there a ramp sabayon on the menu one spring? I could see morels in chef Steven Satterfield's creamed rice dish. I swear I have ordered the dish 10 times.

Hot and Hot Fish Club-- Tasting some of chef Chris Hasting's food during early springtime is worthy of a road trip from Atlanta. He has a large network of foragers that make possible incredible plates like "A forager's walk"- a dish I saw him tweet about. Beautuiful. His foraging seminar at last year's Atlana Food & Wine Festival was the reason I purchased my pass. It is my favorite session since the festival's inception.

Atlanta Food and Wine Festival 2012-tasting trails

I brought along my nerdy notebook to Atlanta Food and Wine Festival this year to write down my experiences with tastes. It was a well conceived idea but one not brought to fruition. I simply was having too much fun and making too many memorable experiences to take the time to write. I had even more fun than last year.

Foreshadowing that the festival experience was to be memorable was the moment I walked into the welcome center and saw my friends from The Chocolate Lounge in Asheville. We met at last year's festival over chocolate, Stella, and a hot tent. Since then I have become a frequent shopper of their delicacies and a devoted follower of their business philosophy. The biggest smile was thrust upon my face and we hadn't even clinked the welcome toast for the festival yet.

More on sessions and dinners later.


Here's a list of my favorite bites and sips from the trails within the tasting tents (And now I can read other recaps. I didn't want to be swayed):

Lamb from the lamb trail

Overall favorite from the tasting trails: lamb ribs from No. 246. Falling off the bone, tender, seasoned perfect lamb from Drew Belline. No photo, I ate it too fast.

Whole Pig Trail: (1) Scrapple from City House with sorghum poppyseed agrodolce.

                             (2)  Crispy pig ear tacos from Farm Burger and Farm 255 ...I had thirds.

The tacos were made from Anson Mills Carolina Gold cornmeal and fresh masa on site.

Loved talking to Terry Koval about his tour of Los Amigos masa. It gave time for Whitney Otawka to make me another too.

(3) Charcuterie from Table. I loved the slices of cured pig face.

Southern Sweets Trail:  Tie between the bourbon caramel and sorghum caramel from French Broad Chocolate Lounge

Beef trail: Beef tongue terrine with Swiss cheese espuma from One Eared Stag. Chef Robert Phalen said it was a play on a Reuben. I could have eaten 20 of them.

Seafood Trail: Smoked mussels with fresh cubes of watermelon from Lure. This simple dish with pure, fresh flavors makes me really look forward to this restaurant's opening.

Bourbon Trail: First, what a spectacular trail this was to sample. My favorite sip here was the American Spirit Whisky Southern Mule. Gingery and dangerously delicious.

Fried Chicken Trail: 3 way tie among Rosebud and Cardemom Hill's fried chicken and South City Kitchen's fried chicken livers.

Craft Beer Trail: Highland Brewing Razor Wit. Amazing on the nose and tastes of ginger, cumin and orange peel.  Such a great summertime beer. It was fantastic talking with owner Oscar Wong about it. I was recently in Asheville when he was announced Small Business Person of the Year. He is pretty beloved. When I described the flavors he nodded, noting that I missed only grains of paradise, something I had never heard of but what gives the beer its kick.

Table Asheville

My first introduction to table Asheville was at a table of incredible charcuterie at the 2011 Atlanta Food and Wine Festival. I stopped by their station in the Whole Pig section of the tasting tent many times, not only for the vittles but for the conversation. Jeremy and Matt were the names I wrote down in my little nerdy notebook. I kept their business card and remembered all of their Asheville suggestions. We talked about the local food scene as I tried salami, pate, head cheese and fried pigs ears. I also ate 100 devils on horseback while we laughed and sipped Stella (they had a very convenient location to the Stella table). I talked about the devils on horseback for weeks. Jacob Sessoms house made bacon is an enduring ...I so want to say "taste sensation" here.... His house made bacon is luscious. Those Hickory Nut Gap Farm pigs graze happily on Western Carolina grass and clover and drink spring water. Better than sunshine.


This past week we drove to Asheville to eat and explore what the city has to offer. We had to go to table to give back the love we received at the Atlanta Food and Wine Festival. 

Devils on Horseback

We took a long walk through the streets of downtown Asheville before dinner, scouting out after dinner drinks. Sazarac caught my eye. We will soon be friends, I thought. As you enter table, you get a glimpse of what is going on when you walk by the open kitchen. We were greeted by the sweetest smile, a "cmon on" (I really liked this),  and led to our table.

Our server, Stuart, arrived to take our drink order and welcome us. I was so overwhelmed by the menu that I couldn't make a decision. How to narrow down choices when I want everything? So difficult to decide among so many foraged, local, and seasonal ingredients. It's not even a large menu. I described my cocktail likes and dislikes and he suggested the Carpetbagger. It contained bourbon and sounded perfect; it was.

Crusty bread, butter and the tiniest olives (I really like tiny things) arrived. Wish I had taken photos of the salt and pepper dishes and vases on the table. Gorgeous simple pottery pieces I can only assume were locally made adorned each table.

I finally chose the golden beets, local sorrel, honey yogurt and house bacon. The plate arrived with the beets artfully arranged in a vibrant display. Almost looked too artistic to eat...almost. Moments later the same dish was placed on the table next to me looking equally beautiful yet completely different. I loved this. The beets were incredibly tender, the red veined sorrel tart and crisp, and the bacon crunchy and salty. We also had a plate of devils on horseback and they were just as great as I remembered them.

My entree choice was a no-brainer. Magret duck breast, olive spoonbread, English peas, ramps, local morels and lavender. If only my photograph did it justice. The dish was perfection. It was beautiful and savory smelling before I even took a bite. The duck was cooked perfectly and so very tender (rare for when I order duck). The wine selection was perfect for the dish. Ryan Brazell has created a dynamic list.

My first taste of morels for the season was so worth the wait. These were so earthy, savory, creamy and mellow.

A parting shot of dessert before my date scarfed it down.

I had a glass of Eagle Rare bourbon.

Our check came in adorable fashion, inside a stoneware mug. Little details like this are charming and memorable. On our way out, we stopped a moment to chat with the chef and give our compliments on the meal. We talked a bit about the experience at last year's Atlanta Food and Wine Festival. Jacob told me that he will be there again this year. Sampling his bacon is reason enough to go.

I will return to table Asheville very soon and have already recommended it to friends. Unfettered, fresh, local, seasonal food with an open kitchen, knowledgeable and friendly staff, and uncluttered atmosphere. It works well.

Atlanta Food And Wine 2012

I had so much fun at Atlanta Food and Wine Festival in 2011. Since the moment it ended, I have been waiting to go back.  Today Dominique Love gave a preview of what is in store for May 10-13 2012. Here is what I learned from a smattering of tweets on twitter (from @savoryexposure, @katiebell3, @360Media, @ATLFoodandWine, @vlalife, @ATL_Events and @doveatl) while they were enjoying a media lunch.

• There will be four categories of ticket experiences: tasting tent passes, day passes, 3 day passes and connoisseur passes. I was thankful had a connoisseur pass last year and was able to attend Julian Van Winkle's bourbon session. I learned so much about bourbon in such a short amount of time.  I must have taken three pages of notes. The tasting of Pappy mid morning was quite a treat too!

• Tasting tables will be open for 3 hours instead of 2. My favorite tasting table experience would have to be hanging out with my Asheville favorites like French Broad Chocolates.

• Some of the learning sessions will be on sustainability and origination.  This is right in my wheelhouse. One of my favorite sessions last year was the Whole Animal session with Tyler Brown, Sean Brock and Linton Hopkins. Never had breaking down an animal been sop much fun or so informative. I know how much these three are invested in heirloom ingredients, so I am sure they will be involved somehow.

• There will be a pop up restaurant. Good because I have yet to score a table at Next.

• There will be a southern cocktail hour with celebrated cocktails from each region. I will have a sazarac, please.

• Love these session: Wines for Day Drinking, B is for Italy, Very Van Winkle, Fellowship of Country Ham.

• There will be a cast iron cook off among the Food and Wine's best new chefs.

• The festival will include 14 tasting trails including farm fresh goods, tamales, seafood and beef. (And like last year, lots of BBQ).

• No food trucks this year. This is sad because my single favorite moment of AF&W 2011 occurred at the food trucks. I can still taste the lamb meatballs from gastroPOD . Best bite hands down.

• Craft beers and chocolates will be showcased. Love this. The sessions by Cacao and the beer tasting with Steve Hayes of Terrapin were so fun.

• Fun facts: $150,000 worth of tickets were donated to charitable organizations; the festival had 5872 attendees; there were 104 exhibitors and 124 cooking and cocktail classes.

• I am excited to see how the festival will be better this year. I didn't have a single complaint last year. It was three days of fun.  I learned a bunch, met fantastic people and tasted the best of what the south has to offer. Tickets go on sale Feb. 14th. Best Valentines Day present ever.