food musings, gathering atlanta fiddlehead foraging

The Four Coursemen Adventure

2012-01-09T13:45:00.000-08:00

Nancy, Matt, Eddie, Damien, Patrick and Randolph

There is a real magic in enthusiasm. It spells the difference between mediocrityand accomplishment.

--Norman Peale

On a quest to celebrate local and sustainable ingredients, The Four Coursemen are off on a new adventure on the Cooking Channel where they must source, cook and serve a 5 course dinner party of 30 guests in a locale unknown to them before they arrive. The challenge here is really sourcing the ingredients and dining location because whipping up an incredible feast for 30 is a skill they have mastered.

Since 2008 The Four Coursemen have been hosting dinners for 28 twice a month in a cozy Athens house to the lucky online registry winners. Make that very lucky. Dinners sell out in less than ten seconds these days. There is a reason they sell out this quickly. Passion for food, wine, local fare, sustainable ingredients and fun exudes from this bunch. Each dinner is a celebration of their community, sustainable and seasonal ingredients, the craft of the brewer or cheese maker, and the challenge to make it great and never do the same thing twice. Quality components make for a great meal but intentionality is an ingredient not to discount.

In last night's premier episode, Damien, Matt , Patrick, Eddie and Nancy found their Denver destination in their silver information pig (Hermholz?) and headed off for adventure. Upon arrival in Denver, a document case revealed their true destination of Carbondale, a 3 hour drive. Once on the road, they began their pursuit of local ingredients, tableware, accompanying wines, and a spot for the gathering. Here is what they purchased:

Crystal River Meats--purchased 30 lamb shanks and locally harvested hay and found a venue (the owners' brother's home)

Leroux Creek Vineyard--The first course wine. Leroux Creek grows Chambourcin and Cayuga grapes organically. They also purchased freshly foraged chanterelles.

Zephyros Farm and Garden- lemon cucumbers, black tomatoes, and others . All in all, 5 boxes of veggies.

Avalanche Cheese Co.- fresh (4 day old) chevre for the dessert course

Highwire Ranch- 6 Elk hearts, 15 bison bones (for marrow), 10 bison "fries" (testicles); Peak Spirits--gin mash for marinating

Revolution Brewery-a growler of their dark stout (Stout Ol Friend) for marinating; Ela Family Farms- Peaches so good that Eddie said they were better than Georgia peaches. (gasp!); Farmer's market- produce and spices; Sopri's Liquor and Wine- 10 bottles of wine, 12 bottles of beer; Bethel Party Rentals-tableware; from the venue garden-- cabbage, broccoli.

After a heady brainstorming session, the menu was set, the guests were invited and the lamb was braised. Patrick set up the dining area with the same feel as dinner parties in Athens: slightly angled napkins, printed menu,water glass, wine glass and simple flowers. It looked gorgeous, especially with the view.

After guests arrived, Damien rang the dinner bell (well, triangle) and welcomed everyone to the feast. You could see familiar faces in the crowd from the day's shopping excursion.

1st Course: Bison fries with a ring mold tomato cucumber tartare over yogurt, arugula and oregano flowers (tzaziki style). This was paired with an Infinite Monkey Theorem Albarino.

2nd Course: Chanterelle Mushroom Soup with olive oil and nasturtium flowers and leaves as garnish. Guests thought it paired nicely with the Leroux Creek Chambourcin ( I think), as it brought out citrus notes from the mushrooms.

3rd Course: Marinated and seared elk heart over roasted broccoli with a bit of anchovy and topped with bison marrow butter (unsalted butter, trragon, lemon zest, roasted bison marrow and a bit of the anchovy brine). Nancy paired this with a 2009 Lapierre Morgon, (Marcel Lapierre's last vintage before he died). Elk heart recipe here.

4th Course: Braised lamb shanks in hay over cabbage slaw with carrot greens and black tomato jus. This course was paired with beer--a Great Divide Belgium Yeti Imperial stout. Lamb shanks in hay recipe here.

5th Course: Goat's milk ice cream with chunks of chevre with peaches, lemon zest and thyme shortbread and honey basil sauce. Nancy paired it with a Domaine Huet sparkling chenin blanc. Ice cream recipe here.

Cheers to Colorado. Cheers to The Four Coursemen! Can't wait for another episode. I have been doing finger exercises to be quicker when the reservation status is open for a Four Coursemen dinner in Athens. I must admit I shed a few tears at the end of the viewing. I am so happy for a group of people challenging themselves with what they love and supporting local growers, brewers, wineries and cheesemakers. They are good people, on and off the air.

A New Turn in the South by Hugh Acheson

2012-01-05T08:26:00.000-08:00

Hugh has been working on and talking excitedly about this book for quite a while. I picked mine up at his book release party at Empire State South on October 18th and couldn't wait to dig in. My first impression: so friendly and approachable. I know, sounds like a peculiar way to describe a book but the 120 recipes inside are presented in a style akin to a relative explaining a family recipe how-to.

The first item of business in the book is to lay out his approach to food and what is most important to him. local first

sustainable second

organic last

Get a copy here on Hugh's Open Sky page

The photography by Rinne Allen is gorgeous and Hugh's doodles throughout add whimsy and charm. Unlike most cookbooks, I read it cover to cover. I have another cookbook like this, one of Irish recipes. When I brought it home and began to read, I made a cup of Irish breakfast tea and cozied up under a blanket. The writing and ingredients transported me to the foggy seaside and heathered hills. A New Turn in the South really puts into words the spirit of the south with innovative, yet simple recipes. It's not fussy but it's new--seasonal, southern ingredients with a twist. Vegetables play a large role as well as pickling. I love the anecdotes interspersed with the recipes and the homage to the main ingredient that heralds each ingredient list. I finished the book with a deep understanding of the sense of place I taste when I eat Hugh's food. It's a prize on my shelf, like the oysters of a chicken. (It also has a magnificent inscription)

Hopefully coming soon: A New Turn in the South II: This Time with Fiddleheads.

Kudzu Supper Club and The Perennial Plate

2011-11-29T10:20:00.001-08:00

Kudzu Supper Club brings together growers, patrons and chefs to celebrate the sustainable farms of Georgia. Add wine to the mix and an incredible evening of enlightenment and exploration ensues. I had the priviledge of attending one of the unforgettable dinners on October 9th, 2011.

Close to the event date, the secret location was emailed to the guest list along with directions. On Sunday afternoon we set forth to Burge Plantation in Madison, Georgia for an experience I will not soon forget.The drive to the dinner spot was breathtaking, so removed from the city that I felt transported into another time. It was very easy to settle down and relax in this atmosphere. Out of the car, I was instantly greeted by Kudzu founders, Brady Lowe and Cory Mosser and introduced to Daniel Klein of The Perennial Plate. Unlike a usual dinner party, these type of gatherings are always much more approachable. Must be something about a shared purpose or simply a love of food but I felt comfortable around everyone and made fast friends with those around me.Chefs, farmers and diners mingled in the spirit which this enterprise had intended. I don't want to get sappy, but it was a beautiful thing.

I had only been out of the car for a minute before Brady placed a glass of Riesling in my hand. See? Good people. Loved this Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Washington State Riesling--apple/apricotty with a zing finish.

The reception began with a welcome from Brady, a selection of local cheeses, and a bucket of chicharrones and kale chips. I had to physically separate myself from the bucket of goodness.

Made my way to the fire to take in the smells (and maybe a bit of bourbon). Delighted to find Chef Nick Melvin (Rosebud) and Chef Shane Devereux ( The Sound Table, Top Flr)manning the coals. Wanted to scoop this simmering lamb into my mouth.

This was my view from the fire. Dreamy, isn't it?

At the fire I had the first of many of these--Nick's sea salt skewers with seared lardo and padron peppers. Perfection.

Everyone took their seats at the table. Mine was on the side looking down over the lake. Artisan bread was passed along with charred elephant garlic and olive oil to schmear. We also had jars of pickled goodies to sample. I made sure my seat was near Nick Melvin's pickled carrots and pickled beets. They are legendary.

Head and trotters terrine. Nom Nom.We also had incredible lamb pate in jars but we enjoyed them quicker than I could snap a photo.

I loved the joyful tablescapes of happy Burge Farm veggies. The first course continued with a salad of baby farm greens and winter radishes. Food tastes infinitely better when it has just been harvested and eaten on the dirt it was grown within.

Scholium Project Naucratis 2009

Second course begins with more crusty bread that will soon be sopping up the most flavorful broth I have ever tasted. (really) Daniel Klein of the Perennial Plate prepared a Gum Creek Farms whole lamb with Indian Organics foraged edibles. I don't think I took a photo of this dish, mostly because I was agasp at how lovely it looked, smelled and tasted. It was so layered with different flavors and textures. Knowing that the whole lamb was used and hearing the tale of foraging the woods on the property for edibles furthered my love for it. Honestly, there was not a drop left in my bowl.

Sokol Blosser Estate Pinot Noir 2008-perfect with lamb and pork. Tasted of cherries.

Buttermilk sorbet intermezzo. Loved the pickled watermelon rind.

Chef Nick Melvin describing the experience and getting us excited about our third course (s). He puts love into his food. You can't do anything but smile and feel good when he talks about sustainable, local ingredients and heritage pork. He is a maestro.

I neglected to snap more photos of our meal but don't regret it. I was having such a great time meeting the people at our family-style table and savoring each delicious bite. This photo is of my neighbor's plate after he had already dug in. We had plancha crisped sausage (made by Nick) and nardello peppers--yowza, so good. Next up, dry-aged, Gum Creek Farms pork scallops. I think Nick mentioned that they were sou vide which made me realize how much effort had been put into this dinner. He must have been up all night. The "scallops" were perfectly cooked (again, amazing for being outside on a farm) and packed full of flavor from both the heritage pig and the pesto. On the side, but certainly able to stand on their own, were Burge organic spiced greens and a hash of local apples, sweet potatoes and roasted poblanos. Spray bottles of potlikker were on the table for the greens. SPRAY BOTTLES OF POTLIKKER!

Dessert course blew my mind. This is a candied bacon and fresh creme Sticky Piggy Pudding. Sweet and salty and creamy. It was both decadent and comfort food at the same time. I could have eaten 4 of them.

A parting shot at the end of a meaningful evening. Tommy Searcy of Gum Creek Farms, Nick Melvin of Rosebud, Brady Lowe of Taste Network and smiling Cory Mosser of Burge Organic Farm. Taking a quote from Steve Jobs, "And the only way to do great work is to love what you do.Your work is going to fill a large part of your life, and the only way to be truly satisfied is to do what you believe is great work." This group of men, Daniel Klein of The Perennial Plate included, believe in and love what they do and it shows. This was such a great collaboration of good and I was ecstatic to be a part of it. I would dine like this weekly if the opportunity arose. I don't really feel adept at putting the atmosphere into words but being surrounded by happy chefs, farmers, meat magicians (Rusty Bowers of Pine Street Market was there as well), wine enthusiasts, foragers and adventurous diners all bent on a sustainable taste experience was intoxicating.

Buckhead Diner rolls out new menu

2011-10-21T06:57:00.000-07:00

This past Saturday I had the pleasure of trying out the new menu items at Buckhead Diner and meeting Executive chef Charles Schwab. The atmosphere was classic as always, just as the restaurant describes itself , "nostalgia that's always in style." The staff was friendly, prompt, and professional through each course. Chef Schwab seemed very enthusiastic about the roll out of the new menu. Signature dishes like homemade potato chips w/Maytag blue cheese, sweet and sour calamari, and veal meatloaf with wild mushrooms will remain but some newcomers have been added to spice up the menu. There are lots of options for those looking for gluten free choices as well.

A simple plate of white truffle deviled eggs was placed before us. They were lovely with just the faintest hint of truffle and shallot.

The ceviche dayboat was stunning with perfect shrimp and scallops over mango, papaya and shallots. I tasted using the thin and crispy sweet potato and plantain chips. I loved the cool, crisp seafood and fruit with the crunchy texture and slight saltiness of the chips.

Warm fritters filled with pimento cheese were presented on a pool of spicy pimento jelly. Delicious and comforting. I don't think any of the jelly was left on the plate after we sopped it up with the exquisite cornbread.

I wondered aloud what was coming next when our server placed chopsticks (GA made) next to our plates. From a distance I could see a beautiful pile coming our way and I couldn't wait to dig in. The Spicy "Pow Pow" Rock Shrimp is so reminiscent of Nobu's famous Tempura Shrimp with Creamy Spicy Sauce. And just like Nobu, each perfect bite popped with a tiny explosion of flavor. This description sounds so generic, but it really was an explosion of flavor. I would fight for these morsels.

My favorite dish of the day was a beautifully put together Cobb salad with white balsamic vinaigrette. The Point Reyes blue cheese elevated it to something spectacular.

Vegetarian flatbread. Loved the arugula and pesto.

Horseradish crusted Maine cod with summer bean and corn succotash.

This turkey paillard was as remarkable in taste as it was in beauty. This thinly pounded turkey breast "Jardiniere" was wood grilled lending to juicy smokiness. It was smothered in asparagus cuts, tiny tomatoes, shaved radishes, fingerling potatoes and arugula with just a touch of olive oil and lime vinaigrette. So light and bright. The next time I eat at Buckhead Diner, this is what I am ordering.

Last but certainly not least was the award-winning white chocolate banana cream pie. (It won best dessert from James Beard in 1994). White chocolate is not a flavor I enjoy but you should know the rest of the table was swooning. Recipe to follow.

Ingredients: Servings: 8
Sugar Dough

1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1/4 cup sugar, plus

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

2 teaspoons beaten eggs

1 cup all-purpose flour, plus

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

White Chocolate Pastry Cream

1 cup milk

1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

3 large egg yolks

1/3 cup sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 tablespoon cold unsalted butter, cut in pieces

1 1/2 ounces white chocolate, chopped

white chocolate curls (optional)

6 ounces white chocolate, chopped

The rest

1 cup heavy cream, chilled

4 ripe bananas

1/2 lemon, juice of

1 1/2 tablespoons banana liqueur or 1 1/2 tablespoons rum

1 1/2 tablespoons white Creme de Cacao or 1 1/2 tablespoons Amaretto

unsweetened cocoa powder, for dusting top of pie

Directions:

1To make the sugar dough: Combine the butter and sugar in a food processor until just blended (or cut the ingredients together with a pastry blender).
2Add the egg pulsing or tossing to combine.
3Add the flour and mix until it is just incorporated, no longer.
4Gather the dough into a ball, flatten it into a disk, and wrap in plastic wrap or wax paper and chill for at least 30 minutes.
5Preheat the oven to 350°F, place the oven rack in the lower third of the oven.
6Roll out the dough on a floured surface until it is about 1/8 inch thick.
7Gently fit it, without stretching, into a buttered 10-inch Tart pan (preferably with a removable bottom and fluted sides).
8If you do not have a tart pan, you can use 10 inch or deep 9 1/2 inch pie pan.
9Trim off the excess dough, leaving a 3/4 inch overhang.
10Tuck in the overhanging dough, pressing the edges of the crust against the sides of the pan and forming a high, fluted border.
11Line the dough with a sheet of buttered foil (buttered side down) and weigh down with weights or beans.
12Bake the shell until the sides are set, about 12 minutes.
13Carefully remove the weights and foil and gently prick dough all over with a fork.
14Continue to bake until pale gold and baked through, about 5 minutes.
15Cool the pie shell completely on a wire rack.
16Making the White Pastry Cream: Bring the milk and vanilla bean to a boil.
17Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl until pale and light, about 1 1/2 minutes.
18Whisk in the cornstarch until smooth.
19Remove the saucepan from the heat, and whisk 1/4 cup of the hot milk into the egg yolk mixture.
20Repeat once or twice.
21Scrape the warmed egg yolk mixture into the saucepan with the remaining milk and return to a boil, whisking the entire time, boil for one minute.
22Remove the pastry cream from the heat, and whisk in the butter and white chocolate until smooth.
23Strain the custard into a clean bowl.
24Place a sheet of wax paper or plastic wrap directly on the surface of the cream and refrigerate until cooled.
25Shortly before serving time, whip the cream until nearly stiff.
26Thinly slice the bananas and toss with the lemon juice.
27Fold the bananas and the liquers into the chilled pastry cream and gently fold in the whipped cream until blended.
28Fill the cooled pie shell with the filling.
29Gently scatter the chocolate curls over the filling, covering the tart completely.
30Very lightly dust the chocolate curls with cocoa powder and serve.
31To make the chocolate curls: Melt the white chocolate in a double broiler until smooth.
32Pour the chocolate onto a marble slab or the back of a smooth baking sheet.
33With a spatula, spread out the chocolate into an even 1/8 thick layer.
34Set aside to cool to room temperature.
35Push a chef's knife blade away from you through a 4 inch width of chocolate, forming a loose curl.
36Continue to form chocolate curls with the remaining chocolate.
37With a large spatula, very gently transfer the curls to a baking sheet and refrigerate until needed.

Field of Greens 2011

2011-10-11T16:14:00.000-07:00

Field of Greens is one of my very favorite food events of the year. More than anything, I think it is because of the people it attracts. We gather on the farm not to look nostalgically but to look forward to sustainability and celebrate local food with the partnerships between chefs and farmers. Many of the restaurants involved base their menus around the week's harvest.

Like last year, the day was as gorgeous as if we had ordered the perfect day. Before the tasting tent opened I strolled around the market area and picked up some goodies: tomatoes from a local farm, a jar of Wedgies and Rasta beans from Phickles Pickles and bacon from Pine Street Market. I headed over to the silent auction area to place a few bids to help farmers in need. While bidding I could check out the vendors nearby. I tried a bit of High Road Craft Ice Cream and smelled the delicious Jittery Joe's coffee while friends bought caramels from Sugar-Coated Radical.

The aromas emanating from the tasting tent was too much and I made my way in. Restaurant areas were well spaced and I never had much a of a wait for a bite.

Delicious house-made lamb sausage with blueberry pickled onions
from Duane Nutter of One Flew South

Butterbean hummus with pepper jelly on sweet potato chips
from Leon's Full Service

From Brickstore Pub-I could have eaten 10

One Midtown Kitchen goodness from Drew Van Leuvan

#246 African squash soup with pumpkin seeds

Pork pate from Parish

Ryan Smith from Empire State South--deviled ham roulade with pickled veggies and radish on bacon-mustardd crackers.

Robert Phalen from Holy Taco/One Eared Stag
made this trotter terrine. (I may have had more than my fair share)

Nick Melvin of Rosebud serving up some comfort (chicken and biscuits)

Muss and Turner's/Local Three meatballs. ( I had seconds)

Food 101's pork belly slider with kimchee

Chef Justin Burdett preparing house-made pork sausage, stewed greens, shaved radish
over chestnut puree. I thought he said he drizzled something with thyme over the top. It was
perfect.

Huitlacoche Quesadilla with poblano from Taqeuria del Sol
Huitlacoche is a fungus that grows on corn. It is expensive
and delicious.

My favorite dish, Tennessee Hot Chicken from Linton Hopkins
of Holeman and Finch and Restaurant Eugene.
So hot, so tender, so wonderful. Do you know about Price's Hot Chicken in Tennesee? Watch this

After all the yummy bites and bowls I headed to the F'n' Chef Competition

emceed by my favorite radio personality, Mara Davis. Three chefs, Terry Koval (Farm Burger), Nick Melvin (Rosebud) and Eric Ottensmeyer (Leon's Full Service) battled it out with White Oak Pastures' beef and local veggies.

Ottensmeyer took the win!

Master of ceremonies, Ron Eyester of Rosebud.

All in all, a beautiful day on delightful Whippoorwill Hollow Farm with delicious food, smiling people, great market items and silent auction winnings. All this fun in the the name of good will towards farmers in need and promoting local food. Can't wait to hear how much money was raised for Slow Food Atlanta.

Field of Greens 2011

2011-09-29T09:30:00.000-07:00

Field of Greens is one of my favorite festivals of the year in Georgia and it is this Sunday, October 2nd. Celebrating the farmer and the chef, it always has a stellar lineup. Look at this year's participating restaurants:

Ron Eyester - Rosebud, The Family Dog

Robert Phalen - One Eared Stag, Holy Taco

Jay Swift - 4th & Swift

Stephen Herman - Haven

Matt Swickerath - Valenza

Dave Larkworthy - 5 Seasons Brewing Company

Eddie Hernandez - Taqueria del Sol

Justin Burdett - Miller Union

Matt Palmerlee - Farm 255

Terry Koval - Farm Burger

Linton Hopkins - Restaurant Eugene, Holeman & Finch Public House

Dave Roberts - Community Q BBQ

Eric Ottensmeyer - Leon's Full Service

Cathy Conway - Avalon Catering

EJ Hodgkinson - Woodfire Grill

Linda Harrell - Cibo E Beve

Justin Keith - Food 101

Ford Fry - JCT Kitchen

Drew Belline - No. 246

Lance Gummere - The Shed at Glenwood

Ryan Smith - Empire State South

Chris Hall - Local Three

Todd Mussman - Muss & Turner's

Duane Nutter - One Flew South

Marc Taft - Chicken and the Egg

Drew Van Leuvan - One Midtown Kitchen

Joe Schafer - Parish

Janine Falvo - Briza

Lisa Slater - Dal Cuore Market & Restaurant

Ryan Tittle - Brick Store Pub

Megan McCarthy - Healthy Eating 101

The weather looks to be incredible (just like last year) for a day at Whippoorwill Hollow Farm, a 74-acre working organic farm located in Walnut Grove, just north of Covington and an easy 45 minute drive east of Atlanta.

from etsy

Check out the Farmers Market area:

Little Tart Bakeshop (baked goods)

Antico Mercante (cheeses)

Pine Street Market (artisan meats)

Cafe Campesino (coffee)

Phickles Pickles (pickles)--save me some wedgies.

King of Pops (popsicles)

Nature's Garden Delivered (vegetable home delivery service)

High Road Craft Ice Cream (ice cream)---word on the street isthat they are bringing this: Tastes like Bourbon with Dark Chocolate Chunks and a touch of sweet handmade Praline. oh. my.

Goodness Gracious Granola (granola)

Indigo Bath & Body (soaps)

Little Red Hen Bakeshop (baked goods)

Fairywood Thicket (jams)

Kriya Kitchen (cookies)

Jittery Joe's Coffee (coffee)

Decimal Place Farm (goat cheese)

David Jeffries Kitchen (biscotti)

Madeline Burdine Jewelry (jewelry)

Cirkelfish Studio (clay)

Back to the Roots (mushroom growing kits)

Songbird Soaps (soaps)

Garlic Clove Foods (quinoa dishes)

sugar-coated radical (chocolates)

Farmer D Organics (gardening supplies)

Great Cupcake Company (cupcakes)

Emily G's (jams)

Sustenance Design (sustainable & edible landscape design)

Beautiful Briny Sea (organic herb salts)

Dal Cuore Market (local food marketplace)

OmniGreen Life/Gia Film Productions ("Frequency of Genius" movie)

FARMERS MARKET: FARMERS

Whipporwill Hollow Organic Farm

Moore Farms & Friends

Morningside Farmers Market

Double B Farm

Darby Farms

Mills Farm's Red Mule Grits

McMullan Family Farm

MEALS FROM THE MARKET: FARMERS

Besmaid Garden Essentials, Decatur

Third Angel Farm, Stone Mountain

Burge Organic Farm, Mansfield

Heirloom Gardens, Cumming

Love is Love Farm, Decatur

Crack in the Sidewalk Farmlet, Atlanta

Native Sun Farm, Bogart

Front Field Farm, Covington

Truly Living Well, Atlanta

Riverview Farms, Ranger

Whippoorwill Hollow Farm, Walnut Grove

Dillwood Farms, Loganville

Umurima (Burundi Women's Farm), Decatur

Get tickets now. Here

This year they have added The F' n' Chef Competition -- an Iron Chef-like competition that will take place in the middle of the day next to the Chef Tent. Three chefs will be selected for the competition. The chefs will be given a secret ingredient and then they will need to prepare a dish using that ingredient and those items from the small food pantry to be stocked by Whole Foods. The dish will be scored by five judges and the F' n' Chef 2011 winner declared.

Competing Chefs: Terry Koval (Farm Burger), Nick Melvin (Rosebud) and Eric Ottensmeyer (Leon's Full Service).

Judges: Will Harris (White Oak Pastures Owner/Rancher), Tom Maicon (Food & Beer Atlanta Publisher) Andrew Sasser (Whole Foods Regional Prepared Foods Coordinator), Julie Shaffer (Slow Food USA Southern Regional Governor) and a judge to be identified soon.

Emcee: Mara Davis of Dave-FM. (how cool is that?)

See you Sunday!

A night of cocktails with Our Libatious Nature

2011-09-28T12:36:00.000-07:00

On a hot summers night I met up with friends, including Nicky & Katruska of Our Libatious Nature to celebrate a friend with hand crafted cocktails from some of Atlanta's finest spots. First stop, The Iberian Pig

The Iberian Old-Fashioned

Bacon-infused rye whiskey,brown sugar, molasses, Angostura bitters, Peychaud's bitters, orange and lemon twists

I loved the big hunk of ice and the smokiness of the rye. We ordered a plate of Pinchos de Cerdo - Slow roasted pork tenderloin pate, pistachio, golden raisins, goat cheese, roasted tomato, lavender honey, served on toasted bread to nibble on.

The New York Robusto Manhattan

This is way beyond your average Manhattan. This off menu cocktail is perhaps my second favorite cocktail I have ever had. Their secret is a combination of two house made bourbons: a Robusto cigar infused bourbon and a smoke shop bourbon with citrus and spices. The bourbons are mixed with vermouth, Angustura bitters and lavender honey on the rim of the glass. Them stem of my glass was wrapped with strips of cigar leaf, a simple addition that added so much to the experience, as you could smell the aroma with each sip. With this we enjoyed bacon wrapped dates stuffed with Manchego cheese and walnuts...and then we ordered another plate of them.

Next Stop: Leon's Full Service

Seelbach and Ramos gin fizz

A night at Leon's Full Service with Miles Macquarrie crafting behind the bar can be magical. It is fun (when it is not busy) to ask him to create something for you off the menu. On this evening the place was packed so I ordered the special on the board, The Seelbach. It was a wise choice. The bourbon, contreau, bitters and champagne topper was a mixture my palate had never tasted. This is the best part of cocktails, the unexpected delight of flavors bouncing off one another. We ordered (of course) bacon in a glass and a bucket of fries with curry dipping sauce. These are musts in my mind when visiting Leon's. In front of my drink is a friend's Ramos gin fizz. If you ever want to hear the history of this drink visit Tom at Prohibition. He makes a great one and as he does you will get a lively told history lesson.

The Pineapple Express

Last stop, Top Flr. We had a cozy booth across from the bar so we could watch Brian Stanger in action. I would love to have organized recall of what we ordered but this was our last stop of many. I remember someone had a Strange Horse (ahem @MrAtlanta) and someone had a Half Shell that was similar to a Pimm's cup. I ordered jokingly the cocktail Brian made for Attack of the Killer Tomato fest. Ask and you shall receive because there it is in all its loveliness, The Pineapple Express. It was gone very quickly as was the Tuna Tartar on Sardinian Flat Bread with Thai Miso Pesto, Avocado, and Lime Aioli. I wish Top Flr was open for lunch because I crave this on a daily basis now.

Visit the blog Our Libations Nature if you enjoy a good cocktail or the history behind their creation. It's a heck of a blog. I am hoping to bring Nicky and Katruska to the Boom Boom Shaboom Glitter Room Speakeasy someday to show off their mixology skills.

Don't tell me coffee is bad for me

2011-09-12T11:23:00.000-07:00

Photo taken an Empire State South

Foam artisans, huh?

Last month I tweeted that I was out of coffee and it was an emergency. Three days later a package arrived in the mail from Dean's Beans Organic and Fair Trade Coffee Company. I don't know who sent this to me but I am grateful and am now a huge fan Of Dean's Beans. Go to their page and read about the company-- Organic, shade grown, Kosher, fair-trade AND tastes great. I love that my beans were roasted and shipped on the same day. The superiority of these beans to the familiar coffe shop bag I had on hand was huge. The Sumatran French roast was deep, dark, very earthy and a bit spicy. Thank you anonymous friend who sent me the gift of Dean's Beans.

Next I want to try the Marrakesh Express which is described here:

"The fruity taste of wild-harvested Ethiopian Sidamo blended with the passionate bite of Timor make for a strong and mysterious brew. Feel the rhythms in the corners of your mouth ."

I googled and found that I can pick up Dean's Beans right here in Atlanta at Grant Park Coffeehouse.

It feels great to purchase coffee and support a company that does so much good. After a bit a research on coffee consumption it also feels great for my health. Here are the bullet points of the benefits of drinking coffee:

lowers the risk of Alzheimer's and Parkinson's disease (Journal of Alzheimer's Disease (Volume 16:1).
lowers the risk of liver cancer and protects one from Cirrhosis (Archives of Internal Medicine)
diverts Type 2 Diabetes (Archives of Internal Medicine)
protects your heart by lowering the risk of strokes
lowers the rate of age related cognitive decline (European Journal of Clinical Nutrition)
helps with digestion
reduces gallstones
increases fiber intake( about 1.8 grams of fiber per cup)
gives load of antioxidants (more per serving than blueberries), including flavonoids that protect against cardiovascular disease by reducing oxidation of LDL cholesterol
cuts post workout muscle pain by 48% (Journal of Pain 2007)
boosts brain power by boosting the activity of brain cells
it's delicious (I added this one. My own scientific theory)

franks and beans

2011-09-12T10:15:00.000-07:00

(image from Brainlesstales.com)

“Ponder well on this point: the pleasant hours of our life are all connected by a more or less tangible link, with some memory of the table.”Charles Pierre Monselet (1825-1888)

Whenever I am feeling nostalgic and missing my dad, I feel like making pork and beans. This simple dish is pure magic for me. We had these rituals, he and I. Together on weekend afternoons we sometimes made pork and beans. No, we didn't soak beans and render pork. We opened cans and used condiments. He especially liked to use Heinz baked beans "because they are English." So, we would open a couple of cans and he would talk about the army. Each time we cooked I heard a new story but he always talked about eating canned beans and how he had perfected seasoning them. He would ask me to hand him the ketchup, the mustard (plain yellow, not the fancy stuff), pepper, brown sugar and sometimes even vinegar. We would pour, shake, taste and adjust until it was just right. Then he would cut hot dogs using surgical scissors and toss them in the pot which would simmer until lunch. We would sit together, talk and laugh. When I try to think about all the important moments of my life, my wedding, the births of my children, etc. I feel this ranks right there and I didn't even know it at the time. I hope that my children and I are creating these food memories as well. They seem to stick, much like pork and beans sticks to the ribs.

This is the power of food. The best meals don't always come from Michelin stars but are remembered so deliciously because of the moment in time and the company. When I need to journey back in time I just need a couple of cans and some condiments.

A Pie for Mikey

2011-08-13T08:06:00.000-07:00

When I read Kat Kinsman's post on Eatocracy about the sudden death of Mikey Perillo, husband of Jennifer Perillo of Jennie's Kitchen, I cried at length. I have met Kat before but I have never met Mikey or Jennifer. I have only heard of Jennifer's blog. It is a lovely, professional blog by a food writer and recipe developer who has articles and recipes in magazine I love. So much more than what I dabble in here. I feel a connection to Jennie's Kitchen because she has a paragraph about how it all began. She writes:

"...it all started with an article in Newsweek. Back in 1999, my husband, then boyfriend, handed me a clipping about becoming a personal chef. I was 23 and my dad had just passed away—he was only 49 years old. I figured it was time to get cracking on my dreams since there's no guarantee of tomorrow. "

This little blog began the same way. My dad, center of my universe and my very best friend, died a little over a year ago. He committed suicide. There, I said it. I felt like an anchor to the world was gone and even with a loving husband, friends and children, I was lost. I decided to focus on something good that made me happy and makes the rest of the world happy--food. This blog was my escape from the darkness, from the thoughts of guilt and remorse that go along with being a suicide survivor. The food community slowly has been bringing me back to the happy girl I once was.

Jennifer said it felt like time has stood still since his sudden death. I know this pain and I know that even strangers can make a difference in assuaging it. She asked that as a part of her healing process, to make Mikey's favorite peanut butter cream pie and share it with someone we love. I spent the morning making a pie with extra love and I intend on delivering it to a family who not only helped soothed my soul but that of another family in their neighborhood who's mother died suddenly, leaving behind two young children. As Jennifer asked, I will be hugging them "like there is no tomorrow." My love to the Perillo family.

Creamy Peanut Butter Pie

Serves 10 to 12

8 ounces chocolate cookies

4 tablespoons butter, melted

4 ounces finely chopped chocolate or semi-sweet chocolate chips

1/4 cup chopped peanuts

1 cup heavy cream

8 ounces cream cheese

1 cup creamy-style peanut butter

1 cup confectioner's sugar

1 – 14 ounce can sweetened condensed milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Add the cookies to the bowl of a food processor and pulse into fine crumbs. Combine melted butter and cookie crumbs in a small bowl, and stir with a fork to mix well. Press mixture into the bottom and 1-inch up the sides of a 9-inch springform pan.

Melt the chocolate in a double boiler or in the microwave. Pour over bottom of cookie crust and spread to the edges using an off-set spatula. Sprinkle chopped peanuts over the melted chocolate. Place pan in the refrigerator while you prepare the filling.

Pour the heavy cream into a bowl and beat using a stand mixer or hand mixer until stiff peaks form. Transfer to a small bowl and store in refrigerator until ready to use. Place the cream cheese and peanut butter in a deep bowl. Beat on medium speed until light and fluffy. Reduce speed to low and gradually beat in the confectioner's sugar. Add the sweetened condensed milk, vanilla extract and lemon juice. Increase speed to medium and beat until all the ingredients are combined and filling is smooth.

Stir in 1/3 of the whipped cream into the filling mixture (helps lighten the batter, making it easier to fold in the remaining whipped cream). Fold in the remaining whipped cream. Pour the filling into the prepared springform pan. Drizzle the melted chocolate on top, if using, and refrigerate for three hours or overnight before serving.

Please watch this beautiful video tribute to Jennifer and Mikey by White on rice couple .

Attack of the Killer Tomato Festival

2011-07-19T07:56:00.000-07:00

The tomato: seductively red with sensuous curves and flesh bursting with juice. What better gift of summertime to have for a muse? On Sunday July 17,2011 hundreds of fanciers converged at JCT Kitchen to taste and toast the heirloom jewels from local gardens on a dazzling summer day.

I look forward to Attack of the Killer Tomato Festival each year. Along with Field of Greens, it is my favorite gathering of chefs, mixologists, farmers and the food community. Not only is it an homage to the mighty mater but proceeds benefit Georgia Organics, a non profit close to my heart. Sunday's event raised nearly $40,000!

The tomato has come a long way from being banned by the Church of Rome as "the devil's fruit" to being the "benign majesty" it is today. I re-read Pablo Neruda's "Ode to Tomatoes" in preparation for Sunday's fete. In the poem he writes, "at the midpoint of summer, the tomato, star of the earth, recurrent and fertile star..." I thought of that line all day as people discussed the beauty, flavor and totality of the tomato. I wasn't the only one feeling poetic about the tomato.

Aside from a few different chefs and mixologists this year's fest was much the same as last year's festivities. I loved how the bridge was utilized this year to give more space to stations and spread out the crowd. I didn't follow a route on my way. I probably crossed the bridge 4 or 5 times as I flitted about, occasionally stopping to listen to The Spazmatics and Five Bone Rack, composed of chefs Ford Fry, gary Mennie, Jamie Adams, Zeb Stevenson and Justin Brogdon.

I didn't take many photos this year which made the experience all the more enjoyable. I immersed myself in the moment. Besides, I can just look at Savory Exposure's gorgeous photos here.

My first bite came from Chris Neff of Sprig who was inspired by French lore of the tomato's aphrodisiac qualities. Chef Neff filled different heirloom "love apples" from Noring Farms with summer heirloom tomato salad and red snapper ceviche. This was the only station where you could catch festival goers feeding one another their pomme d' amour. This delicate bite made with a watermelon-looking varietal was one of my favorites of the day-gorgeous, delicious, fresh and fun.

And we were off! A roasted tomato galette with bacon horseradish creme fraiche from Jessica Hanners of Souper Jenny, incredible heritage breed pork trotters and sungold tomato salad with guanciale vinaigrette from Matt Palmerlee of Farm 255 and a killer pimento cheese sandwich with sliced tomatoes, pickled green tomato relish and bacon from Farm Burger. It was great fun watching chef Terry Koval toast the bread while we nibbled.

Craig Richards of La Tavola had the most amazing octopus salad with heirloom tomatoes, Thai basil and chili melon with tomatoes from Yoder Family Farm. It was bright, fresh, colorful and the octopus was super soft and tender. Craig explained a Mediterranean tenderizing technique that involves simmering the octopus along with wine corks. Truth or old wives tale; who knows? It works for Craig. The octopus was perfect.

I loved Drew Van Leuvan's dish- a tomato ceviche (Dillwood Farms) with lemon verbena, white chocolate and horseradish granita. Tasting it was one of those rare instances when the flavor combination was something never before experienced. It was graceful and dainty, savory and robust. Pretty sure I grabbed Drew's hand and said "this is so good" to which he replied "I know!" He always surprises and delights me at One Midtown Kitchen. Another I really loved with similar lightness was Empire State South's tomatoes with flowering basil, shoyu-tomato vinaigrette and fromage blanc. Lush flavors and local ingredients are just what I expected of chefs Hugh Acheson and Ryan Smith. Hugs and big smiles were great bonuses.

Two of my favorites that I could eat as an entree: Miller Union's Steven Satterfield served up shrimp, tomato (Love is Love Farm), okra and hot pepper over rice grits. Hot and Hot Fish Club's Chris Hastings had the most beautiful head-on Florida hoppers with heirloom tomatoes, grilled Vidalia onion, avocados and a basil lime vinaigrette. Holy smokes, they were lobster-like in flavor.

My votes for best booths would be Linton Hopkins' of Holeman and Finch and Restaurant Eugene and Hector Santiago of Pura Vida. Behind the H&F/Eugene area were perfect logos from the restaurants created out of toothpicks and cherry tomatoes. Ingenious. Pura Vida's booth had house cured meat hanging alongside a pig face complete with earring and tomato in it's mouth. The best part, besides his amazing "Montadtod de Tomates", was the display holder he made the night before. He laughed about hammering out the the metal late at night after I complimented him on it. He went into incredible detail about the tomato creama inside his beautiful bite. As he always says, "heart and balls." He never phones it in.

My three favorite creative (and delicious) bites:

Pimento Cheese profiterole with tomato jam- Patric Bell of West Egg. Exquisite and delectable.
Tomato and charred watermelon pop- Matt Adolfi of Floataway Cafe. Sweet, savory, cool.
Heirloom salsa gelee with shrimp ceviche, tortilla powder and micro cilantro- Cooper Miller of The Feed Store Restaurant. Colorful and amazing in texture and taste. Putting all the bits together tasted like a bite of chips and salsa. Yum-my.

Soup on a hot day? Yes, please. I loved Shaun Doty of YEAH! Burger's smokes tomato soup with mussels even on such a warm afternoon. Tomatoes go very well with the salt of the sea. Jay Swift of 4th and Swift cooled my palate after a spicy dish. His tomato melon gazpacho was velvety, soft and delightfully topped with a slice of crisp radish. Cooler still was Ron Eyester's chilled bloody Mary soup with Celia's cherry tomatoes and crumbled farm egg which could be enjoyed inside JCT. I love the green tomato bloody Mary that is seasonal at his restaurant, Rosebud as much as I adored the tomato lemonade champagne he served in The Family Dog cups at the festival. He said it was inspired by Kat Kinsman's tomato lemonade mocktail recipe found here in Food and Wine.

Speaking of cocktails, the mixologists of The Attack of the Killer Tomato were extremely inventive. I liked all but one. Stand outs:

Tomatina Punch- Kellie Thorn of Empire State South. Loved the tomato foam from Woodland Gardens tomatoes and the lavender bitters.
Rio Rosa Swizzle- Paul Calvert & Raul Aparcana of Pura Vida
The Pineapple Express- Brian Stanger of Top Flr
Scoundrel's Waltz- Kevin Bragg of 4th and Swift

Here are the winners as judged by the people and the celebrity judges, including Kate Krader (a senior editor of Food and Wine Magazine), Andrew Knowlton (restaurant editor of Bon Appetit magazine, Carolyn O'Neil (registered dietitian and columnist for the AJC), and Cybil Wallace (features editor at CNN.com):

Best Booth: Linton Hopkins of restaurant Eugene & Holeman and Finch Public House
Best Presentation: Hector Santiago of Pura vida
Best taste: Andy Carson of Bacchanalia
Best Cocktail: Miles MacqQuarrie of Leon's Full Service
Special mention: Donald Sargent of Morelli's Gourmet Ice Cream and Desserts

Peoples Choice

Best Dish: Eddie Hernandez of Taqueria del Sol
Best cocktail: Paul Calvert and Raul Aparcana of Pura Vida

I can't wait for next year!

'e -- Jose Andres' "secret" restaurant

2011-05-25T06:27:00.000-07:00

This is what your golden ticket looks like when you are the lucky winner of a reservation to 'e by Jose Andres. It is so fitting. Much like Willy Wonka, Chef Andres is the curator of genius. With my golden ticket in hand I was instantly greeted outside the entrance to Jaleo by Anthony Perri. He offered me a glass of cava and led the way through the restaurant to the secret door to 'e. My group and I were seated at the curved 8-seat bar flanking a cooking area. The small room is edged in card catalog drawers. Things are propped up and hanging from various drawers. My eyes darted to and fro. A light fixture disguised as a corset here, a caged doll there, Jesus, a devil mask, apothecary jars. I was so intrigued. Is this a cabinet of curiosities of the life of Jose Andres?
Frozen Sangria with Grilled Strawberries
The dinner show began with sangria mixed with liquid nitrogen and placed in a simple cup. Smoother than gelato, it had the same intense flavor as sangria, just a different texture,. The grilled strawberries were meant to be eaten intermittently with the frozen sangria. The warm and sweet berries were a great temperature contrast and accentuated the wine's sweetness. The chefs before us were using tweezers and other fine implements for the next course. This was going to be something very special, I could feel it.

Spanish "Clavel"

The Clavel is the national flower of Spain given to us here in a cast of Chef Andres' hand. The flower made of papered yogurt with a dab of pomegranate in the center was ethereal. Tangy, floral, sweet and sour in one fleeting bite.

Caramelized Pork Rinds

Light, sweet, salty, oilless. Perfection.

Beet Jewelry

Appropriately served in a golden jewelry box, these beet rings adorned many of our fingers before we tasted. The dehydrated beet curls sprinkled with gold dust were unexpectedly salty and savory. I think because they were so pretty and sparkly, I expected sweetness. Instead we got intense beet flavor in crispy chip-like form. So playful!
Membrillo and La Serena Cone
The bite inside of a pastry cone began with La Serena, a very pungent soft sheep's milk cheese and finished with membrillo, quince paste. The sour and salty followed by sweet and jammy was a contrast of tastes and textures.
Apple "Brazo De Gitano"
I was forewarned of the delicateness of this course but still pierced my fingers through it. The light apple meringue with blue cheese espuma inside dissolves in your mouth. With a thin strip of caramel and a hint of apple, it was both sweet and salty.
Jose Taco & Artichoke with Caviar and Quail Egg
Gasp. That is what I did when this beautiful plate was set before me. It was almost too pretty to eat...almost. I will remember these two dishes forever. This crispy small artichoke housed a soft cooked quail egg and was topped off with sustainable Rio Frio caviar. The harmony of flavors and textures left me wanting more The crispy earthiness of the artichoke, the succulent creaminess of the quail egg and the rich, savory, saltiness of the sturgeon roe were compliments both familiar and surprising to my palate. I am pretty sure "oh my God" came out of my mouth. From here, I wrapped the jewel colored jamon iberico de bellota around the dollop of caviar and paused. Jamon iberico de bellota is the finest jamon iberico, from happy free ranging pigs who spend their last three months eating acorns from the forest floor of southwestern Spain. I first tasted a small fat-swirled ribbon by letting it rest on my tongue. The supple flavor of the acorn rich fat as it melted in my mouth was supple and lingered like a fine wine. The combination of the iberico and caviar was, in a word, sublime.
Bocata "De Calamares"
This adorable little sandwich was an homage to the fried squid sandwiched Jose loved to eat at the beach as a boy. It was adorable but instantly filled me with terror when Stephanie said the word "uni." I am a very adventurous foodie. I will try almost anything. I love offal. But a date in college where the first bite of sushi lovingly thrust into my mouth was uni scarred me for life. This is not the place to pass on a dish so I dug in. Incredible. The fried uni was robust and flavorful with a bit of aoli on a beautiful mini brioche. The cucumber was the perfect cool and crisp addition. Loved it.

Ajo Blanco

Ajo Blanco is a centuries old Andalusian chilled white soup that is often called a white gazpacho. Made from simple ingredients, garlic, bread, water and oil, ajo blanco replaces tomatoes with the regions famous almonds for a creamy and subtly flavored white soup. The soup is thickened with stale bread and garnished with white grapes. 'e's version is a fun deconstruction. Guests are given a bowl of arranged components: sliced almonds, ground almonds, microgreens, grapes and a granita and then a marcona almond liquid made without cream is poured over. We were encouraged to taste the ingredients separately and then mixed. In this way, each layer stood out when sipping the mixed soup. I loved the sweet nuttiness and could imagine myself sipping this on a hot Spanish day. Here is a great recipe/history page if you would like to make it at home.

During our dinner one of our guests inquired about a wine paired with a course. The lovely and gracious Stephanie walked over to the Underwood typewriter and typed out the name and vintage for him. Such a small gesture but so meaningful. I heard this was one of Jose's favorite things about 'e. He was excited for the bill to be typed out for such an intimate experience. I agree.
Santa Barbara Spotted Prawns with Roses
Luscious Langostines in a sauce made from the head and accompanied by rose foam. Rose is not a scent or flavor I enjoy but here the herbal contrast to the Langostines was lush, fitting and delicious.

Smoky Oysters in Escabeche

This was a fun dish! Kumamoto oysters, encased in a spherification of their own liquid were smoked before us in glass globes using orangewood and a polyscience smoking gun. Along with pearl onion confit they were topped with toasted honey air. It tasted like the sea and the brine hung on my palate. I think I closed my eyes for a minute.

Catch: Charcoal Roasted Turbot with Fermented Black Garlic

This delicate, light turbot had a flavorful scallion dressing and citrus pearls that burst with flavor. The fermented black garlic developed a sweetness in the fermentation process and lost the bitterness and sharpness usually associated with garlic.

Whole Lobe of Foie Gras Baked in Salt

Stephanie brought out the lobe encased in salt before it was cut into generous portions and plated on top a streak of cacao, a tart citrus sauce and edible flowers. The salt casing gave it a great texture next to the smoothness that was this perfect piece of foie. Perfection.

Secreto of Iberico Pork

Much like the foie gras, the large plate of secreto was shown to us before being plated.
Secreto is the meat sourced from between two layers of fat from the pig's shoulders. Three slices lightly grilled arrived on a slate plate with copious amounts of shaved black truffles and chanterrelles. The rich, highly marbled meaty goodness was perfectly balanced by the earthiness of its fungal sidekicks.

Orange Pith Puree La Serena

La Serena cheese returned in this dish with the pungent, spoonable cheese nestled atop spirals of clementine pith puree. The salty bitterness is countered by the snappy citrus and mellowed with pumpkin oil. Toppings of basil and toasted, caramelized pumpkin seeds along with the toasted cheese added texture. Think Food Group has a great video demonstration of this dish here. The arrival of dessert also brought espressos, ports and cappucinos in gorgeous, dainty cups and saucers.

Frozen Apricot Coulant
This fruit version of the ever present chocolate molten cake (which I happen to love at restaurants or to make at home) oozed cool apricot liquid when pierced with my fork. It was bright, naturally sweet, and nectarous.

Apples and red wine "Fredy Giradet"

A velvety quenelle of vanilla bean ice cream with alternating spheres of apple and spheres of red wine encased in gelatin. It was a delectable grouping of sweet and spice that playfully paid homage to Fredy Giradet, a world renown chef who lashed out against modern gastronomy.

25 Second Bizcocho

This spongy cake was given to us with the task "pick it up and eat it." Like a one-year old with her first taste of cake, I obliged. It was airy, citrusy, sweet and light. It reminded me of a cooking demo Richard Blais did on the 2010 Top Chef Tour. He showed the audience how to make a perfect cake in 25-30 seconds using flour, sugar, eggs and a paper cup, vindicating the microwave in the kitchen. This version was delightfully shaped and deliciously moist.

This incredible experience comes to an end with the arrival of a golden box of chocolates, two pieces each of saffron scented milk chocolate squares topped with strands of saffron and dark chocolate "air" with maldon salt. I typically do not enjoy milk chocolate. My palate prefers dark. However, this milk chocolate was light, smooth and flavored and scented with the infused saffron as well as the thread resting on top. I love the tasty bitterness with the chocolates sweetness. The dark chocolate air, much like the bizcocho, melts in your mouth. The addition of salt mellows the chocolate, reduces the bitterness and brings out the cacao. In a nutshell, divine.

At the end of the dinner (say it isn't so) the staff lined up much like a theatrical curtain call and we applauded. The applause was not only for the refined food we enjoyed, each dish steeped in Spanish tradition and taken to cutting edge, but for impeccable service.

I left 'e walking on air after the most extraordinary gastronomic experience of my life. Truly. Jose Andres is a creator of genius. I cheered for him when he deservedly won the 2011 James Beard award for Outstanding chef on May 9. Accepting his award Jose said "Food has the power to change the life of people." On this particular night the food and Jose changed mine.

ONE. Midtown Kitchen Summer Chef Series

2011-05-24T08:37:00.000-07:00

Extremely thrilled for this summer chef series at ONE Midtown Kitchen. Drew Van Leuvan is one of my favorite chefs in Atlanta. When you dine at ONE with Drew you get the best of both worlds. He uses the finest, freshest local product with a sophisticated and creative approach to the ingredients. He takes the simplest ingredient and elevates it to tantalizing. Just this week I had his take on asparagus soup: a cool foam of white asparagus over a layer of creamy warm green asparagus. It was as luscious and delicious as it was stunningly beautiful. Fiddleheads were on the menu as well but I chose scallops with foraged mushrooms and pickled ramps.

This chef series will gather some of Drew's friends and favorite chefs to showcase their skills. Guests will be treated to a 5 course summer feast prepared by that evening’s Chef and Drew. Chef Van Leuvan will prepare an amuse and the first and fifth courses while the Guest Chef will prepare the second, third and fourth courses. All courses will be creatively paired with cocktails, wine or beer courtesy of each Chef. A ticket for a 5 course meal, with beverage pairings, will be $75.00. Pick 3 dinners for $200. Pick 5 dinners for $300. Guests can make reservations through ONE. midtown kitchen at 404-892-4111. Dinner begins at 7 pm. Menu themes for each evening will be posted on onemidtownkitchen.com. Just look at the talent coming:

June 1st-Hugh Acheson of Empire State South, 5&10, The National and Gosford Wine

June 15th- Shaun Doty of Yeah! Burger

June 29th- Bruce Logue of La Pietra Cucina

July 20th- Ford Fry of JCT Kitchenand Bar and No. 246 (coming soon)

August 3rd- Hector Santiago of Pura Vida and Super Pan

August 17th- Drew Belline of No. 246

August 28th- Richard Blais of Flip Burger Boutique (sold out)

August 31- Carvel Grant Gould of Canoe

September 14th- Joshua Hopkins of Abattoir

September 28th- Ron Eyester of Rosebud and The Family Dog

Foodtopia for the People

2011-04-29T10:44:00.000-07:00

Asheville has a strong history of living off the land and celebrating it. "Asheville" evokes images of the mountains, arts and crafts, natural beauty and folk music. Set at the confluence of the French Broad and Swannanoa rivers and resting in the central area of a high plateau bordered by the Blue Ridge, Craggy and Black Mountains on the east and the Great Smokies on the west, it is no wonder that Asheville's first permanent settlement in 1785 was known as Eden Land. Foodtopia is a movement that celebrates food, drink and traditions, showcasing the pleasure of food with a respect for community and the environment.

At the Taste of Asheville: Meet the Foodtopians dinner on April 27th I fully embraced the localism, authenticity and conviviality that is Foodtopia. With 135 independent restaurants, natural beauty, farmers markets, breweries, artisans and organic farmers, Asheville can center tourism on their iconic foodstuffs. The Foodtopians are great ambassadors for this culinary scene. Their dedication to fresh, sustainable and locally sourced ingredients combined with the geographic distinctness of Asheville puts the city on the map as a gastronomic destination.

I was greeted with huge smiles when I entered Bradford's on Bishop. I slipped in with the crowd and wanted to make them my friends and neighbors. I have been to a lot of these events but never has the vibe been so joyful and full of genuine warmth and festivity. I met the chefs, the farmers, the cheesemakers, the brewers. Each one brimming with lively enthusiasm for their craft.

First stop, Craggie Brewing Company for a glass of Burning Barrel, a bourbon chipotle porter that was smoky, spicy to the nose and a finish smooth as a sip of Pappy. In other words, yum. I tried another that was really hoppy (I like hoppy. I believe it was the Antebellum Ale. Brew master Bill Drew was nice as can be. I was lucky enough to clink glasses with Ale Sharpton and he seemed to like the brews too. I also tried the signature drink of the evening, a jalapeño mojito. Loved the comingling of hot peppers mixed with cool mint.

Laughing Seed Cafe presented a spring green pesto bechamel lasagna accompanied by tasty kale with pine nuts. Here I met owner Joan Cliney-Eckert who owns a 3 acre farm where she sources much of her cafe's produce.

The charming Michel Bandouin of Bouchon made me a plate of French comfort food Asheville style. I swooned over the plate of Lapin a la Moutard with creamed turnips and a salad of roasted beets and goat cheese. Michel spoke of the local rabbits, the mustard he seasoned with and the goat cheese from a local creamery. It was at this moment that I began to latch on as a Foodtopian.

At The Corner Kitchen station I met owner Joe Scully and snacked on his hangar steak with molasses and mustard infused olive oil. Standing next to him was Jamie Agar of Hickory Nut Gap Farms. Scully sources from this local farm that raises grass fed beef and goat, pastured pigs, chicken and turkeys.

Lucia of Ultimate Ice Cream Company was close by to cleanse my palate. I had such a difficult time choosing from the listing of flavors but settled on one of the star ingredients of the evening with roasted ramp and goat cheese sourced from Spinning Spider Creamery. What a great flavor and interesting combination! Throughout the evening I came back to try Brown Sugar Bacon and maple, Blueberry Honey (yum, the local honey) and my favorite, Rielsling Sorbet.

My next taste dazzled all my senses. Zambra put forth one of my favorites of the evening, local trout cakes with micro greens, trout roe and a topping of crispy trout skin. Gorgeous, creative and so inspired. I also sampled a spread of spinning spider goat cheese with leeks on toast.

Jason and Peter of Posana handed me this oh so tender and delicious braised pork with celeriac puree. They explained how it was rubbed with local grainy mustard first. I ate each composed bite with the puree an wanted more.

I spent much of the evening around the cooking station of The Red Stag Grill. Chef Adam Hayes and crew had so many mouth watering local offerings. The pork pate paired with Lusty Monk mustards was a great start. I moved on to a braised bison short rib that had been encased in caul fat and then to goat sausage. Knowing the ingredients were fresh and locally sourced only added to the intense flavors.

Drunken pork livers were intense with the infusion of bourbon. I loved the rabbit rillette on a piece of crusty toast and topped with chef Hayes' pickled rhubarb. This was such an authentic local dish that I didn't think it could be topped. I inquired about other seasonal offerings since I had seen ramps in abundance. Fiddleheads? No. Morels? This illicited a big grin on chef Hayes' face as he handed me a slice of toast with a smear of chicken liver mousse blended with morels. Hands down my favorite taste of the evening--delicate, smooth and composed umami. Seconds later he plated for me a dish of strawberries, Looking Glass chevre, local honey (sourwood) and shave truffles. Yowza. The Red stag is my first stop this summer when I visit Asheville.

French Broad Chocolate Lounge had the most beautiful spread of chocolate truffles and cakes. When I visit I want to try them all, especially the lavender and honey. Dan and Jael Rattigan, look for me.

Bistro Restaurant on Biltmore Estate served up a pork belly cooked in bacon fat then cooked in duck fat. The first bite melted in my mouth. The second I dipped in their ancho cherry sauce. Wow, just wow. A friend saw my food daze and brought by a Mongolian braised bison taco from Lexington Avenue Brewery. So tender and delicious wrapped in a super flavorful corn tortilla. As I walked away from the table Jeff from Luella's Bar B Q handed me a cup of mac and cheese with bacon and offered me pulled pork slider. A friend nearby tried the sliders and proclaimed them delicious.

Last stop was the Blue Ridge Dining Room at the Grove Park Inn where chef Jack Melson was cooking up Anson Mill blue corn meal encrusted Sorrell Creek trout topped with manque choux. Perfect!

I couldn't get out the door without more good coming at me. The Foodtopians told me to make sure I collected a parting gift. I chose a bar of Black Mountain Chocolate but it was a difficult choice with the gorgeous jars of Imladris Farm jams. I did not want to leave such conviviality.

Foodtopia, I get you and I embrace you. I have made my plans to take a foodie trip to Asheville and I already know it is going to be a good time. Hope the Foodtopians come back for The Atlanta Food and Wine Festival so we can return the comity of a shared love of food, libations and gathering.

*Thank you to Spravka Imaging for the photos!

Destination Morocco via The Imperial Fez

2011-02-27T12:36:00.000-08:00

Now you say Morocco and that just makes me smile. I haven't seen Morocco in a long, long while..." I hummed this tune during rush hour traffic on my way to a favorite refuge of mine, The Imperial Fez. Upon entering Rafih and Rita Benjelloun's restaurant one is transported to Morocco, its sights, sounds, scents and traditions. Chef Benjelloun takes great pride in all aspects of the meal and reminds us that eating together is more than sustenance. He takes us to exotic Morocco without need of a passport.
The salon is saturated with exotic colors in the form of tapestries, carpets, pillows and cushions. Ornate lanterns hang from the ceiling and framed traditional Moroccan knives and swords flank the walls. Its tented ceiling and low tables that can easily be grouped together are designed for communal gathering. After a hospitable welcome I have left the stress of traffic and have arrived in exotic northern Africa.

The succession of courses begins with ceremonial hand washing. The tass is brought over to your table and warm water is gently poured over your hands and a soft towel is draped over your left shoulder to dry your hands and keep your fingers clean throughout the feast. First dish to be delivered is a cup of harrira lentil soup and Moroccan bread of whole wheat and honey. I drank it and dipped my bread into it. It was so delicious and savory for such a simple ingredient as a lentil, kind of umami.

As food begins to arrive family style at our table, I am enchanted by the emanation of aromas from the kitchen. Moroccan cuisine is characterized by its rich spices: cumin, chiles, paprika, coriander, saffron, ginger and cinnamon. Chef Benjelloun sees cumin and preserved lemon as signature Moroccan flavors. He explained to me just how easy preserved lemons can be created. Perhaps this could be his next how-to video demonstration.

Plates of various salads are set before us. Sweet and sour carrot salad looked benign but was bursting with fresh flavor. It accompanied a cool and crisp shredded cucumber salad with fresh oregano. Also unassuming was the cauliflower salad and the shredded pickled veggies which were heightened by the side of harissa, a paste of garlic, chiles, olive oil and salt. What really stood out for me was eggplant zaalouk. Chef Rafih calls it "poor man's caviar" for a reason. It is savory, tart and satisfying. You can learn make it at home with Chef Rhafi after viewing the first in a series of cooking demonstrations by Chef Rafih produced by Thomas James Photography and Video Productions.

Proof that food does not have to be savory OR sweet arrives in the form of a b'stella, crisp phyllo dough rolled thin and filled with cornish hen (tradition places squab inside), toasted almonds, eggs, dates and raisins minced together, cooked crisp and dusted with powdered sugar. The b'stella has that "made with love" quality that makes a father's food stand above others' to a person. For foods are not just inert objects. They are alive; alive not only with their own transmittable qualities of taste and smell but also alive with essence of their manufacturer. The b'stella was alive with the dynamism of chef Rafih. Watch him create it here.

Quickly our table was covered in dishes with tender, marinated chicken kebabs, a seafood platter and incredibly perfect couscous. Couscous with nuts, raisins and spices is central to Moroccan cuisine just as lamb is a principle meat. Both are expertly developed at Imperial Fez. The grilled lamb chops were delectably smokey and lightly seasoned. The lamb shank seemed roasted for hours into a so-tender, falling off the bone tastiness of garlic, cumin, paprika and cilantro along with a blend of mushrooms.

"And I've just had a taste of something fine..."

The evening began to come to an end with pastries similar to baklava made with honey and almonds. The tass was presented to us once again, this time along with drops of fragrant rosewater. Glasses of mint tea with fresh mint leaves were delicately poured for each guest. As we sat smiling about our shared experience I thought of how a meal goes beyond a nutrative need to survive. There is a significance to "breaking bread." It reminds us of our connection to other human beings.

Chef Rafih will take his feast on the road next month (March 15) when he is the featured chef at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas for a Moroccan dining experience. Each month on the 15th The Cosmopolitan will feature an acclaimed chef for a unique culinary experience. The Cosmopolitan is an incredible destination resort for foodies. The third floor is a mecca filled with inspired chefs surrounding a shimmering three storied chandelier. Chef Rafih will bring authenticity to this Moroccan feast for the lucky few who will be able to attend before it sells out.

"Something fine.."

Spring Fever

2011-02-10T08:28:00.001-08:00

This cold winter full of "wintry mix" has me yearning for spring unlike any year I remember. As much as I love comfort food, I have had enough. I want to plant my garden, dig in the earth and eat those foods that only springtime brings. I want to stroll the farmer's market and come home with fresh pea shoots and asparagus. I want to forage for wild ramps and fiddleheads or simply purchase the finds of others.

My hankering became visibly evident as I worked and dreamed at my desk and noticed that my doodling had a theme. Who doodles asparagus? My shopping bags and baskets are ready for the return of the outdoor markets filled with the spoils of Georgia! Why eat local, seasonal food?

local food is good for the environment: less of a carbon footprint

local food supports your local economy

local food is fresher, tastes better and is higher in nutritional value which declines over time. Local foods have ripened on the vine, not in transit.

buying local gives you a personal connection to your food <----- my favorite!

buying seasonal, local food follows what nature has intended, when it is fresh, abundant and least expensive.

local food has more variety. Local farmers play with their crops more and change it up. Ever seen a watermelon radish at your grocery?

buying local helps preserve green spaces. Your support helps keep those lovely farms and pastures from being developed.

Buying local helps someone living their dream. I live vicariously through many local entrepreneurs who are happily pickling their way through life.

I am really looking forward to the new Grant Park Farmer's Market on Sundays in addition to these:

Decatur Farmer's Market

Dunwoody Green Market

East Atlanta Village Farmer's Market

Morningside Farmer's Market

Peachtree Road Farmer's Market

Maybe not a farmer's market per se but it is a pretty cool collective of local talent and yumminess. The Irwin Street Market's community kitchens helped many of my favorite entrepreneurs live their dream.

Oh my darlin, oh my darlin...

2011-01-27T13:49:00.000-08:00

This box of sunshine is sitting on my counter full of nectarous possibilities. Shall I make something sweet, something savory or enjoy them after peeling away nature's wrapper? If apples are the fruit mascot of winter and watermelon the mascot of summer, then clementines are certainly my talisman of winter. Packed with about the same high amount of vitamin c as a navel orange but remarkably more flavor, clementines are a delicious snack choice. First one out of the box eaten as nature had intended. But what to do with the peel? Zest!

Wait, before I get to zesty stuff I need to share a creative clementine concoction from my favorite mixologist, Jeff Jackson, who is now GM at Rosebud. An homage to Jackson's love of plaid, the Tartan is a checky mixture that softly channels the sweetness and zing of clementines. As this tall beautiful glass is set before you, you will be enchanted by the citrusy aromas that are heightened by its ingredients. The Tartan begins with clementine infused vodka (he likes that they are sweet but retain acidity in the vodka). Jackson is adept at transforming a neutral tasting liquor like vodka into an intense infusion that lends itself to his creations. Add to clementine infused vodka a cranberry shrub. Shrub, you ask?

shrub: a shrub is a drink concentrate/liqueur/cordial

made with fresh fruit vinegars and sugars.

Many are based around berries. Shrubs recipes

date back to colonial times and are similar to grog.

Here the tartan gets tarty. Jackson's last component is prosecco, whose bubbles lighten the heaviness of the sugary shrub and he mentioned something about the mineral quality (have I mentioned his discerning palate?) while I was thinking "yum." If you were lucky enough to spend an evening or afternoon at the bar chatting, eating and drinking with Jeff, you know how good this tastes. And luckily for us he will be starting Drink with Jeff again soon. I have had some wonderful adventures with wine and cheese on the patio with this outgoing oenophile. Check it out. I guarantee you will learn something.

Chicken with Clementine shallot sauce

Here is what I did:

salt, peppered and allspiced (just a tad) a few chicken breasts

sauteed both sides in olive oil

set aside and cover with foil to keep breasts warm.

deglaze pan with 1/2 or so of white wine (dry, oakey, stale, leftover from last night)

add chicken broth (about 1/2 cup?), finely chopped shallots, 1/2 the juice from the clementine and zest

boil and reduce. Whisk in thyme, a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, remaining clementine juice and any needed spice.

cut chicken into slices, place and spoon sauce.

Easy and scrumptious! Now what to do with the leftover peel?

Here is what The Lilliputian Baking Company does with clementine peel. They candy it and sell it in cute lil jars at The Irwin Street Market.

You could either eat these sweet treats as is or dip in dark chocolate. Extra pieces would make an excellent garnish for the following recipe I found on Epicurious.com.

Chocolate Tart (photo from Epicurious.com)

Ingredients:
For crust
Vegetable oil for greasing pan
5 ounces wheatmeal biscuits such as Carr's whole-wheat crackers, finely ground (1 1/3 cups)
2 tablespoons sugar
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

For filling
2 large egg yolks
1 1/3 cups heavy cream
10 1/2 ounces fine-quality bittersweet chocolate (not unsweetened), finely chopped

Special equipment: a 9- or 10-inch fluted round tart pan (1 inch deep) with a removable bottom; an instant-read thermometer

Make crust:
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly oil tart pan.

Stir together biscuit crumbs, sugar, and butter in a bowl, then press crumb mixture evenly onto bottom of tart pan. Bake crust 10 minutes, then cool completely in pan on a rack.

Make filling:
Lightly beat yolks in a small bowl. Bring cream to a simmer in a 2-quart heavy saucepan and remove from heat. Add about one third of hot cream to yolks in a slow stream, whisking constantly, then pour yolk mixture into remaining cream, whisking.

Cook custard over moderately low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until it is thick enough to coat back of spoon and registers 170°F on thermometer, 1 to 2 minutes (do not let boil). Remove from heat and add chopped chocolate, whisking until smooth.

Pour filling evenly over crust and chill tart, uncovered, until firm, at least 2 hours. Remove side of pan and serve tart chilled or at cool room temperature.

Sprig

2011-01-24T09:13:00.000-08:00

"There is not a sprig of grass that shoots uninteresting to me."
— Thomas Jefferson

Unpretentious but upscale is what comes to mind when I think of Sprig and to me that is the best of both worlds when dining. This new local restaurant comes to us via owner Daniel Morrison and executive chef Robert Elliott both alums of the James Beard winning restaurant Watershed. Juxtaposition is a delightful theme that carries on throughout your experience at Sprig. The decor is chic yet rustic; very leather and lace but in this case Stevie would be singing barnwood and polished steel. The atmosphere is cool and hip but at the same time friendly and warm. It is sophisticated but takes the time to thank farmers on a chalkboard above the bar: Moore Farms & Friends, The Turnip Truck, Crystal Organics, Springer Mountain, Dillwood farms, Eden Farms, White Oak Pastures, and Sweetgrass Dairy to name a few.

I have tried the restaurant many times. I have been there during the week, on a crowded weekend night, for lunch, with one friend, with 10 friends and with a foursome. I have had tables in the front, back and even the bar. I haven't had a dish I didn't like and I had excellent, welcoming service each time. On each visit my table was visited either by Mr. Morrison or Chef Elliott, a treat.

The chef-driven menu is built upon scratch regional cuisine that is staunchly local, seasonal and simple. appetizer favorites of mine include the steamed mussels with Sweetwater Sch'wheat beer, tomato, basil, orange & shallot sopping sauce, the fried pickles with beer cheese sauce, the local cheese plate and the crusty cornbread shmeared avocado butter. Standout entrees are the Venison with rosemary-lemon risotto and the pan seared chicken breast with ham bread pudding. Chicken, you ask? This chicken is perfection. It had me wondering if Thomas Keller was in the kitchen. It arrived at the table piping hot, tender, juicy, salt and peppered with crispy skin and pan juices. It was gorgeous, delicious and I knew the chicken was from Springer Mountain and the tasso from a local Berkshire hog. Spreading the local love feels good and tastes even better!

Come for the food and stick around for the drinks. Morrison's attention to the drink menu stands out. There are creative, seasonal cocktails, many craft beers and a delightful wine list that does not exist at any of the restaurants nearby.

No detail was spared in the creation of Sprig. I can't wait to see the Spring menu when local farms give us there best goods. Think fiddleheads will make it to the menu?

Jelloware

2011-01-24T08:31:00.000-08:00

These Jelloware cups are amazing on so many levels. They are edible, compostable, vegan, colorful, tasty and neat-o. Throwing them in the grass after a party would only nurture growing plants because they are made from agar agar (a gelatin derived from algae). For me the greatest thing about these new jello cups is that they will satisfy the urge I always get when drinking from thin stemware- to bite it. The more delicate the glass, the more I want to take my teeth to it. Weird, I know but now I have an easy solution in Jelloware. The Way We See The World, a New York-based design consultancy developed this idea with incredible flavors like lemon-basil, ginger-mint, and rosemary-beet. Act now to kick start this idea by going to The Way We See The World. Click on the kick start link to add to the dreamers' goal of $10,000.

Meyer lemons

2011-01-15T08:45:00.000-08:00

Friends of mine just received their first shipment of Meyer lemons from lemonladies.com and they are thrilled!. Meyer lemons are a cross between a lemon and a Mandarin orange. They have an edible peel and a much sweeter, less acidic flavor. Wish I could have tasted this menu item from Hugh Acheson's New years dinner at Five and Ten:

seared scallops with meyer lemon, radish, mache, fennel and fennel pollen
Vouvray, Clos le Vigneau, Loire, France, 2008

yum and yum!

I am going to order from the Lemon Ladies and as soon as they arrive I am making these sunny cupcakes.

This recipe comes from Mattbites.com
Meyer Lemon and Ricotta Cupcakes with White Chocolate Buttercream Frosting makes 12

Ingredients:
2 cups all purpose flour
1 ½ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
1 ½ cups sugar
2 egg whites lightly beaten
½ cup part-skim ricotta
1/3 cup butter, melted
1 cup buttermilk
1 teaspoon lemon extract
1 Meyer lemon, zested and juiced

Frosting:
3 cup powdered sugar, sifted
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
2 Tablespoons heavy cream
4 ounces Scharffen Berger white chocolate, melted
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Garnish:
1 ounce Scharffen Berger white chocolate, shaved

1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
2. In a mixing bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside.
3. In a stand mixer or with a hand mixer beat together the sugar and egg until light and
fluffy, about 3 minutes.
4. With the motor or speed on medium-low add the ricotta, melted butter and buttermilk
to the sugar mixture.
5. Begin adding the flour mixture to the sugar mixture in thirds, scraping the bowl down
after each addition until fully incorporated.
6. Gently fold in the lemon extract, zest and juice. Stir.
7. Line each cup with paper liners and fill each about 2/3 of the way with batter.
8. Place cupcakes in the oven and bake for about 20-25 minutes or until light golden
brown and a toothpick comes out clean when inserted into the center of the cupcake.
9. For the frosting, place the sugar and butter in the bowl of a stand mixer and begin
beating on low speed until just combined. About 2 minutes.
10. Add the cream and turn the speed to medium-high and continue beating the mixture,
until smooth.
11. Reduce the speed to medium and slowly drizzle in the melted chocolate.
12. Fold in the vanilla until fully incorporated.
13. Once the cupcakes have cooled, place the frosting into a piping bag with a star tip and
pipe a small amount of frosting onto each cupcake.
14. Top each cupcake with a sprinkle of white chocolate shavings and serve

Exploring. Discovering.

2011-01-14T09:18:00.000-08:00

I haven't written much on here in a while (my moleskin is full, however). I have been off experiencing and exploring. I have met wonderful people, attended incredible fetes and tasted unforgettable meals. I have actually been living a life imagined and it feels good. Today after being snowed in for almost a week during snowpocolypse 2011 in Atlanta, all I care to do is seek our a good taco and a gaggle of friends. Perhaps I will take a photo.

Wish I was in Charleston today...

2010-11-08T09:54:00.000-08:00

The South's much anticipated locally-sourced, refined dining spot by James Beard award winner, Sean Brock opens for dinner service today. If I could have swinged it, I would be at a table at Husk tonight enjoying fresh from the farm southern fare and sampling one of the 50 varieties of bourbon Chef Brock will be offering. I love everything that Chef Brock stands for: fresh local ingredients, inspirations from the authentic south, using heirloom ingredients (including pork), seed saving, ingredient driven cuisine, in-house pickling and charcuterie. McCrady's, Brock's first Charleston institution, is one of my favorite restaurants and I am sure once I visit, I will be adding Husk to my list.

To top it off, Sean is a super nice guy, easy-going and fun to chat with. I am especially fond of his fiddlehead tattoo on his ever growing sleeve of goodness.

lovely earthenware

2010-10-13T05:09:00.001-07:00

I fell in love with this personalizable platter I found on Etsy from Inherwordsceramics. I just bought one for a wedding present and have bookmarked the page for future gifts. I love the lowercase, fun font and being able to choose my own colors. Service was sweet, fast and friendly.

why blog

2010-09-13T10:17:00.000-07:00

I often hear/read a chef discussing why he/she loathes the food bloggers. Sometimes I nod along until I realize that I guess I fall into that category. I'm not really a food blogger in the true sense of the term. I never set out to write a blog to be noticed, but rather as an outlet after a tragedy turned my life upside down. Focusing on things that inspire me and make me happy started to make me feel joy again. And while I will never be the same shining spirit I once was, I have lived vicariously through artists and chefs who's craft I believe in while creating this blog. If I can be a part of their success, if only through wishing and saying nice things on my little blog then I have accomplished a lot.

When I stumbled upon this lovely calligraphy piece on Etsy I felt reassured that this is a good outlet and not silliness. It makes no sense. It makes no money but it feels right to love one another, eat each other's cooking and say it was good. I will never bash your restaurant for the rude things you do and I will never waste time on bad meals but I may write about you occasionally and wish for greater recognition than here. I will comment on the real bloggers blogs and vote for you in polls. Not all bloggers are looking for fame and fortune. Some of us are not building an empire, but treating your food as an art form that is fleeting and must be captured before consumed.

Empire State South Grand Opening

2010-08-23T12:27:00.000-07:00

I have been excited for quite some time about the proposed restaurant Empire State South restaurant with chef/partner Hugh Acheson at the helm. I love his style and sensibility when it comes to food and gathering. His respect for the seasons in his approach to local produce prepared simply and pure creates dishes without pretense. It is admirable as well as delicious. I love the juxtaposition, or rather that it does not seem to be a juxtaposition when you are eating his refined comfort food.

When I found out that the Chef de Cuisine was to be Nick Melvin of Parish and formerly The Inn at Serenbe, I was uber excited. Nick is passionate about his craft, about veggies fresh from the garden, trout fresh from local waters, pickling, local, seasonal, whole animal...I could go on and on. He is profoundly passionate about Empire State South and I can't wait to taste what comes from this motivation.

I am ready for the soft opening this weekend and the grand opening next week. I have talked with Nick about the menu (which he elucidates in great detail) and now I can see versions on the website. I took a tour and oh my is it lovely. The dark wood, the milk paint, the dishes, the antique lighting, the kitchen, the garden, the a la Marzocco GB-5 for espresso, the small batch bourbons, the bocce court. It is all so composed and speaks of a vision.

There are already events like the Farm, Fork and Cork dinner benefiting the Southeastern Horticultural Society whose mission it is to build and maintain learning gardens throughout the Southeast. Empire State South is already reaching out, strengthening the southern community and living up to its moniker.

But wait, there's more...

(isn't she lovely?)

I wasn't aware of the boxed lunch menu! You can pick them up or have them delivered. A twelve dollar adorable and yummy lunch in a tiffin. What a fun idea and what a yummy bunch of choices. The tiffins make me smile because I have a pie carrier that I take with me everywhere that looks very similar. My mom had one. My grandmother had one. My friends love to make fun of it at our annual cookie swap UNTIL they see how neatly my cookies are stored and carried away.

You can get a tiffin too. Look at this one from Ten Thousand Villages. Adorable.

2010-08-23T09:44:00.000-07:00

A Malaysian friend of mine sent me a handful of these creamy corn candies. I don't have much of a sweet tooth unless it involves chocolate, but I do like savory desserts. I decided to try one. Inside the pouch was a disc shaped candy in the dullest of food colors, off brown. Not caramel colored, but off brown. Dull. What's that phrase we always heard through school "don't judge a book by it's cover?" Applies here. This yummy, velvety candy tastes like homemade fresh sweet corn made into creamed corn. I am not sure what sort of Willy Wonka magic was needed to make it but i am certain unicorns and rainbows were involved somewhere. These are magical like a dessert and a snack in one, a prelude to dinner if you will.

I need to share them with this blogger . Have you read Who eats this stuff? It is a really charming blog about an Atlantan who tries a new food each day. My kind of challenge.

Back to the Willy Wonka food. Remember this part of the movie when the gum-chewing Violet Beauregard snags a piece of the forbidden three course dinner gum? These candies reminded me of the blueberry girl. Wonder if they have mashed potato gum in Malaysia?

watermelon obsession

2010-08-18T16:11:00.001-07:00

I found this seasoning and thought it would be good to enhance chicken for tacos and salads. It made me laugh twice. First, when I saw the words around it:"not a candy." Second, when it said it was a fruit and vegetable seasoning. Fruit? The ingredients are a mixture of ground chili peppers, salt, and dehydrated lime juice. So while I was preparing dinner using my own mixture, I sliced up a watermelon and tossed some Tajin on it. Yes, this is indeed a fruit seasoning! So, so good. I just ate a plate of watermelon.

Now I am thinking popcorn, jicama, cucumbers. Ooh tomatoes? yes.

I leaf you

2010-08-17T08:58:00.000-07:00

I swoon over this leaf puzzle by justhatched on Etsy. My sweet first baby had falling leaves painted on the walls of his nursery. This would make a lovely baby present.

Attack of the Killer Tomatoes Part Deux

2010-08-10T08:10:00.000-07:00

On Sunday, August 8 I attended the 2nd annual Attack of the Killer Tomato Festival at JCT Kitchen. The atmosphere was filled with positive energy, even in the ticket line. The day was gorgeous. It was hot but what is more cooling and refreshing than a tomato? After chatting with the lovely volunteers from Georgia Organics, I started making my rounds. First stop, Miller Union and tomatoes from Crystal Organics. Steven Satterfield chatted a bit and handed me an heirloom tomato aspic. Aspic? Gross, was my first impression. How wrong was I? This was in my top two dishes I had all afternoon. The aspic had the crisp, clean flavor of tomato broth and each bite of the heirloom tomatoes (yeah green zebras) brought forth a tasty surprise. To compliment it, I had one of Cara Laudino's (also of Miller Union) Electric Boogaloos made with Prairie Organic vodka. I loved the cardamon and muddled yellow tomatoes, simple and perfect.

Next up, Hot and Hot Fish Club's Hot and Hot Tomato Salad with fresh corn, field peas, fried okra, applewood smoked bacon and chive aoli. While he gathered my dish, chef Chris Hastings and I talked about his last Farm to Table and Back dinner at JCT. One bit and I knew this would be my favorite dish. The tomatoes from Yoder farms were simply sublime. The fried pickled okra lingers on my palate.

Around the corner I ran into Hector Santiago of Pura Vida and Super Pan with his steamed coconut blts. Loved every bite! I washed it down with Paul Calvert's La Mancha made with tomatoes from Serenbe Farms. Yum-my! He pureeed roasted heirloom tomatoes with agave syrup and mixed with a shot of tequila. mezcal and basil. Kevin Maxey of Craft/Craftbar handed me a pulled pork lettuce wrap with smoked tomato molasses and heirloom tomato relish with tomatoes from Dillwood farms. Delightful.

Kevin Bragg from Prohibition mixed me up a drink with tomato water and Blue Coat gin. We chatted a bit about the pretty blue bottles and our love for Hendrick's gin until our conversation shifted to how fantastic his concoction was. Seriously, It was dangerous. I could drink it all day. I had a quick stop at Kevin Rathbun's table for a Noring farms shrimp tomato soup dumpling with tomato ponzu and then had a gulp of Souper Jenny's smoked 3 tomato gazpacho. It started to settle in that I would be consuming alot of tomatoes today.

Taqueria Del Sol presented an organic tomato (Serenbe Farms) cruda in habanaro viniagrette on a tostada topped with southwestern crema and a generous dollop of caviar. Savory, light and decadent rolled into one. I strolled over to Ron Eyester who was mixing up Woodland gardens cherry tomatoes with Rosebud mozzarella and anchovies. He gave me a generous cupful and I ate every bite. Standing next to me was the sweet Todd ginsberg from Bocado who had a salad of Adam Herrin's farm heirloom tomatoes, avocado, green goddess dressing, cucumbers and delicious radishes. I really loved this dish for the perfect tomatoes, creamy avocado and crisp radish. It was very put together and Todd was charming to talk with while I sampled.

At Farm 255 I tried a confit blt with tomatoes from FarmsFull Moon . The pork belly was incredible and we had a great chat about my love for farmburger while I noshed with a group. From this I was treated to a grilled cheese keaster from Aria with roof top dried tomatoes from Dillwood farms, applewood smoked bacon and chipotle sauce. I could eat this for every meal. It was savory, hot, melty goodness with so much flavor as the ingredients combined into one. This turned out to be the winning dish for Gerry Klaskala.

On the short walk downstairs I said hi to Eli Kirshstein (who may or may not take over the old Repast space), chatted a bit with Savory Exposure and was greeted with *sigh* air conditioning as I walked in the door. I didn't make it far before getting a great hug and a smile from Hugh Acheson. Have I mentioned how excited I am for the opening of his new restaurant Empire State South? He showed me to his spot with Nick Melvin and tried their Woodland gardens tomatoes with pickled shrimp, field peas and boiled dressing. So very simple and southern and good.

I zigged over to the JCT table and was greeted by Nick Horn's smile AND he and Ford Fry's resplendent Killer Tomato Jelly Donut with bacon mayonaisse. Oh. My. It wasn't something you could take bites of but rather pop in your mouth and wait for the flavor explosion. I crave it now. Whippoorwill Hollow Farm provided the yellow tomatoes for Leon's Full Service's The Golden Ticket. Whew! That was good but strong (and just seeing the name of Leon's makes me crave bacon in a glass). Miles Macwuerrie was a treat to watch at the bar.

There was quite a crowd near Livingston's table but luckily I was able to share with a stranger and enjoy Gary Mennie's Riverview Farms tomato shortcake. Everything was so lovely at every table that I wish i had taken photos but most of the time I was balancing a plate and a glass until I was able to put it in the compost bin. The what? That's right, everything was served in and on compostable dishes/cups. Same goes for the cutlery. Loved it.

Carvel Grant Gould created a warm goat cheese cheesecake with applewood smoked bacon and tomato fig jam from Moore Farm and friends' tomatoes. It was luscious and perfect. I am a big fan of savory desserts and this hit the spot. I headed over to Restaurant Eugene's Tom Cola and tried a swig. It was sweet and good with Prairie vodka, tomatoes from Love is Love farm, lime, allspice, and of course, Coca-Cola. I was delighted to see John Currence of City Grocery in Oxford MS
at a nearby table. His roasted Mortgage-Lifter Tomato Biscuits with bacon rillettes, basil aoli and arugula were out of this world. Read about him in this month's Food and Wine. I want to make this recipe.

I then popped over to Andy Minchow's Holeman & Finch table for a Tom Cat tonic. I was mesmerized watching the mixologists work with tomatoes from WA Hennessey Farm and even more enchanted with the drink. Lovely. After I picked up my drink I chatted with Mike Lata of FIG. We talked about his upcoming Farm To Table and Back dinner at JCT in December. Looks like I will see him twice in one week for that and a jaunt to his Charleston restaurant, one of my all-time favotires. His dish was an heirloom tomato (Crystal Organic) tarte tatin with fromage blanc. The dish was so simple yet so refined. Joe Truex's Watershed table was next with a delicious tomato (Dillwood Farms) pie a la king. "One bite" he said. I listened. It was divine. My mouth was full as I said hello to JCT chef/owner Ford Fry who was having as good a time as the rest of us. I was a bit distracted by Andrew Knowlton of Bon Appetit sitting behind me on a bench. His photos don't do him justice.

La Pietra Cucina prepared a wonderful Panzanella with thai basil and compressed red cabbage with tomatoes from Stoke's Farms. Great flavors. Over by the Pacci table, I talked a moment with Running with Tweezers. She was a big fan of Keira Moritz' heirloom tomato sorbets and ice creams. They were very cute and just the right tasting size in their lil bitty cones.

Before heading back outside, I stopped at Lara Creasy's bar for he Love Apple, Sugar Baby granita. I fell in love and I told her so. Not only was it perfect for such a hot afternoon, but it was so full of tomato flavor. It paired nicely with my heirloom tomato corn dog with brandywine ketchup from chef Linton Hopkins. This delicacy is what i had in my mouth when I ran into Melissa Libby and chatted a bit about how fabulous the event was and how much fun the band was. The Spazmatics are adorable, almost as much as Melissa.

Scott Serpas offered me a shot of garden tomato with pickled shrimp and celery crema. It was yummy, especially the celery crema. Great flavor combo. I was quickly introduced to Brian Stanger of Abattoir and handed his very creative Mason Dixon Sangrita made with tomato juice, chile sauce, and pomegranate juice and tequila. Kevin Gillespie of Woodfire Grill had adorable tomato ice cream sandwiches with tomatoes from Moore Farms and Friends. It was neat to see he and Eli Kirschtein standing next to one another with a gaggle of lady admirers.

I ended my spree of tomato eating with one of the best things there. Anne Quatrano had Hawaiian shaved ice with heirloom tomato herb waters with tomatoes from Summerland Farm. I chose tomato melon for mine and then was told I could add tomato moonshine. "Do it" I said. So, so very good with smoked salt on top. I ate/drank every bit while watching the Spazmatics and took a cookie to go.

Through this adventure with the love apple, I learned that I really like tomatoes prepared in many ways. I only didn't like a few of the dishes. I did miss one, however. 5 Seasons had olive oil fried heirloom tomato ice cream with foccacia crust and lavender infused tomato. Sad to have missed out. Sounds incredible.

The event was so well put together. From the Chefs paired with farms to the band, mixologists and environmental materials used. To top it off, the money raised goes to Georgia Organics. Even Jennifer Popovich Graphic Design, who designed the chef display cards and programs, donated her time and services. Bravo all!

Next year I hope to attend and see much more attention to the farms.

what was that ingredient?

2010-07-22T08:43:00.001-07:00

First think I thought of when I awoke this morning was "what the hell is long pepper?" Here is why:

Last night's Top Chef elimination challenge was exciting for the first time this season with an expectation to produce a great dish best served cold using uncommon ingredients. It even had a twist. During prep, the chefs were told to move to the station to their left and assume it's protein already being marinated, chopped and seared for the previous contestant. Finally, an interesting episode for this boring season. I was familiar with all but the duck testicles but frankly, I don't want to be familiar with them either. I loved watching the chef's faces as Padma ate them, however.

The losing dish was Tamesha's scallops which James Beard Award winner Michelle Bernstein described as "a tongue on top of your tongue." Not sure what that means, but wouldn't want to experience it. Apparently the scallops were over seasoned with long pepper. Each taster mentioned long pepper casually but unlike the duck testicles, no one said "long peppers are..." I googled and learned. While I googled, Foodie Buddha was crafting a delightful post with helpful descriptions of ingredients and preparations that many non-chefs may not know. Kismet I tell you.

Long pepper

Big Tree Farms who learned about these long forgotten peppers from locals describes them like this "The flavor of Balinese Long Pepper is deep and complex; simultaneously releasing an earthy pungency, a sweet hint of cardamom and nutmeg and the spicy heat of chili. The long peppers look like tiny cattails and once ground, roasted or simply snapped in two, they release an incredible floral bouquet." They do not respond to traditional farming techniques but instead choose to sprout where they will under the canopy of trees and along trails. Plucked from culinary obscurity, you can now buy them in these lovely boxes.

Omnivore's 100

2010-07-20T14:55:00.000-07:00

I thought I would get interactive with this fun blogger meme from Andrew at Very Good Taste. I originally saw it while reading the lovely From whence the sweet bird sang. Here's what I am to do:

1) Copy this list into your blog or journal, including these instructions.
2) Bold all the items you’ve eaten.
3) Cross out any items that you would never consider eating.

The VGT Omnivore’s Hundred:

1. Venison
*a favorite of mine
2. Nettle tea
*easy enough to try stay tuned
3. Huevos rancheros
*not really a fan. rather have dippy eggs and bacon.
4. Steak tartare
5. Crocodile (well, technically alligator but the same?)
6. Black pudding
7. Cheese fondue
*I even know someone who lives on the stuff
8. Carp
9. Borscht
*best I ever had was a deconstructed version by Kevin Gillespie at Woodfire Grill
10. Baba ghanoush
love it but it makes me laugh when I order it. Schwarma is even more laughter inducing.
11. Calamari
*yum. I prefer the whole babies as opposed to the rings
12. Pho
*had duck Pho last week. gamey but good.
13. PB&J sandwich
*prefer blackberry jam
14. Aloo gobi
15. Hot dog from a street cart
*yes and I think Atlanta needs more streetfood
16. Epoisses
17. Black truffle
*mmmm
18. Fruit wine made from something other than grapes
*sadly
19. Steamed pork buns
*looked so benign at first glance. heavenly!
20. Pistachio ice cream
*I love
21. Heirloom tomatoes
*best thing on this list. nothing like a fresh, local, heirloom tomato
22. Fresh wild berries
*picked some from the vine this week
23. Foie gras
*feel guilty when people protest because it tastes so very good
24. Rice and beans
*best are always made with love from someone raised in Louisiana
25. Brawn, or head cheese
26. Raw Scotch Bonnet pepper
*a professor grew them. Pretended they were not burning a hole in my tongue.
27. Dulce de leche
*meh
28. Oysters
*love, love, love. raw on the half shell please
29. Baklava
*meh.
30. Bagna cauda
31. Wasabi peas
*love them until they burn my nostrils
32. Clam chowder in a sourdough bowl (had both but never this combo)
33. Salted lassi
34. Sauerkraut
*huge fan all ways except sweetened
35. Root beer float
*prefer just the rootbeer. Best is from a place where they rollerskate it to your car on a hot summer evening.
36. Cognac with a fat cigar had both but never together. have had martini and cigar)
37. Clotted cream tea
38. Vodka jelly/Jell-O
*college.
39. Gumbo
*grew my babies on it
40. Oxtail
41. Curried goat
*really love. Like it in Puerto Rico. Loved it in Jamaica. Dekalb Farmer's Market makes a mean curried goat
42. Whole insects
*probably have had but will do over for research sake
43. Phaal
44. Goat’s milk
*raised on it
45. Malt whisky from a bottle worth £60/$120 or more
*yes but I cannot tell the difference
46. Fugu
47. Chicken tikka masala
*mmm
48. Eel
*love it
49. Krispy Kreme original glazed doughnut
*not really a doughnut fan but love whe the "hot doughnuts" sign is on
50. Sea urchin
*so. very. disgusting.
51. Prickly pear
52. Umeboshi
53. Abalone
*meh
54. Paneer
55. McDonald’s Big Mac Meal
*cannot believe I have never had one. very proud.
56. Spaetzle
*meh
57. Dirty gin martini
*Hendricks please. two olives. up.
58. Beer above 8% ABV
* :)
59. Poutine
60. Carob chips
*why? taste like wax.
61. S’mores
*3 times last week even
62. Sweetbreads
63. Kaolin
64. Currywurst
65. Durian
66. Frogs’ legs
*even caught my own before beer-battering them
67. Beignets, churros, elephant ears or funnel cake
*confused. These are not the same thing but I have had them all.
68. Haggis
69. Fried plantainsin
*twice this week
70. Chitterlings, or andouillette
*food of the gods.
71. Gazpacho
*prefer warm soup. just saying.
72. Caviar and blini
*love.
73. Louche absinthe
74. Gjetost, or brunost
75. Roadkill
76. Baijiu
77. Hostess Fruit Pie
*reminds me of packed lunches and childhood.
78. Snail
*good until you get a piece of sand. always do.
79. Lapsang souchong
*always in my pantry
80. Bellini
81. Tom yum
*love
82. Eggs Benedict
*dislike
83. Pocky
*boring.
84. Tasting menu at a three-Michelin-star restaurant.
85. Kobe beef
*overrated
86. Hare
*better than kobe beef
87. Goulash
*could eat every day
88. Flowers
*love them in salads
89. Horse
90. Criollo chocolate
*pretty sure I have especially since I order from The Meadow so often
91. Spam
*I like it with mustard.
92. Soft shell crab
*incredibly delicious!
93. Rose harissa
94. Catfish
*like it with hotsauce
95. Mole poblano
*a favorite
96. Bagel and lox
*tasty goodness with capers
97. Lobster Thermidor
98. Polenta
*really a vehicle
99. Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee
*first tried in Jamaica and brought home. very good.
100. Snake

Wow! I guess I am an adventurous foodie afterall. Now I am on a mission to try most of the rest.

no fiddlehead?

2010-07-03T12:49:00.000-07:00

Love these new bowls, platters and trivets from Crate and Barrel's Sprout collection. Fellow foragers will love them too. Wish they had one with fiddleheads. Click on the link to see the image of the radish and cress.

♥ and cohones!

2010-07-02T14:30:00.000-07:00

Pura Vida always has ample free parking, a rarity in Atlanta when it comes to my favorite restaurants. On a balmy Friday evening as the sun was setting (think the start of a Top chef episode), we parked across the street and hit the crosswalk that leads right to the door. We were greeted with a smile and the percussion of Latin music. We danced our way to our table after returning a wave and a smile to chef/owner Hector Santiago. It is such an electric atmosphere. I have had a different server every visit and each has been friendly, helpful, knowledgeable, efficient and enthusiastic. I don't say this much.

We sat under the brown glass pendant lamps and noted the "rain" falling only behind one window. It must have been from chef Hector's pepper garden growing on the rooftop. I thought of those tasty peppers as I recalled Bon Appetit's 10 best roof to table restaurants list on which Pura Vida garnered a spot. I need to get another bottle of his hot sauce when I leave too.

We usually order a bottle of wine but this time we opted on a few signature drinks. The mojitos are outstanding! Ours had coconut rum, lots of muddled mint and a fresh quarter stalk of sugar cane. We also tried the mango lemonade. Rummy and mangoey as described. The bloody Maria, made with tequila instead of vodka was spicy and flavorful, a perfect match for our tapas.
On first inspection, I noticed many new items on the menu. Our server, Laura, noted that a new menu came out this week and it was "really exciting." We started with a couple of appetizers from the bar menu--a plate of beautiful serrano ham and a melon dish topped with fried jamon. Simple, sweet and salty.

Our tapas began arriving in a steady stream. Steaming coconut buns, a dish I always order, were mouth watering. I couldn't wait to taste the crispy pilon pork belly on the soft coconut pillows layered with cilantro, cabbage and a tamarind sauce. Heavenly. I love this dish especially because the tiny pickled Chile peppers come on the plate.

My mouth was happily on fire with the piquant peppers when my green papaya salad with king crab was laid before me. Great timing, as the cool, tart, crisp papaya with sweet fresh crab cooled my palate. Very tasty and refreshing. I tried on of the buenelos, puff filled with savory cheese as my table mates enjoyed empanadas with Hector's Diablo sauce and huge testones (Mayan fried plantains with chipotle honey and cilantro puree).

Our server came by to see how we were liking our dishes and we asked a few questions. She was so knowledgeable about the ingredients in each dish and drink. Even if she had not been so focused on our experience, the menu had a glossary of items that may be unfamiliar to the diner. I learned a few things on this particular evening.

The hangar steak pinchos with cilantro chimchurri sauce were a flavorsome bunch of juicy, tender meat on skewers rubbed with adobo caribe. They arrived hot. In fact, every dish came to our table hot and fresh. I noticed and appreciated as much just as I appreciated Hector's inventive and clever food prepared from local ingredients.

My apio dish was placed before me and with just a look I could tell it was going to be interesting--celery in many forms. This was my favorite of the night because by description and ingredients it was so unassuming. Crunchy celery and celery root puree gnocchi with a light sauce, layers of both flavors and textures showcases chef Hector's creativity.

Speaking of inventiveness, this incredible plate of Ahi tuna was a sight to behold. Cubes of bright tuna surrounded by lemon caviar, cilantro, a spicy aoli, coffee "dirt." I loved this playful dish for so many reasons.

A long, thin roja pizza was piping hot with roasted garlic tomato sauce and crumbles of Spanish chorizo. This would be a great option for kids but they would have to fight the adults at our table for a bite. We then shared the wahoo and chorizo skewers with banana mustard. Hot and tasty goodness with a rich, tangy sauce that seamed peculiar at first but paired perfectly. Last up, Lobster on polenta that was warm sweet and saucy.

Despite our many plates, we anticipated the dessert menu. I think we tried them all. House made ice creams tonight included guava ice cream that was buttery and peach-like in flavor, leche cream that was ice-milk yumminess and a nutty one that I never did ask about. It was the best one. The chocolate flan brulee was gone very quick as our spoons dove into it's warm, spicy chocolate middle and we ended with the chocolate tart. A perfect dark chocolate ending to a perfect dinner.

Chef hector came to our table for a visit. We chatted about the flavors, ingredients and his motto "heart and balls." His from the hip cooking with no rules, just experimental tastes makes for the best tapas in Atlanta. He is so very charming and so passionate about his craft. He told us how the Top Chef tour has been and about an upcoming demo at the Ohio State fair. He is also rather stoked about gastrotrek to Peru. He is ecstatic about the Mistura Gastronomic Festival which he described as "a foodie paradise where you can eat from one end to the other all day long" and still cannot taste everything. As the sun set we headed home discussing along the way our favorite hidden gems in each dish. Pura Vida never dissapoints.

Watermelon Lime Aqua Fresca

2010-07-01T12:53:00.000-07:00

As the evening's sizzling summer heat set in, I headed to the local farm stand for a fresh watermelon. I have been making this sweet pleasure a few times a week. It is a crowd pleaser and gives on-the-spot cooling relief. It is pretty, delicious and healthful. Kids love it and adults can easily turn it into an adult beverage with the addition of a bit of tequila, rum or vodka.

Ingredients
1/2 a large, seedless watermelon cut into chunks
( I don't measure. I just filled up a really large bowl
1/2 cup fresh lime juice (5-6 limes. I use Persian limes.
squirt of honey (I use local Tupelo from Weeks Farm)
grated fresh ginger or a squeeze of Gourmet Garden squeeze ginger
ice cubes
lime wedges or fresh mint for garnish

Blend the watermelon chunks in batches.
You can strain if you like but watermelon isn't too pulpy.
Stir in lime juice, ginger and honey.
Fill glasses with ice and pour over.
Garnish with a lime wedge or sprig of mint and enjoy.

summer swag

2010-06-14T13:01:00.000-07:00

Here's a link to 50% off deals from Concentrics Restaurants. Deals go through September 7th, 2010. I received this the day after I ate at Two Urban Licks and Parish during the same weekend. Figures.

I've got nothing but love for Parish and Nick Melvin. Not only is he an amazing chef who exudes passion for his craft and respects his ingredients, but the restaurant is housed in an 1890 building that oozes character and charm. My friend and I tried two salads. I had the Crab and Avocado with lump crab, ginger pickled beet root, arugula, ricotta salata and a spiced vanilla vinaigrette. Beautiful, no? Take that beauty and add the taste of the ocean. This salad tasted like sweet sunshine. Flavors both opposing and complimentary resulting in a taste bud trip to the sea.
My friend ordered the Milk and honey salad with baby spinach, house made almond nougat, dried apricots and cherries, applewood smoked bacon and a chile & wildflower honey vinaigrette. It is not a very good photo (sometimes I feel like a big dork taking photos of my food)but it was incredibly delicious. She liked the play of spinach and bacon, while I loved the chile and apricot combination. I loved it paired with my Mettler Syrah.

We chatted a while with one of the servers who had extensive knowledge of wine. he is always delightful to talk with about pairings. I rarely eat bread in restaurants but those thick, warm, freshly baked slices in a paper bag were alluring. I heavily slathered the soft butter with sprinkled sea salt and enjoyed.

Look at my cast-iron roasted Enchanted Mountain trout Delicious. Nick knows his ingredients and respects them. I loved that I knew where this fish came from and that fresh, local veggies accompanied it. I tasted all the bits by themselves first and then purposed my bites with a swoosh of creamy potatoes, chunks of root veggies, a piece of tender trout and a dip in the acidic balsamic. My friend ordered the Pork and dumplings with Gum Creek farms pork shoulder braised in buttermilk, Parmesan dumplings and a spring succotash. I was uber excited to try it because I had tasted a smoked Gum Creek Farms hog at Cochon 555 at Todd Mussman's tasting. The pulled pork looked and smelled delicious so I was not prepared for my taste. The pork was so tender and the sauce was light but rich. It doesn't make sense, but it was the best of both worlds, extremely flavorful but brothy and light and not overwhelming of the pork.
Another glass of wine, a trip through the market and my friend and I were off into the evening. I don't usually mention valet service along with restaurant service, but the valets at parish are like an extension of the staff. On our way in the valet introduced himself and told us that he knew we would have a great meal. on our way out he asked us what we had. We talked about the dishes and he talked about his favorites. Valets are usually in such a rush. This was charming.

Vinyl Lager

2010-05-23T20:42:00.000-07:00

A hot spring day and a trip to the beer fridge. What's that I see? A lovely Vinyl Lager from Magic Hat Brewery's spring seasonal novelties. Someone hands me a church key. I pop off the top (save it for art projects though) and take a big, cold gulp. Queue this cause it feels like summer!
I am no beer expert, but I know what I like and I like to pull out the flavors just like drinking wine. I hear it pours rich, dark amber but I drank straight from the cold, dewy bottle. The bottle reads lager but it's not lager like to me. It is malty and tastes of caramel but not in on overly sweet way. It starts off smooth but has lots of hops that hit the taste buds after the caramel. Know what it tastes like? Sunshine.

From the brewery: "This brand-new, never-before-poured spring offering to the ancient deities of sunshine and blue sky is a rich and malty smooth-drinking amber lager sensation that makes the season sing."

Jim Pollock, of rock poster fame, designed the beautiful label.

Please go to the website and view the little video promo. So. Adorable. It reminds me of being a kid and watching those great stop motion Christmas movies only this one has a pixie with wings and daisies.

morel journal

2010-05-13T13:22:00.001-07:00

The journals I carry with me are full of reviews, quotes, wines to remember after I have had too many glasses and memories. I think I will add this one to my collection because it fits me perfectly. I found it on Etsy here.

I love reading up on morels on this great site, Thegreatmorel.com, that is chock full of everything morel. From hunting to recipes this site has it all about the ever-elusive mushroom.

giddy in the garden

2010-05-10T15:15:00.000-07:00

I walk out to my garden 3 times a day. I check on it, water it, talk to it and stare at it. It is a thing of beauty that changes every day. We have a relationship, the garden and I. It is symbiotic. I nurture it and it feeds me. The nurturing of the garden feeds more than my body, however. I have found that it is feeding my soul. Veggies fresh picked and still warm from the sun taste better than any I have ever tasted. They taste better too knowing that I can grow them.

I found this quote today and it made me think of my garden.

The greatest delight the fields and woods minister is the suggestion of an occult relation between man and the vegetable. I am not alone and unacknowledged. They nod to me and I to them. ~Ralph Waldo Emerson

Now I must go check on it.

Farm Burger but more about the market salad

2010-05-09T14:52:00.000-07:00

I can't count the number of times I have headed to Farm Burger since it opened. There is a line out of the door no matter what time I show up and I mean that in a good way. The crowd is always happily waiting, knowing that good food is prepared to order with fresh, local ingredients. On this particular Sunday I arrived at around 1:30 and stood in line for about 15 minutes. In that time I was able to fully read the menu, make some friends and read the fresh ingredients from the chalk board stand. The atmosphere is electric. There is action in the kitchen and there is a convivial hunger from the crowd. Tables are rustic with forks and knives in jelly jars and food arrives (promptly) in metal baskets after orders are placed. Your baskets sit on craft paper place mats with a simple Farm Burger stamp.

The first thing I saw on the menu of the day was fiddleheads. Fiddleheads! My market salad arrived and I gazed a while. Really. It was beautiful and simple and like nothing I had ever seen alongside burgers. It was lovingly composed of Moore's Farm mixed greens, local, sustainably grown green's I can order online and pick up at many convenient locations. Mixed into the greens were easter egg radishes that were crunchy, fresh and peppery. Most of the veggies come from Full Moon Farms, a community supported byodynamic farm or Dillwood Farms in Loganville. The cauliflower was out of this world tasty and fresh. I am not sure how they were marinated (maybe turmeric) but they were not ordinary and they were a terrific compliment to the dates sprinkled about. Slices of carrot rested on the top along with the star of the salad, braised celery. That's right, braised celery. Celery is usually an afterthought in salad, something extra for crunch, because it is in the fridge. Check out this blog about braising celery. My thoughts exactly. On top of it all was a grainy mustard vinaigrette (you could also choose farm Goddess dressing), Parmesan cheese and crunchy, perfect fiddleheads. Every bite was different, complex and savory.

Oh yeah, I had a burger too. The buns were soft, warm and held up. Meat is locally sourced and house ground. I ordered mine with house cured bacon and couldn't get over how thick, smoky and flavorful it was. In short, a tasty burger that i felt good about eating. Sustainability is a mission here and they even focus on materials they use to serve and wrap their products. Fries were hand cut and tasted like the ones I make at home. Onion rings are crispy and beer battered. They come with a paprika mayo that i did not try. I don't really do mayo unless it's hidden but others seemed to really like it. This is a complete aside, as it may pertain only to me, but I don't usually feel that great after eating a burger. Burger remorse is what I call it. It never came that Sunday nor the morning after. Is it the fresh, locally raised beef that is grass fed without hormones prepared thoughtfully?

Artazu Artazuri Garnacha Navarra 2007

2010-05-06T10:46:00.000-07:00

Lots of bang for your buck from this find by importer Eric Solomon. This Spanish garnacha goes with just about anything I have tried. Chicken off the grill, pasta with vodka sauce, even spicy poblano sauce. What a gem. It's funny reading other wine reviews about this wine. Some taste plums, blackberries, raspberries, even strawberries. It is definitely fruit forward but inky, oaky and with a mineral essence. I taste cherries, smoky cherries like the cherry tobacco my uncle used to smoke. I also read a review that noted it's friendliness. It's not much for conversation, but we are definitely friends.

edible butterflies

2010-05-04T14:04:00.001-07:00

Formulating plans in my head for baby showers and wedding showers that start popping up this time of you, I came across these delightfully realistic and EDIBLE butterflies. I want to throw a theme party around them, they are so lovely. A designer on Etsy called SugarRobot makes them and I am placing an order today.Check out the peacock feathers.

King of Pops

2010-05-03T09:57:00.000-07:00

I have been hearing so much about The King of Pops handmade popsicles that I ventured to the adorable Irwin Street Market to try one. My mouth began watering as I read the flavors tangerine basil, grapefruit mint... I don't know what I expected, but I wasn't expecting flavors in my wheel house. I tried the grapefruit mint and it knocked my socks off (well, I was wearing flip flops). It tasted like grapefruit and mint. It didn't taste like a version of grapefruit and mint. It tasted just like eating the citrusy tart fruit only it was refreshingly cold and didn't spray at me as my spoon hit its fleshy parts.

Reading up on creator, Steven Carse, made me smile as much as the popsicle did. The popsicles are handcrafted, emphasizing natural, local and organic ingredients. In addition to the Irwin Street Market, the popsicles can be found at Souper Jenny's and a cart at the corner of Highland and North Ave. Steven is the nicest guy. I watched him work in the kitchen and was truly amazed by his one man show creating such a delicacy.

Some of his flavors: Grapefruit Mint
Lime w/ fresh squeezed cane juice
Pineapple Ginger
Strawberry Margarita
green apple lemonade (I think there was a mix-up with this because it tasted like apple pie)
tangerine basil
chocolate seasalt
grapefruit mint (my favorite)
mango mojito (fleshy bits of stringy mango-in a good way- and lots of mint)
blackberry lemongrass
strawberries and cream (fresh bits of strawberry)
Strawberry Orange
honeydew watermelon
Hibiscus
lemon lavender
Mexican chocolate
watermelon blueberry

My face is red

2010-05-02T10:19:00.000-07:00

My face is red...because I just got slapped! My son slapped me (lightly) after I asked his review of his first bite of Chocolate Slap Yo Mama ice cream from Jake's Ice Cream. He didn't come up for air until there was nothing left. I couldn't wait to try the strawberry rhubarb piescream. It was sweet, light and had big pieces of frozen rhubarb and strawberries throughout along with graham cracker crumbs. The crumbs added a perfect texture that made my bowl seem more like a dessert than just a scoop of ice cream. We also tried the red velvet, a surprisingly perfect imitation of a cupcake. It tasted like a cupcake with buttery icing but was cool and refreshing like ice cream. sold.

The Irwin Street Market was a delightful spot, as I had hoped. It is brimming with hope and possibility and filled with locally made foods and gifts. Can't wait to try more flavors, cannolis, coffee, Candi's breakfast.... on my next visit.

Quintessential Chocolates

2010-05-02T10:03:00.000-07:00

I love pulling into my driveway to find a package at the door. Today there was a big brown box awaiting me. Inside, deep inside, was a mylar insulated package which revealed yet another package. Chocolate! This unexpected gift came from Quintessential Chocolates out of Fredericksburg Texas. Lecia Duke,a former architect and graphic designer founded Quintessential Chocolates in Nashville, Tennessee in 1984 after apprenticing under a Swiss master-chocolatier to learn the almost-lost confectionery art form known as liqueur praline (sugar crust). Duke has made liquid-center chocolates with over 150 storied beverages including Frangelico, Amaretto, Crown Royal, Crème de Menthe, Hennessy Cognac, various Kentucky Bourbons, Tequila, and Tennessee Whiskey plus wines of the world including Champagne, Bordeaux, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and Port. I read a bit about the process of forming a capsule of cornstarch to house the liquid and the process of enrobing it in chocolate. Fascinating.

The California cabernet was mellow but not overly flavored with the wine (which I would have preferred). The chocolate has just the right amount of richness to blend with the filling but not be too overbearing. I learned a valuable lesson with this first one; take one bite unless you want liquid running down your chin.

The Tennessee whiskey packed a punch. It was an explosion of newly distilled whiskey that ended with the crunch of crystallized sugars. She has really put her knowledge of architecture to use. The liquid centers of the chocolates are unmolested by sugars or additives and enter your mouth in their purest form. I have tasted many liquor filled chocolates but never like this. I may need to call up Ethel M and compare for comparison.

My favorite so far is the Tawny Port. Its smoothness compliments the rich, dark chocolate perfectly.

JCT Kitchen lunch

2010-04-27T10:35:00.000-07:00

(Photos by Thomas James Photography & Video Productions)
On a very wet and dreary day a trio of foodies sought refuge in a self described southern bistro. Out of the rain and into the impeccably designed space of JCT Kitchen we were refreshed and renewed and ready to have our palates awakened by chef Ford Fry and Chef de Cuisine Brian Horn. As always, nothing was amiss. Food, service and atmosphere did not disappoint.

Sharing all of our dishes allowed us to experience more flavors. Family style is the way to go especially in a bistro serving traditional southern food (with flare). First up, JCT salad-romaine, green beans, spiced pecans and apples. This is usually served with a buttermilk dressing, but I opted for a lighter vinaigrette which enhances the flavors more. I was already aware that JCT makes every effort to acquire fresh from the farm ingredients that are local and my first fresh bite proved as much. Enter a glass of St. Supery Sauvingnon Blanc and the salad reached new heights. Napa Valley St. Supery is crisp, velvety (how can it be both? dunno but it is)and a go to wine for salads and spicy food. It is very fruit forward, zero oak. I always taste something different with this wine; Sometimes pear, sometimes apple and always mineral notes (which I love). There is a scent/taste (you know, when you taste a smell or smell a taste) that is floral, grassy. Tastes of outside like honeysuckle off the vine.

We also tried the Shrimp and Avocado salad with fresh Georgia white shrimp. This was a perfectly composed salad of bibb lettuce and fresh herbs, shrimp, avocados and a lemony vinaigrette. The shrimp were incredibly fresh, perfectly grilled and popping with flavor. About this time Ford came to our table to see how our food tasted. He really is a nice guy. He cooks great food, creates great restaurants, supports local farms AND he is a good guy. We only wished Brian Horn had been around today so we could say hi.

Pimento cheese toast came next and we all agreed that this was a hearty serving. The table was silent as we feasted on the thick toast piled high with perfect pimento cheese and fresh arugula. Were those shaved sunchokes on top? I saved a few pieces of my bread for what was next.

I have heard a lot about the angry mussels at JCT but I have never ordered them until now. I knew that Ford sourced his bacon from Alan Benton and that alone meant it would be delicious. The bacon is house cured and perfect alone but in a sea of serrano chiles and the juice of the mussels it melts in your mouth. The mussels were great, fresh, not overdone but what I really remember is the smoky bacony-serrano sauce that we sopped up with the crusty, rustic bread. When our server took away the bowl there was not a drop left.

We headed out the door with a lemonhead in hand to face the dreary day with full bellies and happy taste buds.

rhubarb

2010-04-24T05:36:00.000-07:00

I am craving rhubarb. "Rhubarb," such a funny word. I decided to read about it. Details about rhubarb have been recorded since ancient China (2700 B.C.). In ancient times it was used medicinally for its purgative effects as well as aiding in digestion and improving appetite. By the 18th century, it was grown for culinary purposes in Europe and the U.S.

Rhubarb is a perennial with large fleshy rhyzomes. It has large leaves with long thick stalks called petioles. It is rich in vitamin c and dietary fiber.

This is all good and interesting, but for me rhubarb tastes like summertime. Hot? Thirsty? Tear off a huge stalk of rhubarb and you are instantly rewarded with a tart, juicy snack. Sure you can make it into pie, jam, jelly or even a cocktail but the best part is straight off the bush.

There is a great recipe for rhubarb pie in Jannette Haase's book "From Seed to Table":

Fresh Rhubarb Pie
Servings: 6-8

2 9” pie crusts
6-8 cups chopped fresh rhubarb
1 ½ cups sugar
½ cup flour
1 tsp grated orange rind
2 eggs

Preheat oven to 425 F (220 C). In a large bowl, mix together rhubarb, flour, sugar, orange rind and eggs. Place in one pie shell and cover with the other. Seal the edges and brush with butter if you wish. Bake for 10 minutes and then reduce heat to 350 F (175 C) and bake for another 20-25 minutes or until pastry is golden. The moisture content of rhubarb depends upon the amount of rain it’s had, sometimes the pie can be quite runny but the juices are delicious so I never worry about it.

My craving came out in a quick chat to Jake Rothchild of Jake's Ice Cream. He said "would you be open to a combo of strawberry/rhubarb?" Sounds good. I said "do you think it will need something for texture? Graham cracker crumbs, perhaps?" He said "are you thinking what I'm thinking? StrawberryRhubarb Piescream?" And then he made it. I will be heading down to Jake's at Irwin Street Market to try some summertime. I am hoping it will taste like my youth which is what I fear I am craving more than rhubarb. I scream, you scream, we all scream for piescream!

chicken with roasted poblano-cilantro cream

2010-04-22T07:45:00.001-07:00

What is for dinner tonight---Chicken with roasted poblano-cilantro cream sauce. I'll get the cilantro fresh from the garden but there are not any peppers yet. I woke up with this craving for poblano cream and need to make it happen. Hoping to find some early sweet corn to top a microgreen salad from the garden. Seasonal fruit, sauvignon blanc and the patio will round it out.

what is a weed?

2010-04-21T09:23:00.000-07:00

"What is a weed? A plant whose virtues have not yet been discovered."

~Ralph Waldo Emerson

I ran across this quote in my journal and it reminded me of a day when I saw a roadside filled with cornflowers (chicory) on a morning excursion only to have it mowed down by late afternoon when I drove by again. Mowed down because they are weeds. But what if cornflowers are not weeds to me? What if they are the loveliest of flowers, the color of my favorite crayon in the box of 64?

How can they be considered weeds when they are the essence of delicious Community Coffee? Chicory (Cichorium intybus) frissee is a spicy addition to a salad as well.

Another roadside beauty is Queen Anne's lace, often mowed over without thought. I love that it has such an in interesting history to it's nomenclature. As a little girl, I always thought it was named after a fancy queen who wore lacy dresses and once pricked her finger on a thorn, dripping a drop of blood on the flower. She was so very special that from that day on, all the flowers grew with a red dot in the center. When I googled it seems there are many stories.

Queen Anne's Lace is not only beautiful, it is tasty and good for you. Also called wild carrot, it's root tastes like...wait for it... a carrot. They can be eaten as any root vegetable or in soup and are packed with vitamin A1, B1 and B2. The flowers can be fried for a tasty, pretty treat. It can even be made into a delicious jelly.

Dandelions are often viewed as a noxious weed by some and an endless source of outdoor entertainment by others (who hasn't made a wish on a dandelion?) Who knew they are a tasty and healthful salad green nutritiously filled with vitamins A &C, iron, and more calcium than spinach. They are commonly used as a salad green, but can also be braised, stewed, and sauteed. This much maligned "weed" has edible roots, flowers and greens.

I could go on and on. Wood violets--love to place them on top of the buttercream icing of a chocolate cupcake. So pretty.

Sweet peas, chickweed, day lilies, purslane, clover... The terms "beautiful flower" or "noxious weed" are subjective points of view imposed on plants. I try to stay clear of the good or evil outlook and instead seek out the positive. Caterpillar? Butterfly? Come have a salad with me. I won't judge you or the ingredients.

Cochon 555 atlanta

2010-04-19T13:42:00.000-07:00

( photos by Thomas James Photography)

I hummed Pink Floyd all afternoon.

I had the privilege of attending Cochon 555 in Atlanta this weekend and I am still dreaming of the flavors created by the invited chefs and wineries. Cochon 555 is the brainchild of event planners Brady Lowe and Carolina Uribe. This coast to coast 10 city tour invites 5 chefs who are supporters of local food and who support the heritage breed. Pigs are locally sourced from sustainable heritage breeds. Need to brush up on what "heritage breed pig" means? Click here for a great article describing heritage breeds as a rough equivalent to organic. Brady hopes this tour's purpose will be "building new relationships between chef and farmers." Along with the 5 chefs and 5 pigs are five wineries that are family owned.

I arrived at the swanky W hotel in Buckhead at 3:30 for the VIP "meat and greet" held on the 16th floor pool area. First stop, a 2006 Evenstad Reserve from Domaine Serene. This Willamette Valley Pinot Noir was smooth and round with notes of spice, berries/cherries and cedar had a long finish and was perfect with pork. BLT Steak had a beautiful offering of super fresh bluepoint and greenpoint oysters that tasted of the sea. Next was a stunning array of cheeses and accompaniments, notably Emily G's jams. The light shown most brightly on a mason jar filled with perfect slices of Benton's bacon. My first pork of the event and it was perfect!

After a chat with the affable Mr. Lowe I ventured out into the sun to see the butchering demonstration. We watched the talented knife skills of chef Craig Deihl of Cypress break down an entire guinea hog for charcuterie. I had a few more oysters, another glass of Domaine Serene and another slice of lamb salumi before we headed down to the 4th flour for the competition.

The lowdown on Cochon 555:
5 of the best regional chefs, each with a 125 heritage breed pig
5 family wineries join to showcase their wine
foodies, food critic, fellow chefs and bloggers indulge
guests and 20 professional judges determine the winner based on presentation, utilization and best flavor

I rode the elevator with a writer, photographer and cheese trays. We were all having such a fun experience and we had not yet entered the competition. On our way, I was thrilled to run into Taste network's Carolina Uribe and talk a little about the event and its vision. The 4th floor space was industrial-spacious with open ceilings, cement floors, sunlight streaming in from three sides. I reached for a glass for wine tasting and delighted in seeing tiny piglets in each one. It's the simple things.

I chose a 2006 Columbia Rediviva of the Stones from Buty Winery from the Walla Walla Valley. This cabernet syrah blend, much to my liking, was dominated by syrah. It was earthy and like the description, sensuous. I tended to go back to this spot throughout the evening. I began my quest for pork, where some chefs offered one choice and others offered 13.

Kelly English (“2009 Best New Chef” by Food & Wine Magazine) of Restaurant Iris in Memphis smoked a Gloucestershire Old Spots breed from Freckle Face Farm in AR for 24 hours and created 700 banh mi tamales. What a fantastic start. The tamale, topped with coleslaw and pork cracklins was spicy, smoky and a mix of Asian and Mexican flavors.

I made my way over to Mike Lata of FIG restaurant in Charleston. His food is ridiculously delicious, sustainable, locally acquired and seasonal. I'll admit I have created a weekend vacation around reservations on more than one occasion. He's also a really cool guy. Lata presented 10 cohesive offerings from his Tamworth breed from Keegan-Filion Farm in SC. Nestled among the sunflowers were the following dishes: Banh mi pickled ramps, headcheese and liver pate; corn hogs with rhubarb ketchup (presented in lovely paper cones), boudin blnc chow chow, pork skin "ala parmegianno" polenta, bbq ribs with coleslaw, pork belly with watermelon pickles, crispy trotters gribiche, lard crackers (pig shaped even!) with pimento cheese, porchetta tonnato and bourbon lard caramels. You could really see and taste the amount of effort and creativity that went into this oblation of pork. My favorite was the crispy pork trotter and I could have eaten 10. Lata said that he expected this to be the next trend in food. His diners love them. I visited Lata's space many times for another pimento cheese and another bourbon lard caramel. Praise the lard, those were delicious.

Next to Lata's area was the Hirsch Vineyards tasting. The lovely Jasmine Hirsch poured me a glass of Bohan Dillon “Family Blend” Pinot Noir. This smoky, tobacco tasting wine really brought out the flavors in my next couple of dishes.

Todd Mussman of Muss and Turner's serves food that is always fresh and local. I like his restaurant because I can go in jeans and flip flops and have amazing seasonal food and an incredible wine without any fuss. Todd had a Yorkshire hog from Gumcreek Farms in GA. You could smell the smoky pork from a distance and that is what drew me over to him. Todd handed me his "entire pig in a bowl" which was smoked roasted porchetta over smoked pork consomme with bitter herb salad and ham jerky. It was delicious, smoky, satisfying.

We headed back towards Hirsch Vineyards for the wine and also so my companion could talk with Jasmine again. I stopped at the Anne Amie Vinyards table for another pinot. Boyd Pearson poured me a glass of the 2007 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. It was dense, heady, mushroomy, herby and complimented the smoky meat perfectly. I would quickly be back for another glass.

My next stop was with last year's prince of porc Kevin Rathbun of Rathbun's and Rathbun Steak. He looks amazing by the way. Kevin had a Berkshire hog from Riverview Farms in GA. My first bite/slurp was a steamed pork dumpling in 5 spice consomme. Meh. It was good, but simple compared to dishes I have eaten at Rathbun's. I then took a bite of the pork belly flan. Others around me were a little hesitant, saying that they do not like the consistency of flan and can't imagine it with meat. When I say this was mouth-watering goodness, it is an understatement. My palate was awakened by a combination of flavors it had never experienced. Like a fine wine, I rolled the flan around on my tongue. It was smooth, smoky, with notes of cherry, chocolate and had a nuttiness i later found to be candied cashews. This was my favorite dish of the event. Hands down.

Meanwhile, Ryan Farr of 4505 Meats San Francisco held everyone's amazement as he broke down an entire hog neatly. I couldn't help but hum Weird Al Yankovich's "Like a surgeon."

Moving over to Sean Brock's station, I was in awe. Artfully settled before me on straw were 13 treats. Sean comes from McCrady's restaurant in Charleston, a favorite of mine not just because they are ecologically sensitive (check out their recycling, local and sustainable, but because Sean's food is delectable. Sean chose an Ossabaw/berkshire cross from Ecofriendly Foods in VA. and turned out such creative dishes that they were disappearing as they were laid out. I stood next to chef Kevin Gillespie and wanted to chat with him more, but really wanted to lay my hands on Sean's bites. First off, I had the pork fried funnel cake with pork lard sugar. Have I said "praise the lard" already? Well, can I get an amen? Next, a "noodle" bowl where the noodles were made from pork skin cut very thin. The johnny cakes topped with braised bacon, a quail egg and whipped sorghum were a hot ticket. I heard from a judge or two that liked this the best.
He had pickled red hot sausage, an incredible coppa pastrami with secret sauce, bibb letttuce and pumpernickel, a creamy pork liver over soup, chicharrones even. I loved the pastrami, but my favorite was actually the garden radishes with braised fatback wrapped on a stick. It was farm to table and to my mouth.

To say that I was satiated at this point would be an understatement, but wait, there's more. Guest chef Nick Melvin of Parish rolled through the crowd with an entire roasted pig that had been injected with 12 pounds of hamhock butter. Sandwich bread and sauce was provided and as he began chopping the crowd dug in. Parish is a staple for me and I inched closer for a bite. Much to my delight, Nick picked up "the best part," dipped it in sauce and hand fed it to me. Incredibly good.

The event came to a close with a presentation of gifts and bourbon to the 5 chefs. Guests were treated to Benton's bacon brittle with chocolate covered chicharrones. I think I will dream of this sweet and savory concoction for quite a while. We waited anxiously for the prince of porc announcement and the winner was...Sean Brock. Sean gave a touching thank-you speech and held his trophy high. His prince status enables him to compete in the Aspen Food and Wine Classic on June 2oth where someone will be crowned King or Queen of Porc.

On to the afterparty.....

Cochon 555 Upcoming dates:
4/24 Des Moines IA
5/2 Washington DC
5/16 Portland
5/23 Seattle
6/6 San Francisco
6/6 Aspen Food and Wine Classic

Bording Pass Shiraz

2010-04-19T05:16:00.000-07:00

Not only did the whimsical packaging entice me to impulse buy this wine, but the little review taped to the bin read "...and notes of bacon or smoked meat." It's on. How could a libation have a great review with a bouquet of blueberries AND bacon? I was intrigued to say the least.

I was a little leery to open such a gimmicky wine and expected it to be a victim of great packaging per usual. The first pour revealed a dense, almost inky red color. I did faintly smell the roasted meat scent I read in a preview. Interesting.

The wine was delicious and layered with jammy bacony flavor. It just doesn't sound right to write that, but it worked. The finish was short but as I sipped, I got more mineral notes (which I love) and even cocoa. It contains 5% Viognier which gave its density a floral lift.

Farm to Table at JCT Kitchen

2010-04-16T13:09:00.000-07:00

I jumped at the chance to attend JCT Kitchen's Farm to Table & Back dinner for so many reasons. JCT has a commitment to fresh, seasonal, local ingredients that are whipped up European style with southern flare. The dining room is so very pretty, upscale and down home at the same time. 100% of the proceeds of this dinner were to benefit Georgia Organics, an organization that is trying to integrate healthy, sustainable and local food into the mouths of Georgians. If that is not reason enough, Hugh Acheson, four-time James Beard Best Chef Southeast finalist and chef/partner of 5&10, The National and Gosford Wine in Athens was the guest chef for the evening.

My dinner companion and I were greeted and seated in a cozy candlelit table next to a table with a writer and companion working on a review for a local paper.It was entertaining to talk with them because they had so many food aversions but were still terribly excited by the food. Chef Ford Fry came by to welcome us and thank us for giving to a cause that is near and dear to his heart.
We were given the gorgeous menu reminiscent of the elegantly rustic promo. The table next to us said "ooh pretty!" and talked about the font for a while. Our beautiful taste arrived an we stared. A luscious, plump Brunswick ruby red shrimp nestled in buttermilk dressing with chopped celery, micro greens and UGA caviar left a lingering impression on my palate. I loved my first bit of this sustainable caviar, but the celery was the ingredient that rounded out the dish for me. Such a simple, overlooked ingredient made this dish come alive for me.

Next was She crab soup with sherry and hard boiled egg served with a glass of Frogtown MRV 2006. This rhone blend was softly layered with notes of pear and honeysuckle and perfectly complimented the soup. THE SOUP! I will order she crab soup if ever it is on a menu and I can honestly say this was the best I have ever had. It was so full of sweet crab that I could have eaten most with a fork. This was my favorite moment of the evening.

The second course arrived with a La Craie Vouvray. Coming off of my she crab high I was presented with beets--happy, happy girl. This roasted carrot and beet salad with feta was so simple with pulled together freshness. The cumin vinaigrette gave it added zing and punch. The Loire vouvray was fresh, young and had a minerally crispness; a perfect compliment. The apricot aroma was what I was commenting on just as the evening's chef, Hugh Acheson arrived at our table. His enthusiasm for the evening, the food and the mission was intoxicating. We held his charming company at our table as long as we could. We chatted about our meal and his upcoming venture Empire State South. I am brushing up on my bocce ball for the opening in August. Word on the street is that Parish chef, Nick Melvin will be chef de cuisine. What an amazing duo they will be.

A 2007 Girasol Cabernet arrived to head off our third course. This was a big cab that lusciously delivered toasty oak, cassis, hints of chocolate and lingering cherry notes. It was a pleasant surprise alongside the smothered pork chops over grits with morels and ramps. I like to pair cabernets with pork. Who says pork goes better with a pinot? The pork chops were good. Don't get me wrong, the chops were gorgeous and perfectly seared, but the stars of this dish were the morels and ramps. They admirably highlighted the beneficiary of this dinner, Georgia Organics. Nothing beats fresh seasonal ingredients for sublime taste as well as a connection to the earth.

We finished our meal with a lovely Mrs. Dulls shortcake with a spring fruit compote and whipped cream. Being a transplanted southerner, I had to look up Mrs. Dulls. Henrietta Dull had a popular cooking column in the Atlanta Journal Constitution where she created authentic dishes in a traditional style. She was so popular that her recipes were compiled into a cookbook with menus to boot. She died in 1964 at the age of 100. The AJC said her book was "the standard by which regional cooks have been measured since 1928." Wish I had known all of this while I was enjoying the shortcakes, for I think they would have tasted even better. Our cheers to a great evening came by way of a Castelier cava from Spain. A perfect ending to a perfect dinner.

The next Farm to Table and Back dinner at JCT Kitchen is July 15th with guest chef Chris Hastings of the Hot and Hot Fish Club in Birmingham. I will see you there!

*photos from Melissa Libby

Release the Kraken!

2010-04-15T09:25:00.000-07:00

I saw this rum at the local liquor store. Not only does it have a delicious review, but it shouts out for a theme party to celebrate it. I love the illustration on the label and the Victorian era bottle. How can you not drink from a bottle that says “As seen through the eyes of imagination?" Look at these pretty plates and cups from Anthropologie that could accentuate the table.

What to serve? Calamari?

What to wear? Pirate gear or homoerotic Clash of the Titans togas?

Irwin Street Market

2010-04-14T10:44:00.000-07:00

A brilliant concept from innovator, Jake Rothchild is in town. I have yet to check out The Irwin Street Market, but I will this weekend. I love the concept of being an incubator of sorts and allowing start up creations to blossom. This is a gift to our city. Someone's passion or hobby can turn into a full-time job or business with the help of the market and it's community kitchen. I just listened to his interview on gravity free radio. I loved how excited he got about losing one of the popular vendors because they "graduated" and made it to the big leagues. Jake is lovely.

I remember how a few years ago he created a special ice cream for my son's birthday party at Jake's. "Funky Monkey" was a delicious treat but also a very special gift for my boy.

Had to throw in a photo of the monkey cake I made. His "hair" was made of individually placed chocolate jimmies. The chocolates were monkeys-in-a-barrel that linked together. I only had one mold so I was making monkeys for days.

concrete to cauliflower

2010-04-14T05:34:00.000-07:00

When I read today's article in the AJC about the new Edible garden at The Atlanta Botanical Garden, my head began humming Joni Mitchell. "They paved paradise and put up a parking lot..." Essentially, the Botanical Garden is a tree museum but this museum took a parking lot and returned it to nature, paradise if you will. Visitors will now be able to see food in it's natural state. We have become so disconnected from our food. If you have ever seen Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution, you have witnessed school-aged children unable to name fruits and vegetables. I'm not talking about rutabagas or durian, but tomatoes. Tomatoes! Kids could not identify tomatoes.

The new garden opens Saturday, May 1. There will be a visitors’ parade across the Canopy Walk, led appropriately by Atlanta’s Seed and Feed Marching Abominable. Who better to usher in the slow food movement at our beloved garden? My membership has expired but I plan to renew it today out of love and respect for a great idea. Soon local chefs with a love and respect for local, sustainable foods will show us the farm to table way, chefs like Linton Hopkins, Kevin Gillespie, Hugh Acheson, Billy Allin, Ann Quatrano, Clifford Harrison, Scott Serpas, Jay Swift, Shane Touhy, Todd Mussman, Ford Fry and Nick Melvin to name a few.

Let's hope schools start making plans for field trips for hands-on learning. First stop, tomatoes.

*field bag can be found on Etsy here.

Reader's Choice

2010-04-12T14:54:00.000-07:00

Vote now for your favorite spots in Atlanta in The Sunday Paper's readers Choice Awards. Click here to vote. My picks were pretty easy.]

best overall: Ecco, Woodfire grill (tie)

best new restaurant: Empire State South (I'm betting on it)

BEST LOCAL CHEF: Kevin Gillespie, Hector Santiago (tie)

BEST WAIT STAFF: La Tavola

BEST BARBECUE: Fatt Matt's

BEST PUB FOOD: The Porter

BEST SEAFOOD: Oceanaire

BEST SOUTHERN: South City Kitchen

BEST SANDWICH SHOP: Alon's

BEST BRUNCH: Parish

BEST DESSERT: flourless chocolate cake with olive oil and sea salt-La Tavola

BEST BLOODY MARY: Front Page News

BEST WINE LIST: Ecco

BEST ICE CREAM: Jakes

BEST RECESSION-FRIENDLY CHEAP EATS: El Taco

BEST BEER SELECTION: Brickstore

BEST PIZZA: Antico

BEST TAPAS: Pura Vida

BEST BARTENDER: Hadi Joyce, Wisteria

BEST PATIO: Six feet Under (rooftop, but patio nonetheless)

Threadhead upcycle party

2010-04-11T12:50:00.000-07:00

The coolest gathering happened this weekend. The underground group known as The Threadheads took the daily posturing to a new level with an assignment involving more than mere words and photographs. This time we were given the task of finding a piece of art at a thrift store and creating a new piece from it. Knowing our group, said piece would be a bit twisted. The art turned out amazing! From this we realized that just as we love each other through endless email banter on the thread site, we like each other in person as well.

So I guess there is truth to the book Consequential Strangers which poses that the people in your life who are sort of supporting characters are actually crucial to your happiness. It is because they keep you grounded by offering unbiased advice and comfort. Consequential strangers are part of our continuum of relationships, of mutual give-and-take that affects the quality of our life.

2010-04-09T06:45:00.000-07:00

(spoons can be found on Etsy here)

Garden is planted. Farm to table is more than just talk now it's what's for dinner! We'll see how this goes. In the garden: many varieties of tomatoes, red peppers, jalapeno peppers, habanero peppers (why? really I find them too hot), red beets, shorty carrots, cucumbers, leeks, rosemary, thyme (parsley and sage needed here), lavender, chamomile, basil, cilantro (or coriander, call it what you wish). Nearby we have two types of raspberries, blackberries and blueberries. Couldn't find a bacon bush. Anyone have one?

find a beautiful place and get lost

2010-04-04T13:30:00.000-07:00

This beautiful screen print from slidesideways inspired me while perusing Etsy. Get lost is what I did. Without worries, cares, appointments or hesitations I got lost in wonder and beauty. I walked in the woods with the eyes of a child and felt grateful for the beauty of spring. I highly recommend reconnecting to the world like this.

Right here in Atlanta spring is bursting. It only looks like this for a while. Go get lost somewhere.

wine to my door

2010-04-02T06:50:00.000-07:00

I am placing my order for free wine from my wines direct and am giddy! I sent a case of wine as a birthday present and received a thank-you gift card from the company with free shipping included. I instinctively "liked it" ala facebook when I opened the envelope.

patio season

2010-03-27T07:02:00.000-07:00

Let patio season begin! Whenever I think of moving from the south, patio dining pulls me back. Dining al fresco is a treat, even during the other season in the south-pollen season. I love that Open Table now has a listing for outdoor dining.

Onto my patio. After the arduous task of removing the chartreuse pollen from my space, it is ready for plants, twinkling lights and friends. Cheers to patio season!

Farm to Table event at JCT Kitchen

2010-03-20T14:36:00.000-07:00

Don't procrastinate finishing your taxes! James Beard finalist Hugh Acheson will be the guest chef at JCT Kitchen on Thursday, April 15th. The menu looks incredible. We already know how fabulous the chef is with regional cuisine and the entire portion of the proceeds goes to Georgia Organics. It's a win-win-win situation. The ambiance of Ford Fry's JCT Kitchen, the innovative comfort food of Hugh Acheson and money going towards sustainability and locally grown foods. I've already booked my table.

Scoutmob

2010-03-13T06:06:00.000-08:00

I have been scoutmobbing all over town. This is one of my favorite new Apps. The deals are so good that I feel guilty using the codes in restaurants. Most of the deals I have acquired have been from spots I would visit regardless of coupons or deals. No keeping up with coupons, no wasted paper. Click here to get the app. Remember to tip your server on the pre-deal amount.

sommelier led wine pairings

2010-02-15T08:26:00.000-08:00

Love the owner of tasteatlanta. Talked with Brad in depth about wine parings recently. I have not attended one of his wine tastings before, but I am going to set one up for a fun gathering of friends. His passion for pairing lights up his eyes when he speaks. We talked of terroir, rocks, earth, leather, pepper, chalk with delight while my table mate rolled his eyes. He chose a wine that I would love based on my palate and it's lack of love for vanillay wine. His choice? Spot on.

martini

2010-02-12T17:07:00.000-08:00

Up, Dry, a lil dirty, two olives please. Who has the best martini in Atlanta?

Palomitapapa addiction

2010-01-11T09:48:00.000-08:00

When the description says it "defies expectations," it does. I have an unhealthy addiction to Sahagun's Palomitapapa pieces with exploded corn. Dark, rich, handmade chocolate with pieces of exploded corn, ground chile japones and a dusting of O Prado Fino sea salt. Elizabeth Montes gets the japones from her father's garden.

I love The Meadow for trying new chocolates or different varieties of salt but mostly I love the site for these. Try one just once, I dare you.

frasier fir

2010-01-02T09:42:00.000-08:00

I keep Thymes in business with my love for their frasier fir candle. I burn the woodsy scent year-long. Nothing beats the scent of the forest. If only I could have moss under my feet to go with. The really nice thing about these candles is after you have used up the wax, you are left with a beautiful holder for a new candle. I put mine in the freezer to release the wax and then plop in the dishwasher.

Emerson Inspiration

2010-01-01T10:31:00.000-08:00

A new blog for a new life. A new mantra to live by. I want to laugh and enjoy, find the best in others and leave the world a bit better. Can we do this by gathering and enjoying good food? Perhaps. I see and feel the passion most chefs have for food. You can taste it. I want to be more connected to the earth and others by buying locally and supporting local businesses. As much as I can, I want to be a part of the farm to table movement. So here I go in my own little way.

I chose "fiddlehead foraging" because of the fleeting nature that is fiddlehead season. Those who love them wait for those brief couple of weeks when their tender fronds shoot up giving us their unique, nutty flavor until the fronds begin to unfurl. Sometimes it's those seasons that allow is to live in the moment and be closer to nature. Maybe it is the wait that makes them taste so good.

I'll share my journey here as I taste life and forage for chance encounters with food, people and moments.