fiddlehead definition


fid·dle·head [ fídd'l hèd ] (plural fid·dle·heads) noun
Definition: edible fern shoot: the coiled frond of a young fern, often cooked and eaten as a delicacy

Friday, October 21, 2011

Buckhead Diner rolls out new menu


This past Saturday I had the pleasure of trying out the new menu items at Buckhead Diner and meeting Executive chef Charles Schwab.  The atmosphere was classic as always, just as the restaurant describes itself ,  "nostalgia that's always in style." The staff was friendly, prompt, and professional through each course.  Chef Schwab seemed very enthusiastic about the roll out of the new menu. Signature dishes like  homemade potato chips w/Maytag blue cheese, sweet and sour calamari, and veal meatloaf with wild mushrooms will remain but some newcomers have been added to spice up the menu. There are lots of options for those looking for gluten free choices as well.

A simple plate of white truffle deviled eggs was placed before us. They were lovely with just the faintest hint of truffle and shallot.

The ceviche dayboat was stunning with perfect shrimp and scallops over mango, papaya and shallots. I tasted using the thin and crispy sweet potato and plantain chips. I loved the cool, crisp seafood and fruit with the crunchy texture and slight saltiness of the chips.

Warm fritters filled with pimento cheese were presented on a pool of spicy pimento jelly. Delicious and comforting.  I don't think any of the jelly was left on the plate after we sopped it up with the exquisite cornbread.

I wondered aloud what was coming next when our server placed chopsticks (GA made) next to our plates. From a distance I could see a beautiful pile coming our way and I couldn't wait to dig in. The Spicy "Pow Pow" Rock Shrimp is so reminiscent of Nobu's famous Tempura Shrimp with Creamy Spicy Sauce. And just like Nobu, each perfect bite popped with a tiny explosion of flavor.  This description sounds so generic, but it really was an explosion of flavor. I would fight for these morsels.
My favorite dish of the day was a beautifully put together Cobb salad with white balsamic vinaigrette. The Point Reyes blue cheese elevated it to something spectacular.
Vegetarian flatbread. Loved the arugula and pesto.
Horseradish crusted Maine cod with summer bean and corn succotash.
This turkey paillard was as remarkable in taste as it was in beauty. This thinly pounded turkey breast "Jardiniere" was wood grilled lending to juicy smokiness. It was smothered in asparagus cuts, tiny tomatoes, shaved radishes, fingerling potatoes and arugula with just a touch of olive oil and lime vinaigrette. So light and bright.  The next time I eat at Buckhead Diner, this is what I am ordering.
Last but certainly not least was the award-winning white chocolate banana cream pie. (It won best dessert from James Beard in 1994). White chocolate is not a flavor I enjoy but you should know the rest of the table was swooning.  Recipe to follow.

Ingredients:                                                 Servings: 8
Sugar Dough

1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1/4 cup sugar, plus

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

2 teaspoons beaten eggs

1 cup all-purpose flour, plus

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour





White Chocolate Pastry Cream

1 cup milk

1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

3 large egg yolks

1/3 cup sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 tablespoon cold unsalted butter, cut in pieces

1 1/2 ounces white chocolate, chopped

white chocolate curls (optional)

6 ounces white chocolate, chopped

The rest

1 cup heavy cream, chilled

4 ripe bananas

1/2 lemon, juice of

1 1/2 tablespoons banana liqueur or 1 1/2 tablespoons rum

1 1/2 tablespoons white Creme de Cacao or 1 1/2 tablespoons Amaretto

unsweetened cocoa powder, for dusting top of pie

Directions:

1To make the sugar dough: Combine the butter and sugar in a food processor until just blended (or cut the ingredients together with a pastry blender).
2Add the egg pulsing or tossing to combine.
3Add the flour and mix until it is just incorporated, no longer.
4Gather the dough into a ball, flatten it into a disk, and wrap in plastic wrap or wax paper and chill for at least 30 minutes.
5Preheat the oven to 350°F, place the oven rack in the lower third of the oven.
6Roll out the dough on a floured surface until it is about 1/8 inch thick.
7Gently fit it, without stretching, into a buttered 10-inch Tart pan (preferably with a removable bottom and fluted sides).
8If you do not have a tart pan, you can use 10 inch or deep 9 1/2 inch pie pan.
9Trim off the excess dough, leaving a 3/4 inch overhang.
10Tuck in the overhanging dough, pressing the edges of the crust against the sides of the pan and forming a high, fluted border.
11Line the dough with a sheet of buttered foil (buttered side down) and weigh down with weights or beans.
12Bake the shell until the sides are set, about 12 minutes.
13Carefully remove the weights and foil and gently prick dough all over with a fork.
14Continue to bake until pale gold and baked through, about 5 minutes.
15Cool the pie shell completely on a wire rack.
16Making the White Pastry Cream: Bring the milk and vanilla bean to a boil.
17Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl until pale and light, about 1 1/2 minutes.
18Whisk in the cornstarch until smooth.
19Remove the saucepan from the heat, and whisk 1/4 cup of the hot milk into the egg yolk mixture.
20Repeat once or twice.
21Scrape the warmed egg yolk mixture into the saucepan with the remaining milk and return to a boil, whisking the entire time, boil for one minute.
22Remove the pastry cream from the heat, and whisk in the butter and white chocolate until smooth.
23Strain the custard into a clean bowl.
24Place a sheet of wax paper or plastic wrap directly on the surface of the cream and refrigerate until cooled.
25Shortly before serving time, whip the cream until nearly stiff.
26Thinly slice the bananas and toss with the lemon juice.
27Fold the bananas and the liquers into the chilled pastry cream and gently fold in the whipped cream until blended.
28Fill the cooled pie shell with the filling.
29Gently scatter the chocolate curls over the filling, covering the tart completely.
30Very lightly dust the chocolate curls with cocoa powder and serve.
31To make the chocolate curls: Melt the white chocolate in a double broiler until smooth.
32Pour the chocolate onto a marble slab or the back of a smooth baking sheet.
33With a spatula, spread out the chocolate into an even 1/8 thick layer.
34Set aside to cool to room temperature.
35Push a chef's knife blade away from you through a 4 inch width of chocolate, forming a loose curl.
36Continue to form chocolate curls with the remaining chocolate.
37With a large spatula, very gently transfer the curls to a baking sheet and refrigerate until needed.

Buckhead Diner on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Field of Greens 2011

Field of Greens is one of my very favorite food events of the year.  More than anything, I think it is because of the people it attracts.  We gather on the farm not to look nostalgically but to look forward to sustainability and celebrate local food with the partnerships between chefs and farmers. Many of the restaurants involved base their menus around the week's harvest.

Like last year, the day was as gorgeous as if we had ordered the perfect day.  Before the tasting tent opened I strolled around the market area and picked up some goodies:  tomatoes from a local farm, a jar of Wedgies and Rasta beans from Phickles Pickles and bacon from Pine Street Market. I headed over to the silent auction area to place a few bids to help farmers in need.  While bidding I could check out the vendors nearby. I tried a bit of High Road Craft Ice Cream and smelled the delicious Jittery Joe's coffee while friends bought caramels from Sugar-Coated Radical.

The aromas emanating from the tasting tent was too much and I made my way in. Restaurant areas were well spaced and I never had much a of a wait for a bite. 


Delicious house-made lamb sausage with blueberry pickled onions
 from Duane Nutter of One Flew South

Butterbean hummus with pepper jelly on sweet potato chips
from Leon's Full Service
 

From Brickstore Pub-I could have eaten 10
One Midtown Kitchen goodness from Drew Van Leuvan
#246 African squash soup with pumpkin seeds


Pork pate from Parish

Ryan Smith from Empire State South--deviled ham roulade with pickled veggies and radish on bacon-mustardd crackers.

Robert Phalen from Holy Taco/One Eared Stag
made this trotter terrine. (I may have had more than my fair share)

Nick Melvin of Rosebud serving up some comfort (chicken and biscuits)
Muss and Turner's/Local Three meatballs. ( I had seconds)
Food 101's pork belly slider with kimchee
Chef Justin Burdett preparing  house-made pork sausage, stewed greens, shaved radish
over chestnut puree. I thought he said he drizzled something with thyme over the top. It was
perfect.

Huitlacoche Quesadilla with poblano from Taqeuria del Sol
Huitlacoche is a fungus that grows on corn. It is expensive
and delicious.

 

My favorite dish, Tennessee Hot Chicken from Linton Hopkins
of Holeman and Finch and  Restaurant Eugene.
So hot, so tender, so wonderful. Do you know about Price's Hot Chicken in Tennesee? Watch this


After all the yummy bites and bowls I headed to the  F'n' Chef Competition
emceed by my favorite radio personality, Mara Davis.  Three chefs, Terry Koval (Farm Burger), Nick Melvin (Rosebud) and Eric Ottensmeyer (Leon's Full Service) battled it out with White Oak Pastures' beef and local veggies. 
 Ottensmeyer took the win!
Master of ceremonies, Ron Eyester of Rosebud.

All in all, a beautiful day on delightful Whippoorwill Hollow Farm with delicious food, smiling people, great market items and silent auction winnings. All this fun in the the name of good will towards farmers in need and promoting local food. Can't wait to hear how much money was raised for Slow Food Atlanta. 

Thursday, September 29, 2011

Field of Greens 2011

Field of Greens is one of my favorite festivals of the year in Georgia and it is this Sunday, October 2nd. Celebrating the farmer and the chef, it always has a stellar lineup.  Look at this year's participating restaurants:

Ron Eyester - Rosebud, The Family Dog
Robert Phalen - One Eared Stag, Holy Taco
Jay Swift - 4th & Swift
Stephen Herman - Haven
Matt Swickerath - Valenza
Dave Larkworthy - 5 Seasons Brewing Company
Eddie Hernandez - Taqueria del Sol
Justin Burdett - Miller Union
Matt Palmerlee - Farm 255
Terry Koval - Farm Burger
Linton Hopkins - Restaurant Eugene, Holeman & Finch Public House
Dave Roberts - Community Q BBQ
Eric Ottensmeyer - Leon's Full Service
Cathy Conway - Avalon Catering
EJ Hodgkinson - Woodfire Grill
Linda Harrell - Cibo E Beve
Justin Keith - Food 101
Ford Fry - JCT Kitchen
Drew Belline - No. 246
Lance Gummere - The Shed at Glenwood
Ryan Smith - Empire State South
Chris Hall - Local Three
Todd Mussman - Muss & Turner's
Duane Nutter - One Flew South
Marc Taft - Chicken and the Egg
Drew Van Leuvan - One Midtown Kitchen
Joe Schafer - Parish
Janine Falvo - Briza
Lisa Slater - Dal Cuore Market & Restaurant
Ryan Tittle - Brick Store Pub
Megan McCarthy - Healthy Eating 101



The weather looks to be incredible (just like last year) for a day at  Whippoorwill Hollow Farm, a 74-acre working organic farm located in Walnut Grove, just north of Covington and an easy 45 minute drive east of Atlanta. 

from etsy
                                        

Check out the Farmers Market area:

Little Tart Bakeshop (baked goods)
Antico Mercante (cheeses)
Pine Street Market (artisan meats)
Cafe Campesino (coffee)
Phickles Pickles (pickles)--save me some wedgies.
King of Pops (popsicles)
Nature's Garden Delivered (vegetable home delivery service)
High Road Craft Ice Cream (ice cream)---word on the street isthat they are bringing this:  Tastes like Bourbon with Dark Chocolate Chunks and a touch of sweet handmade Praline. oh. my.
Goodness Gracious Granola (granola)
Indigo Bath & Body (soaps)
Little Red Hen Bakeshop (baked goods)
Fairywood Thicket (jams)
Kriya Kitchen (cookies)
Jittery Joe's Coffee (coffee)
Decimal Place Farm (goat cheese)
David Jeffries Kitchen (biscotti)
Madeline Burdine Jewelry (jewelry)
Cirkelfish Studio (clay)
Back to the Roots (mushroom growing kits)
Songbird Soaps (soaps)
Garlic Clove Foods (quinoa dishes)
sugar-coated radical (chocolates)
Farmer D Organics (gardening supplies)
Great Cupcake Company (cupcakes)
Emily G's (jams)
Sustenance Design (sustainable & edible landscape design)
Beautiful Briny Sea (organic herb salts)
Dal Cuore Market (local food marketplace)
OmniGreen Life/Gia Film Productions ("Frequency of Genius" movie)

FARMERS MARKET: FARMERS

Whipporwill Hollow Organic Farm
Moore Farms & Friends
Morningside Farmers Market
Double B Farm
Darby Farms
Mills Farm's Red Mule Grits
McMullan Family Farm

MEALS FROM THE MARKET: FARMERS

Besmaid Garden Essentials, Decatur
Third Angel Farm, Stone Mountain
Burge Organic Farm, Mansfield
Heirloom Gardens, Cumming
Love is Love Farm, Decatur
Crack in the Sidewalk Farmlet, Atlanta
Native Sun Farm, Bogart
Front Field Farm, Covington
Truly Living Well, Atlanta
Riverview Farms, Ranger
Whippoorwill Hollow Farm, Walnut Grove
Dillwood Farms, Loganville
Umurima (Burundi Women's Farm), Decatur


Get tickets now. Here

This year they have added The F' n' Chef Competition -- an Iron Chef-like competition that will take place in the middle of the day next to the Chef Tent. Three chefs will be selected for the competition. The chefs will be given a secret ingredient and then they will need to prepare a dish using that ingredient and those items from the small food pantry to be stocked by Whole Foods. The dish will be scored by five judges and the F' n' Chef 2011 winner declared.
Competing Chefs: Terry Koval (Farm Burger), Nick Melvin (Rosebud) and Eric Ottensmeyer (Leon's Full Service).

Judges: Will Harris (White Oak Pastures Owner/Rancher), Tom Maicon (Food & Beer Atlanta Publisher) Andrew Sasser (Whole Foods Regional Prepared Foods Coordinator), Julie Shaffer (Slow Food USA Southern Regional Governor) and a judge to be identified soon.

Emcee: Mara Davis of Dave-FM. (how cool is that?)


See you Sunday!



Wednesday, September 28, 2011

A night of cocktails with Our Libatious Nature

On a hot summers night I met up with friends, including Nicky & Katruska of Our Libatious Nature to celebrate a friend with hand crafted cocktails from some of Atlanta's finest spots. First stop, The Iberian Pig
The Iberian Old-Fashioned
Bacon-infused rye whiskey,brown sugar, molasses, Angostura bitters, Peychaud's bitters, orange and lemon twists
I loved the big hunk of ice and the smokiness of the rye. We ordered a plate of Pinchos de Cerdo - Slow roasted pork tenderloin pate, pistachio, golden raisins, goat cheese, roasted tomato, lavender honey, served on toasted bread to nibble on.

The New York Robusto Manhattan
This is way beyond your average Manhattan. This off menu cocktail is perhaps my second favorite cocktail I have ever had. Their secret is a combination of two house made bourbons: a Robusto cigar infused bourbon and a smoke shop bourbon with citrus and spices. The bourbons are mixed with vermouth, Angustura bitters and lavender honey on the rim of the glass. Them stem of my glass was wrapped with strips of cigar leaf, a simple addition that added so much to the experience, as you could smell the aroma with each sip. With this we enjoyed bacon wrapped dates stuffed with Manchego cheese and walnuts...and then we ordered another plate of them.


Seelbach and Ramos gin fizz
A night at Leon's Full Service with Miles Macquarrie crafting behind the bar can be magical. It is fun (when it is not busy) to ask him to create something for you off the menu. On this evening the place was packed so I ordered the special on the board, The Seelbach. It was a wise choice. The bourbon, contreau, bitters and champagne topper was a mixture my palate had never tasted. This is the best part of cocktails, the unexpected delight of flavors bouncing off one another. We ordered (of course) bacon in a glass and a bucket of fries with curry dipping sauce. These are musts in my mind when visiting Leon's. In front of my drink is a friend's Ramos gin fizz. If you ever want to hear the history of this drink visit Tom at Prohibition. He makes a great one and as he does you will get a lively told history lesson.

The Pineapple Express
Last stop, Top Flr. We had a cozy booth across from the bar so we could watch Brian Stanger in action. I would love to have organized recall of what we ordered but this was our last stop of many. I remember someone had a Strange Horse (ahem @MrAtlanta) and someone had a Half Shell that was similar to a Pimm's cup. I ordered jokingly the cocktail Brian made for Attack of the Killer Tomato fest. Ask and you shall receive because there it is in all its loveliness, The Pineapple Express. It was gone very quickly as was the Tuna Tartar on Sardinian Flat Bread with Thai Miso Pesto, Avocado, and Lime Aioli. I wish Top Flr was open for lunch because I crave this on a daily basis now.

Visit the blog Our Libations Nature if you enjoy a good cocktail or the history behind their creation. It's a heck of a blog. I am hoping to bring Nicky and Katruska to the Boom Boom Shaboom Glitter Room Speakeasy someday to show off their mixology skills.

Monday, September 12, 2011

Don't tell me coffee is bad for me

Photo taken an Empire State South
Foam artisans, huh?

Last month I tweeted that I was out of coffee and it was an emergency. Three days later a package arrived in the mail from Dean's Beans Organic and Fair Trade Coffee Company. I don't know who sent this to me but I am grateful and am now a huge fan Of Dean's Beans. Go to their page and read about the company-- Organic, shade grown, Kosher, fair-trade AND tastes great. I love that my beans were roasted and shipped on the same day. The superiority of these beans to the familiar coffe shop bag I had on hand was huge.  The Sumatran French roast was deep, dark, very earthy and a bit spicy.  Thank you anonymous friend who sent me the gift of Dean's Beans.



Next I want to try the Marrakesh Express which is described here:
"The fruity taste of wild-harvested Ethiopian Sidamo blended with the passionate bite of Timor make for a strong and mysterious brew. Feel the rhythms in the corners of your mouth ."

I googled and found that I can pick up Dean's Beans right here in Atlanta at Grant Park Coffeehouse. 
It feels great to purchase coffee and support a company that does so much good. After a bit a research on coffee consumption it also feels great for my health.  Here are the bullet points of the benefits of drinking coffee:
  • lowers the risk of Alzheimer's and Parkinson's disease (Journal of Alzheimer's Disease (Volume 16:1).
  • lowers the risk of liver cancer and protects one from Cirrhosis (Archives of Internal Medicine)
  • diverts Type 2 Diabetes (Archives of Internal Medicine)
  • protects your heart by lowering the risk of strokes
  • lowers the rate of age related cognitive decline (European Journal of Clinical Nutrition)
  • helps with digestion
  • reduces gallstones
  • increases fiber intake( about 1.8 grams of fiber per cup)
  • gives load of antioxidants (more per serving than blueberries), including flavonoids that protect against cardiovascular disease by reducing oxidation of LDL cholesterol
  • cuts post workout muscle pain by 48% (Journal of Pain 2007)
  • boosts brain power by boosting the activity of brain cells
  • it's delicious (I added this one. My own scientific theory)

franks and beans




(image from Brainlesstales.com)

“Ponder well on this point: the pleasant hours of our life are all connected by a more or less tangible link, with some memory of the table.”Charles Pierre Monselet (1825-1888)
Whenever I am feeling nostalgic and missing my dad, I feel like making pork and beans. This simple dish is pure magic for me. We had these rituals, he and I. Together on weekend afternoons we sometimes made pork and beans. No, we didn't soak beans and render pork. We opened cans and used condiments. He especially liked to use Heinz baked beans "because they are English." So, we would open a couple of cans and he would talk about the army. Each time we cooked I heard a new story but he always talked about eating canned beans and how he had perfected seasoning them. He would ask me to hand him the ketchup, the mustard (plain yellow, not the fancy stuff), pepper, brown sugar and sometimes even vinegar. We would pour, shake, taste and adjust until it was just right. Then he would cut hot dogs using surgical scissors and toss them in the pot which would simmer until lunch. We would sit together, talk and laugh. When I try to think about all the important moments of my life, my wedding, the births of my children, etc. I feel this ranks right there and I didn't even know it at the time. I hope that my children and I are creating these food memories as well. They seem to stick, much like pork and beans sticks to the ribs.

This is the power of food. The best meals don't always come from Michelin stars but are remembered so deliciously because of the moment in time and the company.  When I need to journey back in time I just need a couple of cans and some condiments.

Saturday, August 13, 2011

A Pie for Mikey







When I read Kat Kinsman's post on Eatocracy about the sudden death of Mikey Perillo, husband of Jennifer Perillo of Jennie's Kitchen, I cried at length. I have met Kat before but I have never met Mikey or Jennifer. I have only heard of Jennifer's blog. It is a lovely, professional blog by a food writer and recipe developer who has articles and recipes in magazine I love. So much more than what I dabble in here. I feel a connection to Jennie's Kitchen because she has a paragraph about how it all began. She writes:



"...it all started with an article in Newsweek. Back in 1999, my husband, then boyfriend, handed me a clipping about becoming a personal chef. I was 23 and my dad had just passed away—he was only 49 years old. I figured it was time to get cracking on my dreams since there's no guarantee of tomorrow. "




This little blog began the same way. My dad, center of my universe and my very best friend, died a little over a year ago. He committed suicide. There, I said it. I felt like an anchor to the world was gone and even with a loving husband, friends and children, I was lost. I decided to focus on something good that made me happy and makes the rest of the world happy--food. This blog was my escape from the darkness, from the thoughts of guilt and remorse that go along with being a suicide survivor. The food community slowly has been bringing me back to the happy girl I once was.








Jennifer said it felt like time has stood still since his sudden death. I know this pain and I know that even strangers can make a difference in assuaging it. She asked that as a part of her healing process, to make Mikey's favorite peanut butter cream pie and share it with someone we love. I spent the morning making a pie with extra love and I intend on delivering it to a family who not only helped soothed my soul but that of another family in their neighborhood who's mother died suddenly, leaving behind two young children. As Jennifer asked, I will be hugging them "like there is no tomorrow." My love to the Perillo family.



Creamy Peanut Butter Pie

Serves 10 to 12

8 ounces chocolate cookies

4 tablespoons butter, melted

4 ounces finely chopped chocolate or semi-sweet chocolate chips

1/4 cup chopped peanuts

1 cup heavy cream

8 ounces cream cheese

1 cup creamy-style peanut butter

1 cup confectioner's sugar

1 – 14 ounce can sweetened condensed milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Add the cookies to the bowl of a food processor and pulse into fine crumbs. Combine melted butter and cookie crumbs in a small bowl, and stir with a fork to mix well. Press mixture into the bottom and 1-inch up the sides of a 9-inch springform pan.

Melt the chocolate in a double boiler or in the microwave. Pour over bottom of cookie crust and spread to the edges using an off-set spatula. Sprinkle chopped peanuts over the melted chocolate. Place pan in the refrigerator while you prepare the filling.

Pour the heavy cream into a bowl and beat using a stand mixer or hand mixer until stiff peaks form. Transfer to a small bowl and store in refrigerator until ready to use. Place the cream cheese and peanut butter in a deep bowl. Beat on medium speed until light and fluffy. Reduce speed to low and gradually beat in the confectioner's sugar. Add the sweetened condensed milk, vanilla extract and lemon juice. Increase speed to medium and beat until all the ingredients are combined and filling is smooth.

Stir in 1/3 of the whipped cream into the filling mixture (helps lighten the batter, making it easier to fold in the remaining whipped cream). Fold in the remaining whipped cream. Pour the filling into the prepared springform pan. Drizzle the melted chocolate on top, if using, and refrigerate for three hours or overnight before serving.

Please watch this beautiful video tribute to Jennifer and Mikey by White on rice couple .